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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:50 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Here is a picture with the rears adjusted as low as they go without touching the spring perch height.

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I levelled the ride height out and this is what I have been running since.

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There is a lot of room for camber adjustment in the front as well, this is with the camber set in the max position.

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I briefly entertained the idea of running some chromies on the car. Only Super Cheap’s finest would do.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:52 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Now it was time to start wiring the Link Plus G3 and associated bits together. I distinctly remember this time in the build as I was literally dreaming rainbows of wire colours.

With the dual twin ignitors, I had always planned to run sequential ignition vs the standard dual coil wasted spark setup of a stock system. This meant finding some coils that would work and again I turned to the US where there were off the shelf kits based of Chrysler 300M dumb coils.

This was before the trend of using Yaris/Echo coils, which would have saved me installing the ignitors and also given me an option to buy locally. I do have a setup of Yaris coils waiting to go in at a later date.

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One of things I wish I could change is how I wired the ECU. At the time, I integrated the G3 into the stock wiring and wired the G3 to replace the stock ECU, instead of focusing on actually what the G3 was capable of controlling.

What I mean is that the G3 can control the Radiator Fans, the A/C and has far more inputs for Oil Pressure/Fuel Pressure etc. Instead I focused on replicating the stock setup which has resulted in a configuration that’s not as good as it could have been.

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I needed to add a clutch switch for launch control to work in the G3 and after looking at how the pedal box had been setup it looked like I could use a normal brake pedal switch in the clutch pedal end stop.

But alas the thread size was different, M12 vs M10 but I ended up drilling and tapping out the old stop and threading it for M12. This was not fun with the pedal box in the car, in fact I think my shoulder still tweaks when I think about it.

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After about 2 or maybe 3 weeks I had a finished loom on the living room floor for the G3 that plugged into all the standard harnesses and connectors.

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And this was all the standard wiring I removed and replaced…

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:53 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
To my absolute amazement, after some basic configuration of the G3 the engine fired into life very easily. Over the next few weeks I roughed in an idle tune and checked everything was working as expected.

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At this point it was late 2008 and about 18 months since the car was last driving and here it was being flat bedded to be tuned.

In 2008, not many people were tuning with Links in Perth, ViPec hadn’t been incorporated and they were still seen as an odd ball kiwi ECU to a few of the local tuners.

I did manage to find someone willing to give it ago, I said to do a safe tune, 21psi or 350hp atw, whatever it makes first.

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After a few days, I had the car back.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:55 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Well, that wasn’t what I was expecting. Sure, surfing the ramp is fun but at 20psi where is the rest of the power?

The tuner mentioned that the way the car was behaving on the dyno looked like there was something choking it, perhaps the intercooler or just a shit turbo.

It’s probably worth noting that this power level is pretty much what the previous setup on the little 16G could make and be significantly more drivable. Something wasn’t right.

Back to the drawing board, well box of beer and contemplation.

The car drove in that guise for about 6 months, it drove great, very economical under 4krpm but an animal above, very Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.

I couldn’t help but think something wasn’t right thought. Reading through the forums indicated that it probably wasn’t the turbo, it should be able to make 350hp at the wheels on 20psi quite easily.

Perhaps it was the modified JDM VR4 Intercooler?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Following that line of thinking I spotted a second hand PWR barrel cooler setup for sale that was used on a very well sorted VR4, perfect!

When it first arrived, I set it all up for a test run. The reservoir was built quite large and had a [dry] ice pocket inside for extra cools, but that also made it large and heavy. The reservoir was originally mounted in the boot of the VR4 it came from so that’s the route I intended to take.

I added some ball valves so the system could be drained and to allow bypassing the radiator for pure Icey cooled water, most likely a bit overboard.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:57 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
Posts: 403
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Now, I was still using the Fidanza Aluminium flywheel, sintered puck friction plate and a something/something pressure plate that I mentioned earlier and I had come to the realisation that it too, much like the twin plate was probably a bit unsuitable for this cars driveline.

Since I had the barrel cooler setup to install now would be a good time to drop the gearbox and install something a bit more practical.

This time around I went for a Fidanza chromoly flywheel, ClutchNet Kevlar puck friction plate and Fidanza 1500kg pressure plate.

The idea here is that the Kevlar friction plate provides enough slip to give a good increase in driveability, while also being resistant to overheating and the heavy pressure plate helps with the overall power handling capacity.

Clutch setup No#3

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While the box was out again I installed some Nolothane engine mount inserts in the north – south, gearbox and cam mounts. This was not an easy task as the new mount inserts eliminates all the minor free play needed to bolt the engine in easily. I needed to get quite creative with the order in which the mounts were installed, jacks and pry bars to get it all lined up and installed.

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Before reinstalling the gearbox, I gave it a quick lick of paint to help hide it in the engine bay.

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Gearbox Nolothane mount installed as well, engines rock solid now.

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Tick.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:59 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
How the heck was I going to fit that barrel cooler? The outlet of the barrel was 3” and the throttle body was 2.5”. It also needed to reduce through a nearly 90 degree bend and had to be a little flexible.

Easiest way I could see the cooler fitting is like the below dummy setup, but if the throttle body was 3” it would work well for the top bend.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Taking a closer look at the intake manifold. It’s the original Cyclone intake from the VR4 the engine came from. It’s a rather complicated intake manifold compared to others in this generation as it has two runners per cylinder of differing lengths.

In the picture below the blue line is the short runner and the green the long runner. The short runner has a set of butterflies that close at low rpm to help promote velocity through the longer runner and then the short runners open at about 4000rpm or 6 psi of boost.

Interestingly if the butterflies were closed at high rpm it would be a significant restriction as it would act like a choke… hang on… let me re-check the wiring to the Link G3 – fruit and banana!

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Turns out I had setup the G3 to Close the butterflies at 4000rpm instead of opening! This was likely the restriction that gave the lower than expected dyno result! FFS!

Too far into it now to stop though…


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
The next logical purchase to solve the barrel cooler mounting problem and my inability to check the old manifolds cyclone wiring is of course a new intake manifold. Perfect sense.

Only the best eBay here, but I had them move the vacuum port location from the top of the manifold the rear and to leave off the standard throttle body flange.

I then ordered a Plazman 3” throttle boy and had the adapter flange welded to the new intake manifold.

The throttle body, unlike the manifold is a work of art and has a cammed/progressive linkage to try and help with small throttle positioning.

In the picture below I briefly consider mounting the barrel over the top of the turbo inlet and clocking the turbo.

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Eventually I decided against mounting the barrel high and used the original low route, I think it makes it look like there is more room in the engine bay.

Here you can see the short outlet pipe from the turbo to the barrel, on the underside of that pipe is the blow off valve which just vents to atmosphere, though it does have a little filter on it to keep shit out.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Mounting the W2A radiator was easy, right where the old A2A unit was. Except there was quite a bit extra room now.

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The reservoir on the other hand was intended to go in the boot of the car which meant that lovely boot I had built would need to be hacked apart. It also means I needed a way to get the water from the boot to the engine bay and back again.

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I didn’t have access to a bender at the time and looking back I should’ve used some aluminin bundy, but instead I decided to use hosing to run from the rear to the front and this is probably a good example of the way it “should not be done”

I also thought that the underside of the car gets pretty hot so to be sure, I wrapped it in foam insulation to try and give it a chance of staying cool.

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I mounted most of the W2A hardware into the spare wheel well and ran the hosing through large grommets. It’s a bosch water pump and it flows a silly amount of water, pefect for sending all of this water to the front and back again.

The boot did look like it was a bit unbalanced with that reservoir sitting on the left side all by itself.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:04 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
I know, lets put a sub in the other side.

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…and while we are at it, I visited super cheap to purchase a new head unit and some speakers to redo the audio system. Im not fussy here as anything would be better than what was there so I just went with a full Sony setup. It works well enough for me.

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My car never had door speakers, just little 4” speakers in the side of the dash so I needed to make some small pods to fit the 6.5” splits.

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And similar with the rear where I needed to build up a rear parcel shelf. It was a bit of trial and error to get it to fit nicely as there isnt a lot of room to fit a set of 6x9’s with the steep rear window.

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With the boot all finished up it came out quite neat, you can see the handle on the floor section that lifts out to give access to the water pump and valving.

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I added a Alpine PDX.1000 as the AMP for the sub and the whole stereo made pretty good doof, doof noises.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:05 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
I’ve had some problems keeping all the oil in the sump with this car, probably not a good thing I know. But it would ocassionaly drop a few drips here and there and this was because I had taken the sump off a few times which had cause some stress fractures where the oil could seep through.

I had also modified the stock two bolt turbo oil drain for something a bit larger with hose fittings, but the welding had also cracked in a few places that lead to more leaks.

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After pulling the modified stock oil pan a few times to re-weld and repair it because obvious that it was just getting worse each time.

The leaks really annoyed me so I purhcased a Chinabay Moroso copy sump, which soon after it was installed leaked more that the old pan it replaced. FFS.

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The qaulity looked passable before it was installed and it generally held liquid well except oil has a tendency to calpilery out where the oil pan meets the flange (not flange -> engine).

I couldnt be bothered removing the pan again to fix it so I just smeared a shit load of goop around until the leak stopped, but it seems leaks stopped in one spot and started in another.

Its not leaking bad, a few drips every now and then, fruit and banana over it though – try and fix something – make it worse.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:06 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
With the W2A system, I connected the water pump up to the ECU so I could control when it was turning on/off. I had some crazy thoughts about pulsing it with intake temperatures yada yada. But I atleast wanted some sort of indicator in the car to tell me when it was working. I added these two small led’s on the intrument cluster.

Green for when the pump is running

Orange for when the Intake Air Temp reaches a certain temperature, Its currently set to 65c.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
(with no prior experience) I’ve always wanted a car with bucket seats for as long as I can remember, so it seemed like an opportune time to add a set of fake Brides to the car.

I mounted fire extingushers to both rails and spent a bit of time making sure they were centered properly as well as low as possible.

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Knowing what I know now I wouldn’t have done this, the seats are very tight and not very comfortable after a short time seated. Live and learn.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:44 pm
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
This car had a few partial resprays in Japan, its definity good from afar but far from good. At some point the boot lid had been resprayed and the original decals where missing. I thought it would be quite hard to get a set but thankfully a knowledgeable person in a Mitsubishi dealership was able to track down both the Mickey Mouse Club and Cyborg decal ex Japan.

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Originally, there would have been MIRAGE in the centre of the tail garnesh, but there were none available when I enquired. I should look at getting a reproduction made as it would just be a normal vinyl sticker.

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