ACT clutch kit has arrived, and therefore many thanks to the ACT crew for their help in the matter.
Transmission bolt holes all tapped/cleaned, and the transmission has been bolted back in with the scattershield being put back into service at this time.
All the flywheel bolts are back to being OEM that would have come off when the ARP's went in, but the ARP's are designed for a very thick flywheel flange like the Fidanza.
With that in mind, I was able to measure remaining bolt dimensions with the bolts bottomed into the crank snout, and ARP's ala Toyota 3GTS 1" UHL (under head length), were too long.
Factory bolts are 22.5mm long for the Colt/DSM/Galant 6 bolts, and the ARPS converted to metric at 25.4mm. I did not have a stock flywheel flange to compare the ACT Streetlite flange thickness to.
Others have used the factory bolts, so this is what I did, with a proper amount of red loctite and a torque sequence of 30-60-100 ft/lbs spec is 94-101 IIRC.
A boat load of warehouse closeout goods arrived through RockAuto.com, so I have many master and slave cylinders to work with should anything go wrong with my OEM NABCO 1G replacement (1G OEM currently installed and rebuilt 1x already). 1 OEM master clutch cylinder cost more than 7 Wagner boxes, which contain 1989 5/8" NABCO Mirage/Dodge/Plymouth turbo type. They were NABCO OEM in Wagner boxes, but some are old like 2001/2 era, most newer, so if seals are of any issue, at least each unit was something like $20 CDN, so a rebuild kit isn't the end of the world to purchase at a later time. I have seen them listed for anywhere close to $100 but I'm sure can be sourced cheaper.
The whole idea behind putting the SBC plate assembly inside the shifting setup, was the help with pedal feel and get that as close to stock as possible, and SAVE the hydraulics.
Also, if the heavier flywheel nets me less time clutching in to avoid low speed stuttering (assuming not solely due to tune on larger injectors versus Denso matching the ECU better at low speeds), only time will tell.
Throttle body has been disassembled, cleaned, documented to confirm parts before they came apart - with spares beside it to help out - and then clear was applied to the bare polished aluminum.
New SKF/CR seals were installed small/large 1x each, and a new FIAV O ring was sourced and put in. To add, I tried to port some of the rough edge's are 90 degree transitions inside the idle air circuit in the main casting.
I'm not sure if it will help with flow or not, but it could not hurt in my opinion because idle has never been great and I'm sure cams and tune don't help.
Also of note, is that I confirmed a modification to the 90 DSM TB is required to fit the newer black style IAC solenoid assembly, due to contact on a spot where the casting is too thick to even allow a socket on the hex/JIS philips style screws. I purchased M5x0.8 Allen head socket screws at 16mm with lock washers and flat washers, because they would have been too long due to the thicker flange on the newer style housing, but also a 12mm might not have had enough thread to tighten the screws with any great confidence/effort and hope they don't strip. Removing the IAC bolts will never be an issue ever again - just don't forget the long hex tool!
Thinking about going back to 750 RPM, so it never wants to ramp up timing while chasing the best idle sequence. I think I am set at 800-850 like a GVR4.
There are many pictures of the transmission as it went in, and the TB as it went through the paces of rebuild, so I will finally have a complete TB rebuild thread for the first time since my pics went down with the gallery, so many years ago.
I'll upload when I have time.