You can install aftermarket shifters to the car using a combination of parts from either:
4G CSM - mix and match the guts of the two shifters assemblies, but use the 4G shifter arm (the part the knob threads onto)
2G or 1G short shifter assemblies that date back a ways
Tiburon (the whale style car)
The 4G provides a little tilt back, significantly shorter throw and has no issues with boots or reusing shifter knobs as they were identical.
Check out my build thread " SCRAT ", and see what parts I had listed for bushing replacements options using the melded 3g/4g setup.
All the bits can be had from JNZTuning.net, and or can be ordered if you are redoing the outside shifter wear items on the shifter arms on the trans top and the cable ends.
Such a better experience to feel the positive shift and you know that the rubber isn't binding when you shift, therefore more direct, when shifting faster; which I agree is pretty funny when shaving seconds off your drag times with a 4g15 from stop light to stop light, but it helps regardless.
The 02 sensor thread chaser - essentially is a weak sauce version of a tap - IE it doesn't get a close shave just like cutting the threads initially and doesn't fit deep into the peak "V" of the thread grooves? Its hard to do a visual but :
Read a bit through this thread and you will see what is meant by chasing (essentially a slightly skinnier diameter cutting area and less chance of rolling threads to start) and cutting threads right to the roughly original size or not, as is suggested by some of the guys posting.
Thread chaser - what is it? http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/ge ... ap-237679/
Thread chaser - better read with pics [http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/in ... lock.3774/
]http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/in ... lock.3774/
Thread chaser for 02 sensors -
Thread chaser but not instantly obvious the difference between a tap and chaser in this instance http://www.grumpysperformance.com/arpthreadchase.jpg
Thread tap styles for three types of tapping -
Essentially you should see how tall and sharp the peaks are on the "taps" and how short they are on the "chasers".
Restoring cross threaded holes, the most common occurrence when threads are entirely removed due to seizure with corrosion, pretty much requires tapping which is essentially giving you a portion of the thread you do want, and removing the rest as part of the process. This is what we all try to avoid, with a few simple steps in advance.
I use a magnetic induction tool at work for tight confines, and when torches would light up nearby components, etc.
Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Mini-Ductor ... 1466492882
Works when used like this: Click on the video in this link
I was bored tonight so decided to expand on some useful stuff.