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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 3:25 am 
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Location: Boulder Creek, California / Kremmling, Colorado
I may be hitting you up about those expo knuckles as soon as time and money allow, Mitsubishikid. Expo's seem to be pretty rare in the salvage yards anywhere nearby. Just the other weekend drove to the picknpull in Fairfield for some corner lamps, back-up light lenses and interior door handles off a Dodge Colt, and had a successful haul.

Got some Michelin Defender tires in 175/70R13 IIRC,which are much better than having 3 155 width tires and one 175 width in the rear! Lots of throttle-lift yaw before the new tires.

I'm looking at a November 1994 production Hyundai Elantra for its sway bar at one of the closer salvage yards, as my wife has noticed more body roll now that the tires can grip. Contemplating also going for the full set of brakes off the Elantra, but I'm not sure if the front calipers will fit with the oem 13" wheels. This car needs some vented rotors pretty badly for the downhill trek from Lick Observatory.

I finally changed the air filter which was probably fine for another 6 months and took out the card paper and metal intake silencer. I don't know about any power increase, but slightly smoother delivery of power and a slightly quieter idle were my observations. Dropped 40ish grams of weight, haha.

I have a hunch that the exhaust manifold crack is related to failed or failing motor mounts. I did a transmission fluid/filter change and noticed our bad front/center mount. I replaced the mount, resulting in a some impressive improvements in vibration and harshness of shifts. I need to inspect/service the others so the new manifold lasts.

I'm looking forward to the new sway bar for now, and hope to have another update soon.

-Nick


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 2:39 am 
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yeah expos are getting less common, but every now and then, you see them show up out of the blue.

I have a few elantra parts on hand, so if you don't manage to find a front sway bar let me know I think I might have an extra one, and if you find an elantra at any wrecking yards, pull all the motor mounts they are good to have for a 4G63 swap, and lower control arms too, also check the rear brakes on the elantra, if they are disc you can use the mounting brackets, rotors, calipers,cables etc, pretty much anytime I see these rare cars I pull all the useful bits for my car or pass em along to members on here, so I know what to look for.

I just completed a rear disc swap on my red colt, and I'm running the 2002 mitsu lancer 15 inch 5 spoke OZ rims, they provide really nice ride quality, and they clear the big 3000gt twin piston calipers, oh back on topic :lol: and I really love having the rear discs on the colt, you can really feel the difference in performance, compared to the stock drums, the car used to nose dive, I think it's because the rear could not keep up with the big front brakes, it feels a lot more neutral now, like a brand new car 8) .

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:11 pm 
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I missed the elantra in the San Jose yard by a couple of hours, but I got the sway bar to body bushings and end links ordered for the elantra sway bar for when it arrives. MitsubishiKid, do you know if the elantra 10+1/8" / 257mm(?) rotors and calipers or other combinations will fit in the factory 13-inch steelies? I'm kind of attached to them since springing for the new tires. I gave a close look at the Elantra's disc/drum setup when scouting the car, and I think the rear drums will fit, but still not certain about the front discs and calipers.

I think that the master cylinder has a slight leak (presuming into the brake booster, haven't disassembled to inspect) judging by rate of decline in the brake fluid reservoir (half the MIN-MAX range in 6 months) and a slowly sinking pedal (3-5 minutes to bottom out) after vacuum is depleted. I'm looking at a equipping remanufactured hatchback master cylinder and a elantra or 4g Mirage brake booster, but parts purchases will have to wait until I have a steady income again, managing timber is unfortunately still a seasonal gig for me.

I've been searching around the forum looking for more information about the compatibility of some of the elantra parts, and found an older post by socrateez about the Elantra Springs and liked what I read.
Quote:
I just did the four disc swap from my old 89 gt. The struts and springs i got from a Elantra (had brand new Monroes up front) Its a little stiffer but sits a good inch higher!
I'm looking for stiffer springs and maintaining or slightly increasing ride height when loaded down, so I have some big days at the junkyard when cars and cash align again.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:57 am 
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Actually your in luck, because I still have the 13 inch steel rims from my mirage, and I'm going to install my new, custom made, stainless brake lines on the rear of my colt soon, so while I'm at it, I'll try putting one of the 13inch rims on the rear, and then see if they clear my disc swap setup.

I have my new slightly bigger brake booster [its origins will remain a secret for now, I'm not sure how it will work out just yet if its bad I'll just use what everyone else falls back to], and I pulled a 2003 Mitsubishi eclipse/Galant Master cylinder with the 1 1/6 inch bore, I'm also using the proportioning valve from the same car, it's all mounted in, I just need a day or so to make some new hard lines, and then a test drive will be in order.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 5:32 pm 
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Thank you for investigating the wheel/brake fitment Abe, it is much appreciated.

Update as of a couple of days ago, picked up a 1994 Elantra sway bar and got it installed, and bumped the ignition base timing from 4 degrees to 7 degrees BTDC and the car feels much peppier with the timing advanced though there is almost no engine braking effect now. The Elantra bar made a marked improvement, though a little less than I had hoped.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 2:59 pm 
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Tires with a shorter sidewall will make the largest difference, other than suspension that keeps the car from truly rolling side to side.
The sway bar can be fitted with polyurethane bushings, so definitely look into those.

As for timing, you are experiencing most of what I did back when had a pair 4g15's (not both at the same time mind you).
There was nothing better than a port matched intake manifold (TB and the intake/head gasket areas), larger TB and a Sonata TB. If was all very finicky and yielded some more midrange power, but not a whole up top. Timing and the design of the 3 valve head were a huge drawback. I upsized the exhaust by roughly 1/8" from about the catalytic back and get a free flow type muffler. All of that made the car wake up, but it wasn't any better than dropping enough weight to call it "extra passengers" effect.

13" wheels do not fit on the Elantra brakes .... unless they are 238mm from memory which may allow a smaller caliper up front and closer to knuckle fitment due to smaller rotor diameter. 256mm turbo brakes will not allow 13" steel wheel fitment for sure.
Elantra brakes will fit up front, this we know for sure. There is a writeup of this procedure in the suspension/drivetrain archives, actually a couple of different versions using non stock C52a stuff, nor C53a stuff. Elantra was captive rotor setup too, so I always think it is best to find a way of going non-captive with larger discs/swept brake area, biggest master, higher ratio booster. The factory brake system on the C52a was woefully under developed in the distance category. Yes, the stop a vehicle, but they overheat faster than an egg on a sunny 140 degree black paint job and allow minimal feedback under heavy braking - an all or nothing scenario as such.
IF you didn't already have new tires, I would have said to jump right to the 14" steel wheel option and have your pick of the litter with regards to brake options, but when you opt for 15", you can get into the dual piston front caliper territory and that opens up so much more from the Mitsubishi factory lineup. 16-17" gets you into super larger brake setups that won't be in most peoples budget, nor matching power levels from the engine.
In hindsight, a 15" wheel combination will yield the most options for brakes with little chance of rim to caliper contact for all but the aftermarket/Mitsu rigid mounted quad+ piston calipers.
IF you drive in the winter, the rear drums aren't a bad option, but they can have two options (drum off hub) and (integrated hub/drum) designs, so be careful which one you choose because the drums with hubs (tapered bearings) can sometimes be much more expensive and dirty to work on. Replacing seals isn't fun, nor is getting the free play correct with the bearings. Sealed hub designs will have a tighter tolerance by design and help keep the wheels from angling during hard corners. Does wonders for on center feel!
Anywho, I'm babbling but figured I'd weigh in on some thoughts for you guys.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 4:27 pm 
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Thanks for your input, Flying Eagle. Had I been home from my field season when the tires were needed, I would have sought out some larger wheels, but the tires that came with the car were becoming a hazard, so I did what I felt was necessary at the time. I'm hoping that at some time in the nearish future I can sell off the tires on the 13" wheels and recoup some of the cost of going to larger wheel and brakes.

I'm not 100% clear on the bit about the elantra rear drums, they would still require a 14" or larger wheel, correct? If they would fit what I have and reduce brake dive, that would be awesome. Poking around on Rockauto, it appears that the 1.6l vs 1.8l engine determines whether an elantra got the free drums or not, but I will have to visit the brakes in fatter times.

In other news, I was gifted a Spearco water injection setup yesterday, new in the box. I'm hoping to adapt it to the 4g15, more as a piston and combustion chamber cleaner than a power adder. The friend who gave it to me had been going to use it on her F22A1 Accord several years ago but that car got hit before the kit was installed.

I need to search around the forum for rigid intake tube options that will work with the stock airbox to mount the nozzle to more easily than the rubber intake boot. I think I remember something about an eBay civic intake working but I don't recall for sure. Would be nice to find an easy solution like that.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 12:41 pm 
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Elantra rear drums may require a 14" wheel and may not. It had to be 14" IIRC to clear the front brakes.

Brake dive, may be attributed to a few things. Geometry which for all front strut cars, is not like a race car.
Anti squat geometry are angles that promote less toe change when braking, and those won't change with suspension stiffness, but won't change values as drastically when heaving braking, if the suspension is not "travelling" as deep into it's downwards stroke due to a stiffer setup.
Coil spring stiffness and corresponding strut valving will make the biggest difference with brake dive. You could have the smallest brakes and or the biggest most powerful brakes, and unless the front coils and or struts are stiffer and tuned for that stiffness, you will continue to get major nose dive when braking. Worn shocks are the worst contributor to this equation!
Rear brakes will only help achieving proper stopping power overall and helping balance the system if you play with rear bias/pads/pressure (inline blocker type device, IE Wilwood).


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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2017 8:21 pm 
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Update:
Finally got in and did the timing belt, a first for me as I had only done timing chains with ratchet-pin (correct terminology?) tensioners before. I had been afraid of the unfamiliar timing belt tensioner, which seems foolish looking back. Anyhow, there are signs of oil leakage from the front camshaft seal as radial traces left by oil droplets as they moved outward on the face of the cam gear, and the alternator is getting hit with some grungy looking oil. I've got a camshaft seal and front main seal on order, hoping to get those done soon. After the new timing belt, idle speed appears to be on the high side, have to hold the brakes firm not to creep forward at a stoplight. I've not rechecked the ignition timing after doing the timing belt, but I feel it's worth investigating if it could be a contributing factor. I'm thinking that the difference between worn and new teeth plus any stretch, however minimal, might be in play, and I'm assuming that the old belt was original with roughly 110,000 miles. I'm not ready to start blindly disturbing the BISS before eliminating other things I've disturbed.

I put in a sonata 90A alternator and had to shim it with a bunch of M8 washers on a longer bolt because the mounting ears are more widely spaced. It seems to be doing okay, but I want to resolve the oil leakage to make sure that the alternator lasts.

It's been a rough few months with little time to work on the mirage. I relocated to extreme northern California for my new job, and got the phone call that the long-term contract was canceled less than an hour after moving the last of my stuff in. I'm working on lining up something much better for my career, but I will be away from the mirage on that one also. We'll see what the future holds, and I'm hoping I can get time and money to coincide!


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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2017 9:40 pm 
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Ouch, major hit in the priority department. Wishing you the best of luck on the job side, and if and when, time to get back to the car as life allows. Knock that curve ball out of the park and do what you have to do!


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 11:53 am 
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what part of nor-cal are you near now, I'd be down to sell you parts if you still need them.
I also have some spares too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:44 pm 
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Location: Boulder Creek, California / Kremmling, Colorado
I'm back in Boulder Creek for the time being, started work on a couple of placeholder jobs to stay warm and fed, maybe budget for a part or two also. I'm still wanting to get a seat belt controller, a Hyundai Excel tubular exhaust manifold, and maybe a backup 4g15 intake tube in case I chew one up when/if I get to the water injection setup. I managed to get the camshaft seal and front main seal done on the 4th, the old cam seal was definitely in decline, and I did the front main seal while I had access just in case it was a part of the oil leakage. The anti-seize I applied when I did the timing belt did its job: it was nice to not need a 10 foot pipe as a breaker bar on the crank bolt this time!

Abe, I need to unpack my computer and PM you soon, I'm interested in what parts the wife will allow me a budget for, and I saved some info I found that might be helpful on the pickup. If I'm not working Saturday I hope to make the trek to Sacramento to pick over an Excel at the pick'n'pull, provided it's still there. I'll pm you ahead if it looks like I'll be in your area.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:56 pm 
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Update:I got the job, so now I'm balancing my forestry duties with my fire training and learning to respond to "Captain" when addressed. I'm excited to be where I'm at, though getting much work done on the Mirage is going to be tough.

I've got a new to me seat belt controller to install, (Thanks Abe!) a rear motor mount to figure out how to swap out, and a left half shaft that must be replaced soon. I might have to hire out some of the work, but I will try to get the most out of the labor going into it with some new front struts, outer tie rod end, and a ball joint in the same operation. It may be a while until I can update, but things are looking up.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 5:09 pm 
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That is a great update kidflyr! Things are looking up, in many respects. Congratulations on the new job, Cap!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:14 pm 
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Glad I could help you save this old gem, if I were nearby Id help you do all of the maintenance lol thats not too hard to do on these cars, assuming you have all the tools and parts, whenever your ready to do more upgrades, or as budget allows, let me know if you need anything else, to keep this car going :D .

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