4g61t.org

ah, new i forgot something, when in "track mode" i'll have a bypass to prime/run the pump constantly, also i will just use plan water because using coolant actually lowers the amount of heat the water can absorb. i am a little concerned about ice'ing inside the res but the res has a specifically designed hole in the middle with massive plates...

gah, pictures speak better



i think also because of the distance between the center cooler section where the dry ice goes, and the outside of the res, unless i get 4-5" of ice inside it "shouldnt" blocak the lines.


Thanks for pointing that out Shaun.

I see how you plan to make the resevoir now. Water of course has an even lower freezing point but does exchange heat much better than using coolant. Good planning and hopefully better execution!

Looks like it will work great.

If water does freeze, it will expand with a great force...not good for aluminum if it was me I would do a 25/75 mix of water/ethylene glycol. also pure grain alcohol (everclear/199 proof alcohol if available or legal in your country) transfers heat super well. just put some on your hand and instantly it gets cold from evaporation. only problem is that it's super explosive. Maybe a 50/50 solution of that, or a cheap 100 proof vodka would be your best choice!

so i havent been lazy... much...

i brought all the tubing, valves and insulation i need to get most of the kit in.

its basically just 3/4" rubber tubing that i have wrapped in foam insulation and covered with electrical tape. i will insulated everywhere i can in the hope that even if it stops the water heating up by just 1deg it will have been worth it.



i quickly did a dummy fit up to check the valves etc. with the system in normal street mode it takes 37sec to fill a 10ltr bucket. with the radiator out of the loop in strip mode it only takes 29sec. that little bosch friggin moves the water!



ran the tubing to the front, basically just followed the fuel lines with zip ties for now. i will got to my local exhaust shop and bung it on their hoist for a while and replace the zip ties with proper clamps later.

after looking under neath the car i only really had one place to put the tubing through, i need three holes because i am also running a drain tap out just behind the rear bumper.



its pretty much it now, i will insulate the hoses in the boot, then bolt them down, then probably spend the next three months re-making the custom boot i had already made

yea i know these are not the cool any more, but i've wanted one for long before drop kicks started putting them on honda's





yes im retarded and my mirrors dirty...

That reservoir is HUGE. How much weight do you figure you added to the car?

even the the res is huge, its pretty much hollow in the middle, all up im thinking it will add about 40-50kg when wet, minus probably 10kg for removing the old cooler and intake.

i would weight it all but i broke the bathroom scales on the weekend hahahaha

Eh, bathroom scales are only so-so on accuracy anyway...

er....I don't wanna know lol.....

i was trying to weight a engine and gearbox hahahaha

scales didnt like it

Suuure.... too many pies

so i havent been lazy,

i found i couldnt mount the hose to the boot floor because the fuel tank it about 5mm below it, so i made a MDF section which sits where the spare wheel used too which gives me enough meat to screw into.

i havent decided if i will bracket bolt or sikaflex the new wheel well floor down yet.



its all starting to fit at the rear, i have run the hoses to the front now. had to go under the gearbox though.

i will concentrate on finishing the setup in the boot then move to the front.

update time,

for the last few months i have been off work because of a mystery illness that i have had for the last two years but which had progressed to the stage where i couldnt get out of bed or work. managed to see a new doctor who has given me some pills just for the pain and now i can actually get up and move about during the day which is friggin awesome.

anyhow, i've been out of bed for the last two weeks and finally started working on the borg again!

i've always wanted two 12"s running atleast 1000watt combined, but due to space limitations i had to settle with only one 12"

so i ended up getting a 12" Pioneer Competition Pro 3500watt sub and a Apline PDX.1000watt amp, i chose the Apline amp because it has a fruit and banana load of power but is very compact in size. i am really starting to run out of room... everywhere...





the sub box is EXACTLY the correct size as per the subs specs, i tried to make the sub box the same general shape as the W2A res, to try and stop it looking out of place.

but because i had to deepen and length the sub box so i could get the correct cft i needed to change my primary circuit breaker to this.



all the gaps you see are allowances for the carpet which is 3mm thick. i like the hard wearing stuff

i am half way through re-wiring the boot for the amp and W2A water pump, with a bit of luck that should be done tomorrow. then its just final trimming of the custom wood and carpeting.

everyone loves updates!

so here is one


Boot is ALL DONE! FINALLY! and i have also finished all the wiring to the ECU etc.

when i started testing the electrics, one of the friggin speakers was shorting out somewhere in the stock wiring. so i quickly ran some new speaker wires. once that was sorted, started tuning the sub. blew 40/60/80amp fuse's even before getting the gain past half. ended up having to switch to a blade style fuse so i could go above 100amp. it sounds good now, sub deffinatly can over power the speakers as i am not running any amps for them, just headunit power. but overall its very punchy and controlled which i what i was really wanting.





I wired two LEDs upto the ecu, green one lights up when the W2A pump is running and the orange one lights up when the AIT reaches whatever i set, say 50deg C



Mounted the front W2A setup radiator, i am not totally happy with it as even though the radiator is thinner than the intercooler that was there before hand, it actually protrudes more because i have it sitting parallel to the other radiators rather then the slightly angled in i had the intercooler. this means the front bumper doesnt fit as nicely as it used too. i am working on ideas on how to move it back closer to the A/C radiator now...



brought an egay special TB, the theory was it would make hooking the barrel up easier if the TB was the same size. unfortunatly i have had a few problems with their design. its not quite a bolt on as advertised.



and just a sneek pic of what it should sort of end up looking like...