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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:09 am 
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Location: Norway/Cyprus
I got a Colt as a holiday car, basically I drive it three weeks a years lol. But I'd like to have some fun with it this year.. Are there any other coilover brands on the market for these cars than K-Sport? If not, who's got the best prices?

I usually hammer cars down and fit the widest wheels I can.. How wide can you go before it rubs on the 3G, 7 or 8s? And what kind of offsets should I be looking for? I don't want ET0 Sportmax poke lol.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:36 am 
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K-sport is the only company that makes a kit for the 3G CSM specifically. You can adapt other kits to work without too much effort.

Do some reading here:
http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=10

As far as wheels, anything wider than 7" will cause rubbing issues, unless you're doing the whole hellaflush thing and stretching skinny tires across wider wheels. The perfect size, in my opinion, is a 15x7" +40 offset with a 205/50 tire. Anywhere from +38 to +42 is ideal with a 7" width.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:49 am 
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Hellaflush and Stanceworks can kiss my pale white ass.. 8) But I've had stretched tires on my cars for years (before the fads existed), I'd run 7s with 185s or 8s with 195s in order not to rub fenders.. The Colt is an auto choke carb fed 1.3 so I'm not ruining any performance lol.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:28 am 
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No one? :lol:
I may just sell this car and buy an Evo 8 instead come think of it.. :lol: But there's just something about dumping a wad of cash on coils and dope wheels on an 80s econobox.. 8) I got issues, but so do we all lol.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Wont get many more responses, CaptainTonus pretty much covered it.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:04 pm 
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In other words no one really fit wide wheels and hammer these cars? Colt/Mirage guys do seem to enjoy function over form and swap 4G63s like there's no tomorrow.. And I have no problem with that.. Just not the (imminent) direction I would like to take my car in..

Why I asked if anyone else had something to chime in with even though I had a response, is that this reminds me of when I got into little Daihatsu Charades. Fit 6" wheels all the guys said.. 7" ET35 will rub they said.. You can never lower the cars a lot and not expect to rub they said.. I proved them wrong.. We're going for 8s on that car this year, with calculated offsets, camber bolts/shims and a little fender work a lot is possible :)

My Colt is a couple of thousand miles away from me.. Getting coilovers and wheels shipped in is not a problem.. Getting the wrong wheels shipped will suck.. It would be nice to know what the limits are.. Looking at these cars the fenders should take more than 7" ET38. I'm a VW man at heart, advices on doable (but still far from stock) wheel dimensions is readily available in that world.. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:13 pm 
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Quote:
Why I asked if anyone else had something to chime in with even though I had a response, is that this reminds me of when I got into little Daihatsu Charades. Fit 6" wheels all the guys said.. 7" ET35 will rub they said.. You can never lower the cars a lot and not expect to rub they said.. I proved them wrong.. We're going for 8s on that car this year, with calculated offsets, camber bolts/shims and a little fender work a lot is possible :)
The problem with these cars is the fact that they have a solid rear axle, which means you can't get any negative camber in the rear. Short of cutting the crap out of the fenders or installing fender flares, you're not going to get anything crazy-wide on there. Also, when you slam these cars to the ground, it makes them drive like complete shit because there isn't enough suspension travel to begin with, and when you slam it even more the car just becomes a bounce machine which is actually dangerous because it tends to make the rear-end want to change directions on you without you if you hit a bump going fast enough, or hard enough. Go ahead and prove us all wrong. :D

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:54 pm 
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If I do I may end up in a ditch by the sound of it :lol: I didn't mean to come off like a d*ck.. I've had this car for 4 years, but since I'm only driving it 3 weeks a year I still consider myself a newbie to these cars.. :) I'm not a newbie to having cars sit nicely though and that's what triggered this thread.

Camber plates as top mounts or a shim or washer solution on the back of the drums/axles could help for camber, although the back is less of a problem than the front as the front wheels obviously demand more space. Are the K-Sport's lower mounts adjustable on the collars or are they welded so height adjustment is only done by adjusting spring preload as well? I do prefer the former, as the latter often result in as you also mention, a bouncy ride with no spring preload, where you'd might as well could run cut springs on blown stock shocks.

You do have a valid point on stiffness/travel/handling.. But I'm not really about driving this car fast.. 4G13 does not enjoy that :lol: This car is always chilling in the slow lane at 70, or cruising around small towns.. Come to think of it this car is a shame for all 3Gs lol.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:30 pm 
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I don't know too much about the way the K-sports are designed. Very few people on the forums are using them, because mostly everyone here are broke assholes who are trying to do everything on a budget (can't blame them). The few people on here who do use them seem to like them though. I don't think a camber plate in the rear is gonna do anything if you have a solid beam, but I'm not too sure. I don't think anyone on here has ever tried it. Most people don't pay much attention to suspension on these cars, they only care about drag racing. I'm one of the few guys who tried to make my CSM handle better, and it got me absolutely nowhere.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:58 am 
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Oh look, another "hellaflush" fanboy they said. No hes not they said. Don't get an Evo 8 it can't run -4 camber on 10.5" wheels they said. Wait what? :wink:

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:05 am 
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On Ksports the entire shock body is threaded and ride height is adjusted by screwing up/down of the lower mounting point. The springs and perches are set to a preload and never touched again. The struts/shocks will retain the same preload and travel regardless of what height you adjust the ride.

For what its worth, I drive my Turd daily with the Ksports set on full stiff and don't mind at all. I'm 43yrs old and have a compressed discs in my lower back too. :-p And no its not from my car either. Lol

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'89 Colt GT w/bigger than stock turbo
'91 Talon AWD w/bigger than stock turbo
'05 Dodge diesel w/bigger than stock turbo


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:37 pm 
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This was when I first installed the Ksport coilovers. I had a set of 15x7 Enkei 92 with a +38 offset on 195/50r15 Tires. This is the lowest you can go. The problem was that the rear fenders needed to be rolled and that when you lower the car that much the rear axle actually shifts to the left causing the alignment of the rear wheels to the front wheels is off and a groove to be cut into the sidewall. I imagine you can run about an 8" wide wheel if you stretched the tires and rolled the inner lip on the front and rear fenders. I'm honestly all for it. Also when you buy some wheels for your car mind that the front brakes are a captive rotive setup and that there are 4 bolts heads that stick out on the hub so you HAVE to have that space on the inside of the wheel to clear them. So most multi-lug pattern wheels wont work.

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1991 Plymouth Colt - Project
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:01 pm 
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Location: Canton, GA
I have 17x8 +38 with 225/45 tires. They don't rub on the fenders (trimmed), however they scrub on the frame rail and transmission at full lock. They were a bit too wide for the solid axle rear, even with an adjustable panhard bar to center it. I never ran them in the back for more than 1/4 mile due to the scrubbing (now going AWD).

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:19 pm 
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i ran Whiteline springs, 13x7 +25 Revolutions and 205/60R15 R-compounds on my sedan, fit great, looked fantastic, though the rear fenders needed to be rolled.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:07 pm 
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I'm one of the few guys who tried to make my CSM handle better, and it got me absolutely nowhere.
What he said. :partyman:

I spent several years with SCCA autocross aspirations, trying to make my '89 Turbo handle somewhere near decently in sweeping style bigger radius corners. It did well enough in transistions, like slaloms, but that may have been because my hands could move the wheel so quickly? :-"

Stock classes are restricted to standard size wheels, and offset had to be within 1/4" max. For the front I found stock RX-7 wheels (same bolt pattern) and enlarged the hub hole to fit. They had a wider offset of 6mm, perfect! Stock rear steel wheels.... Stock shocks on the front, Yellow Koni on the rear, adjusted full stiff... Nasty ride that way on the street, but they were internally (off of the car only) adjustable! Front sway bar swapped for one off of a base model car. Different brake pad compounds front/rear.

205/55 on the front, 185/60 on the rear. Tire pressures mattered less than anything else, and that is not common in the sport. I really tried everything I could think of... The car did get better, but never really worked, except at certain sites which demanded narrow, transition-intensive courses. Occasional, confounding success. :-k At the core of the problem was, IMO, that solid beam rear axle, with welded-on spindles. No adjustment anywhere, other than a tiny amount of total thrust angle. According to the shop I took it to early in my quest, the rear had 3/8" of toe-in. No wonder it would not do much more than 0.85g before the front plowed like a farm implement. I did buy a boneyard rear axle, since modifying the old one was illegal, but never got around to putting it on, or even having it checked out. Life got in the way of the desire to be competitive, I guess.

Highest the car ever got @ the SCCA Nationals was 11th, in 1998 I think. ](*,) Sucked, from my perspective. I had won in '85 with an '83 GTS. Totally different car, with a rear suspension that actually worked, and the car behaved like it was on rails. Then, there was that 8-speed.... :supz:

Pardon my nostalgic rant.

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Love my '89 Colt Turbo, but I run the Shifter Kart for a competition thrill!


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