4g61t.org

The .60 is the standard ratio for an E cover, 3" inlet, 2" outlet. I would assume the turbine housing is a .63 t3 housing, just going by the fact that its a popular turbine housing for 4cyl street turbos. The only way to find out which wheel you have is to measure the inducer and exducer by taking off the E cover.

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1989 Dodge Colt Turbo w/ 4g63t swap
1999 Ford Contour SVT

i think this is one of the standard turbos with the ceramic bearings, would i benifit to going to full ball bearings?? is it possible to get 450-475 with this blower or what?? Power on paper doesnt mean shit... But what about efficency??

Hmmm. Looks like a standard Garrett with a 4 bolt exhausr housing that's sold by AGP...








Leads me to believe you might have either a 50 trim 60 trim or a 60-1 trim T3/T04E turbocharger.

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Geoff
2013 Genesis 5.0 RSPEC
88 Mazda Turbo II- LSX7
89 2.0 Turbo Colt
13 Ducati 1199 Panigale

wow i hate people who spread false info(captain tonus)..........

the number one reason why the OLD SS autochrome shit brok was because of bracing...or the lack there of. look at this DNP manifold..it's braced on all the collectors

as someone already said, the new SS auto have good bracing. someone else metioned weight


another thing, w/o a flex sectoin on the downpipe, you will have more problems with stuff breaking....

there's alot of threads on honda-tech about this, where professional fabricators discuss the effects of heat on both SS and Mild steel. and how when SS tube is welded to Mild flange, more care must be taken(harder to get good weld penetration/longevity), but it's better because SS flanges are more prone to the effects of heat...the new SS autochrome manifolds have mild steel flanges (i think! dont quote me on that one)


bosco dont waste ur money on ball bearing turbo if you are going for big power (lag=traction)..the water lines on BB turbos such as GT35R just complicate things, are one more thing to go wrong , etc. plus, bb turbos usually don't last as long ..I'd strongly reccomend just redoing that entire turbo setup with all new everything........New manifold, DP, Turbo, piping........Thats what I did with mine and UD BETTER BELIEVE IT MADE A DIFFERENCE. I went EVOIII mani, SCM-61 i/g (i/g for simplification), and have parts for custom O2 housing (yet to make, too busy to cut fab I hate that shit). also remade hot pipe and got a new FMIC. my car went from a mirage that was disliked to one that was DESPISED

So let me get this straight. I can run any shitty-ass type of manifold I want as long as I brace it properly? I dunno. I've definitely seen "well-braced" SS Auto Chrome manifolds get ALL cracked to shit in a very short amount of time. Bracing is very important, this is not denyable, but it's not the most important thing. I think the quality of tubing, the thickness of the tuning, and the quality of the welding all play a much bigger role in the longevity of a manifold.

Also, anyone that doesn't run a flex section in their DP deserves to have problems because they are fruit and banana retarded.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

There's a lot of misinformation in here, and it's not coming from one particular person. I fabricate and engineer my own manifolds, and feel that I should chime in on some of the issues addressed and to clear up a few things.

First off, ILLICON, you need to learn what a collector is and what a runner is if you’re going to try to educate us on manifold design.

In my research, tabs welded between the head flange and runners as pictured on the DNP manifold above don't do much. Most any failed manifold fails at the collector, or log depending on the style manifold. Generally, the cracks are close to the turbo flange. In some cases the flange itself cracks completely off the manifold. Take a look at most tubular manifolds. The discoloration is much less at the head flange to about 1" out to the runner. The runners don't get too hot right out of the head; all the heat developed in a manifold is at the collector. Some companies weld a brace between the head flange and the turbo flange; seems to work. Some even bolt a brace at the turbo flange to a point on the block or motor mount, and seems to work for them too. Stainless has a very high thermal expansion coefficient and the brace needs to be designed as such to allow the manifold to expand when hot. Getting the largest piece of steel bar and welding onto the manifold is not going to get you anywhere.

The biggest problem with cheap ebay manifolds is not bracing, but the material they are made out of. A lot of sellers on ebay like to claim that their manifolds are made out of 304, or 321 stainless and that's simply not true. I have even see one guy try to say his manifold was made out of a superior 6061-T6 stainless alloy (6061 is an aluminum alloy designation.) I have repaired plenty of the common ebay manifolds: OBX, Megan Racing, SSAutochrome, Stone Mountain, etc. There's one interesting thing about them, a magnet attracts to them. Ebay manifolds are made out of a type of stainless known as martensitic. Martensitic stainless steels are commonly used to make kitchen utensils. I'm sure at one point in time everyone here bent a fork or spoon and watched it break after bending it only once or twice. Martensitic stainless is very undesirable for exhaust manifold fabrication because it can be tempered and heat treated. Every time you get that manifold hot from a WOT pull, you're further heat treating the metal and making it more brittle. Eventually the metal gets so brittle that it starts cracking from the stress of it's own expansion. Furthermore, it's a well known fact that martensitic stainless will produce a very hard and brittle zone adjacent to the weld that does crack. This becomes most apparent on cheap ebay manifolds, in many cases they crack above the weld and not directly on. Bracing a cheap ebay manifold will help reduce cracking from stress induced by turbo weight, but it will still crack from the use of less than ideal materials. Martensitic stainless steels can be identified because a magnet adheres to them. The more desirable alloys of stainless such as 304, 316, or 321 all commonly known as Austenitic stainless is not in the magnetic range, thus a magnet will not adhere to it. Very simple test.

Awesome post Nick! Thanks for clearing the air on this.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

hey retardo ^^ do you really care that much?

you are dumb clearly, the runners are individually braced for stability, and usually you place one or two support brackets on the collector/flange area, but not too many because you want that area to flex (dip shit).

and you must truly be an idiot about those not being bad metal. My friend who is a professional fabricator cuts and rewelds headers into turbo manifolds using parts from SS autochrome. and the manifolds he makes have no issues

just cause you are bad at welding doesn't mean you should blame the company

I bow to your vast internet knowledge.

You are truly retarded. You think that's a good rebuttal? You basically re-quoted what he said and then called him an idiot for saying it. You're a Grade-A tool. You've never seen his welding, you don't know what he can do as a fabricator, so STFU.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

This post had lots of great info in it, until the name-calling started. Are we in 3rd grade again guys?

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90 Eagle Summit 1.5 - Wrecked
92 Eagle Summit ES 1.6 DOHC n/a - Parts
92 Eagle Summit 1.5 - Sold
94 Talon TSi AWD Auto - Sold
90 Laser RS FWD 4G63T - Hit and totalled

Summer - 2000 Pontiac Fireturkey Trans Am LS1 A4
Winter - 2006 Honda CRV K24 5MT

It was a good thread until the guy who thought he knew everything about manifolds, metalurgy, and welding/fabricating came on and started fruit and banana shit up. I apologize for the name calling though.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

I have seen a LOT of factual information (here and elsewhere) as to why SS Autochrome is a bad company that makes shoddy products. Besides shameful personal attacks on those who speak the truth, I see no good information to the contrary.

one more swear word. one more personal attack on anyone. one more post badmouthing ANYTHING and this thread will be locked and the user posting it will be considered for banishment by the mods. lately this board has gone out of control with all the crap-talking and general misbehaviour of some of it's members. we are a NOT a dsm board. we are NOT a honda board. we are a csm board. we are better than that. let's see if we can restore our previous glory across the whole forum, not just in this one thread...

Amen! Come on guys, let's not stoop to this level. I've seen it on too many other boards and that's why I don't post on them anymore. It's simple really, if you like a complanies product then buy it, if you don't like it for some reason then don't buy it.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual