4g61t.org

Specializing in the 3g CSM
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 1:21 pm

All times are UTC-05:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 301 posts ]  Go to page Previous 111 12 13 14 1521 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 12:13 pm 
Offline
Some call me a god
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:53 pm
Posts: 1494
Location: Seattle, WA
Relay kit I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140859700167?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

and fan. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130932579865?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 4:04 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
That relay kit looks just like the one I passed up from the same seller I got the fans from. Would do the trick for sure.

Reason for passing at the moment, is that I may have a lead on 50-70amp relays meant for continuous duty, and the wiring to keep it happy longterm. <- oh and it may look really clean too.

Gosh knows how much wiring I have through the engine bay with full emissions and such, still in place.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:04 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Received an Ebay all aluminum race radiator in the form of a Galant (VR4) application. Sourcing some new hoses and little things.

Started the clunk-no-go-sound again, and didn't spin that last time I went to move the car, unwittingly did have the harness apart and no coolant in it ... that was a bedtime moment if I ever had one.

The radiator is super thick and might pose a problem with fan fitment so it was a good thing I got thinner larger fans. 50mm thick to be exact.

Not sure on a shroud setup yet, but there is more room to work on that as the time comes.

I want this thing running before the salt hits.

I will drive it in any temperature but not with salt on the roads.

Hurray for a heater and AC.

Image
Image
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 8:02 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Updates to the parts list that recently arrived:

Titanium exhaust heat wrap for the downpipe
Silicone 2.25" couplers - two styles to test for fitment in the intercooler piping; bulge at the rad support flow through connection and flat for the upper pipes headed to the TB
J-pipe compressed air outlet gaskets and allen head bolts to facilitate pipe installation in tight confines
1G Eprom ECU socketted.
Brand new Bosch 02 narrow band sensor with proper direct fit connector - backup!
1G OEM DSM Mitsubishi Manual transmission starter
AL4006X Galant VR4 Bosch remanufactured 90 AMP alternator (up from the 75A DSM unit in there now) - sourced from the US through WorldPac here in Canada

Parts I am contemplating hitting the go button for:
That little white block on the top of the plunge mechanism that drops into the transaxle, this provides the up and down movement into the shaft - they wear out! Last part of the shifter line that needs a refresh!
Hoses to replace the heater core inlet/outlet, water pipe to TB, thermostat housing to water pipe, etc.
1 more 1G Eprom ECU socketted.
1 backup turbo ....

The original 4g61t now sits nearly bare block on the stand.
I have had the polished crank and lightened flywheel (if memory serves me well enough till the wrapping comes off) sitting mummified in oil and wrap, in the corner of the basements I have lived in, for the better parts a decade. I am going to assembly what I can from that motor. Maybe it stays, maybe it doesn't. It is nice to know that I do have a complete numbers matching car with regards to drivetrain and engine blocks/heads. Two spare transmissions (1 original worn out syncros, 1 from Virginia with worn out syncros) and the original 4g61t, are taking up valuable real estate.
Hrmmm ......


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:20 pm 
Quote:

The original 4g61t now sits nearly bare block on the stand.
I have had the polished crank and lightened flywheel (if memory serves me well enough till the wrapping comes off) sitting mummified in oil and wrap, in the corner of the basements I have lived in, for the better parts a decade. I am going to assembly what I can from that motor. Maybe it stays, maybe it doesn't. It is nice to know that I do have a complete numbers matching car with regards to drivetrain and engine blocks/heads. Two spare transmissions (1 original worn out syncros, 1 from Virginia with worn out syncros) and the original 4g61t, are taking up valuable real estate.
Hrmmm ......
I hear ya, My needing a rebuild 61t is sitting on a motor stand in bsmt catching dirty looks from the girlfriend lol..., hate to part with it as contemplating returning to mostly stock for a daily driver; and may be easier to sell than with the built 2.0. Decisions ..decisions..


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 12:56 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
More parts arrived!

One more 1990 DSM Socketted Eprom ECU.

Here is what I ordered with regards to belts, to fit MY setup:

Power steering/WP belt:
Gates 9265 V-Belt

Alternator/WP/Crank
Gates K040390RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt

AC/Crank belt:
Gates K040360RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt

Heavy duty Blue top belts for the multi-rib style and a standard/HD V-belt for the power steering.
Got the belts a few weeks back and have yet to install them. I can give feedback if all goes well this season.
the Blue Top Racing belts are no longer in production according to Gates, so whatever stock they are selling is the last of it.
Get them while they last in outlying warehouses. I wanted to do some color contrast between my wrinkle black motor bits and the pulley areas.
If my fuel pressure gauge was color matched and a few other bits, it might look a littl better but for now, they are designed with newer materials and lifespan when mated to a turbocharged platform.
That's what the label says anyways ... time will tell.

From my post at galantvr4.org:
Quote:
Looking to replace all three accessory belts on my engine.

Timing belt is new OEM.

My motor is a 6 bolt, GVR4 import with a C53A AC compressor (uses same as, GVR4 tensioner assembly circa 91.06.1-92.05.3).

Found the Gates Racing belts (Blue top surface) in the following flavors:

A/C - AcDelco 4K360 installed now
K040360RB (C53A length) E.L. = 917 mm
K040365RB (GVR4 length) E.L. = 928 mm

ALTERNATOR
K040390RB E.L. = 993mm

Non-Racing series Not Blue top
POWER STEERING
9265 AUTO V-BELT XL E.L. = 673mm


GVR4 specification for belts per ASA:
AC to CK = MB439336 = 920mm effective length 4PK920
ALT to WP to CK = MD187458 = 995mm effective length
PS to WP = MD178430 = 660mm effective length



Have any of you installed these belts and if so, how are they doing so far?

My motor will see mainly street use but I like the idea of a belt designed for a higher output engine.

I can go with OEM belts too.

Gates lists the belts as remaining stock only, and I have leads at my fingertips currently.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 1:10 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Should add that I have a second Colt parked at my house for a short while. Took 4 hours to get them both driveable to swap them in and out of the driveway.
I think I will go see if they both start, so I can get started on tearing off certain parts from the red car. The red car will be dragged out of my garage on a flatbed.
May have to get some dollies to drag it out.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:37 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Both cars are running and the driveway swap happened. The adventure begins!


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:20 pm 
Pics? lol


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 11:23 am 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
To answer the question, yes!

But, I left my phone at home. I also have some video of the two running. The whole front end is off the red car. Determining if I want to keep the rad support and a few other structural related bits for future use or not.

I did score another radiator out of this deal, BUT many of the parts that don't like sitting have become fragile. Colt mud flaps were 3 for 4. Front one disintegrated when I attempted to pull the bolts back out. They utilize a metal strip for structural support but those rot out and get all mangled when you want to remove the screws. The rears may be salvageable as they are installed into the plastic bumper.

The front bumper support basically rotted out near it's main frame rail mounts, but was still a bit of work to remove. The side bolts were accessible and came loose, the forward facing bolts had no "head" left to use for removal. Amazing what happens behind those turn signal housings! Silent death ....


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:05 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Walnutport, PA
Man all that brake and hub stuff looks all to familiar lol. I though about painting the spindles and stuff and was going to do the LCA too but it was so covered and grease and stuff and I was in to much of a hurry. I was also worried about getting paint in where the races went.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 7:35 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Yes, I too worried about paint where it shouldn't be. I scraped out any paint that got in the bored where the races got hammered into. Used a brass punch and hammer in a circular format to drive them in. Could of pressed them I suppose. But it gets the job done with minimal chaos. I showed a picture of the painted hub flange (backside) where the seal rides, so it can be shown that I did take a wire wheel on a small air grinder tool, to "polish" where the lip face of the brown seal rides up against the flange area. I originally blasted and painted it, then thought that paint with small grit from the crushed glass would do wonders for the dust lip in the long run. So, out came a razor blade and the small wire wheel combo.

Something odd I noticed when I took the knuckles and set them off the vehicle for the first time. I could grab the rotor/flange (still bolted together), and move them separate of the knuckle structure. I assume the seals weren't fully seated and or the lips had been work down, so there was play. With my newly assembled set, there is no play and it all feels "tight" with grease. I don't spin them anymore because it could push out the synthetic grease on the axle cup seal side. Non spinning the wheels until she is all back together!

I need to purchase some more sawzall blades, as I have broken my only pair as I chop out the rear corners of the car. Faster than drilling all the spot welds, which I can do at my leisure once the shell is gone and the cars for in the garage and driveway again. That's a struggle for next winter I think .....

Thought about blasting the lower control arms in the cabinet but after picking up the one C52A LCA and seeing the rust that fell out from the inside area, I started looking online for C53/C58 lower control arms. Found some listed in France and some in Britain. Lots of part numbers to work with. Net they sold more of those cars in Europe in various trims that in North America. Anyways, quite a few warehouses show stock, but haven't called to confirm a visual check on the product in question. I would get a kick out of ordering parts in French, maybe not so, the person taking my call. Wink wink. Still on the fence about C52A control arms with offset caster bushings as regular C53A LCA polyurethane bushings are quite pricey as we know.

I posted this without my glasses and used the dang IPhone with bloomin AutoCorrect. Failstick.


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:16 am 
Offline
CSM Junkie
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 5:43 am
Posts: 580
Location: FRANCE
I can help you Tim to find LCA here !
I have 1 used set nice condition for sure, but my local warehouse can get brand new one if you want !
Keep up the good work :)


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:49 pm 
Offline
The Silent Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Thanks Remy, I may take you up on that.

I want to send my stock C52A suspension to HotBits Canada (Brampton, Ontario), maybe with a control arm, so they can see what things look like. If I have swapped my knuckles over (complete), I could send the C53A brakes in with it all. I think Peter only really needs the struts (complete) as this resembles the DSM/GVR4 SO MUCH, unless he is incorporating canisters to the setup.


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 8:47 pm 
Offline
The happy administrator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
Good to see some work getting done on the old boy!

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 301 posts ]  Go to page Previous 111 12 13 14 1521 Next

All times are UTC-05:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 37 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited