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Hey guys, so I am working out the kinks in the mirage and this is one I've been battling for a while and need some ideas.

Here's the setup I'm running- 92-95 elantra clutch master, 16" solid line to a 12" SS flex to a 12" hard line to a brand new 92-95 elantra clutch slave. It has been fully bled, pedal feels good. I adjusted the engagement point to be about an inch and a half off the floor, about 1/3 the way from all the way up.

There are no problems with the engagement point if I shift normal or quickly. If I use NLTS my engagement point goes up and causes not all the pressure to be released. I can adjust the master cylinder to lower the engagement point but that seems like a bandaid. I can loosen the bleeder screw and the engagement point will lower but then the issue will not be resolved.

Does anyone have any ideas? I'm sorta lost, I was using a 1g AWD slave before but thought that could be part of the problem so I went with the elantra slave to replace it so that parts are matched now. I'd like to get this figured out so I can use NTLS at the track friday and not worry about bleeding it after every run.

No ideas?? Dang...

The engagement point of 1.5" off the floor is suspect. When I replaced my Master and slave with OEM parts, and the hardline to braided stainless, my engagement point with my ACT 2100 equivalent clutch is now well off the floor where it should be. The old parts could not take the heavy clutch even though they were not leaking.

this site says 2-3" off the floor:

http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_ ... _info.html

I will bleed the system again using that way and see how it feels after. Hopefully it is just air in the system still.

A good gravity bleed then some pressure bleeding, followed by the pushing of the slave rod back into the slave by hand, then closing the bleeder.
All of that netted me the best bleed I had to date. I also found out that my last slave did not like the manual bleed technique, it was getting weak anyways.

Well I'm at my wits end. I bled it again, adjusted the pedal to what I thought was the perfect spot, drove to the track, paid 20 to get in, waited 30 minutes to run and my first nlts and the clutch slips. I can't get this Pos adjusted, it either won't disengage or when get it high enough it has pump up.

On top of that a rear wheel bearing or driveshaft bearing failed and is making a horrible racket. I swear this car will never stop having issues. I'm half tempted to get a beat 1g shell for 300-500 and put all my parts in that and just crushing the mirage. End my bleeding wallet problems.

Found my issue today, my pressure plate bolts loosened up. So instead of the slave disengaging the PP it's simply lifting it off the flywheel a little. Luckily it's my 2 days off so I'm going to see how fast I can get the transmission removed. I'm shooting for an hour, completely assembled to transmission on the ground.

Glad to hear you didn't need to crush the shell to solve this one.

_________________
"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

I find it funny you thought buying a 1g shell would end your "bleeding wallet" problem. As is very common with ALL performance Mitsubishis: the problem was the user, not the product. Glad you found the problem and were able to fix it!

Yes, yes, I over reacted... Although some of the problems I've had are from the fact it was converted but that's beside the point.

Anyway, took me about an hour and half to get it all apart and transmission dropped. That thing was filthy so it got a quick purple power bath. I had at least 4 loose PP bolts, 2 seemed to be alright. I pulled them out one at a time, coated them with blue loctite and torqued them back down. I'll be taking this opportunity to swap my lower control arm out too, sense the tranny blocks the front bolt from being removed.

Anyone removed that little restricter in the slave cylinder? I've actually never noticed it till today but would assume that removing it would help faster shifts.

I have never removed the restrictor and have never had shifting problems. I have had clutch slipping issues when the clutch couldnt handle what the engine was throwing at it though.

Funny you mention that bolt; Just last night I installed my new tires, Tein springs, and lubed up all my creaking urethane bushings.
I had to remove my cross member, pry my transmission forward, and angle my control arm so I could pull the bolt forward, and down to the left. It came out, even though my huge AWD transmission made it look impossible at first.

_________________
"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

1 Wow! I would have sworn that thing was impossible to remove if you hadn't done it. I thought about attempting it before but held off on the pain and suffering it would have caused me. lol I knew I'd have to remove my transmission sooner or later.