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How do I gt my Colt to bend reality at stoplights like that? Is it because you finally have a BOV?

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Who puts an Evo VII motor in a Colt? Oh yeah...

so wow, 10 months since the last update, so much has happened.

My first daughter was born in May last year, now 8 months old. As you can imagine she has taken up alot of my car time. I have also started a business, and my father got very, very sick. it has been a real juggling act trying to make any kind of progress, but thing have started to settle in the last few weeks.


soo lets start this update by saying, that if the sump on this car leaks again i will fruit and banana burn it!

*ahem*

you may recall i said;
Well that didn’t work. Turned out there was a hair line crack (another one) on the sump right around the timing belt. i tried gasket goo and liquid metal but it just kept leaking oil. the leak only really became apparent when revving the motor, the leak would spray down the left hand side, all over the wheel etc.

I also put the air inlet temp sensor in the intake manifold because of a lack of room to mount it between the barrel cooler and throttle body. if you look at the pictures there really is only a silicone bend between them, not really enough to get a boss welded for AIT sensor. But welding it into the intake manifold caused a problem where it would read correctly when the throttle was open (air running past the sensor) then when the throttle was close, the sensor would read 60deg+.

That was making tuning the car for drivability a pig of a job.

The last problem was the car had always overheated in the summer time when the ambient air temp was above around 34deg. The car only overheated when stationary though, never when moving.


So those three issues made me put tuning the car on the back burner. i have only managed to resolve them (i think) now.

First up, the sump. I really, really, really, really, really hate the sump on this car. There isn’t words i can write to express how much i hate it. Ever since i first took the stock sump off years ago, i have had problems with little persistent oil leaks from around the sump. Most of the leaks are because when removing the sump i use a metal spatula (or chisel) to break the gasket goo seal between the block and the sump. This violence bends the sumps flange and because its made of weak sauce, its cracks. Through the years i have had the cracks in the stock sump welded up numerous times. No matter how fussy i am, there always seems to one additional crack that leaks, FUUUUU!!!!

So the sump was leaking again. i thought if i was going to fix it i might as well buy a new sump. When looking at sumps the standard one was a similar price to a OBX sump of EBay. The OBX sump is basically a Moroso copy so i thought it would be a safer bet as the Moroso unit look really nice.

A week later it arrives, it still runs the stock two bolt turbo return line, me being me, fruit and banana that, its an oil leak risk. i get a AN fitting welded on, then proceed to put the sump on. well... it doesn’t fit, the welding is so crap and everything is so off square that it doesn’t clear the stock crank girdle or oil pick up!!!. i spent numerous hours with the grinder test fitting and grinding, but i eventually got it to fit.

Now i might point out, that through all of this test fitting and mucking about, the car is on axles stands, so I’m lying on my back, bugger all room trying to get everything sorted. im also getting old, so my bones like going all contortionist like they used too.

So i test fitted for the final time, gooped it all up and tightened all the studs up just enough to let the goo set over night. Came back the next morning to fit the turbo return line. I hadn’t used a AN fitting on the return before, i had just used some agricultural brass fitting from ENZED that did the job. I needed to get the hose length right between the turbo and the 45deg AN fitting. *i fruit and banana hate this* gah, while getting the hose length right, somehow the AN fitting got cross threaded.

Now, where the fitting is, there was no way in hell i was going to be able to run a die of over it. I had just let the gasket goo set over night and there was no way i keen to pull the sump off again. My only real option at that time was just the reef it on. (you can see where this is going?)

So i keep cross thread the oil return AN fitting on (which i might add is about $110 worth of fittings) and it gets tighter and tighter. Soon i've gone from a 4.5" shifter to a 13" shifter, to a 13" shifter plus a 18" mallet for additional beatings.

Cunt snaps the welded AN fitting of the sump!!!! (Surprise, I was beating it on with a mallet)

i still had the mallet in my hand so i started beating the crap off the attached sump. i fruit and banana hate sumps.
...
..
.


Long story short. i beat the sump good, but it didn’t die. i got a friend to take it off, because i couldn’t bear (beer?) looking at it. Took it back to get another AN fitting welded on (told a story about how the welders welding must not have been any good for it to snap off while i was doing it up).

It was actually, probably a good thing i did snap the AN fitting off and then removed the sump, as it appears the whole OBX sump is anodised. Gasket goo does NOT stick to anodise!

So in other words, if i didn’t fruit and banana it, it would have leaked and i would have set the car on fire!

I flapped disked the anodise off, gasket goo'd the sump on, and managed to get the turbo return line on with cocking anything up... for now.



Enough of that,

Next problem was the AIT sensor, this was easy'ish, and sorry no photos, but i basically just move it to the barrel cooler, basically where the silicone joiner is before the throttle body, under the barrel so where no one can see.


Lastly, the overheating on hot days.

Im pretty sure the reason the car was overheating when stopped was lack of air flow from the aftermarket slim line fans i was running. that and the additional heat created from the tubular exhaust manifold.

I had always wanted to keep my A/C as i thought it was a necessity in this climate, but the truth was because the car kept on overheating during hot days i had the heater on full trying too help cool the motor. My theory was that the A/C condenser was helping in causing some air flow restriction for the slim line fans, and that removing it would also give me room to install 2x 12" fans instead of the 1x 12" and 1x 10" i was previously running.

the new fans are setup where the A/C condenser was, i just made some mounting bracket to bolt to the existing condenser mounts.



I am determined to be able to enjoy this car during summer and something that always bugged me was how shit the heat wrapping on the manifold looked. So i got the manifold, turbine housing, dump pipe and waste gate screamer pipe all ceramic coated in the hope that will help a bit as well. I also had a new radiator custom made with some super-duper 11ty billion fins per inch yadda yadda.


I managed to get her all back together over the weekend just gone. all that is left is some engine oil and power steering fluid and she should be drivable again.





Time permitting, i am hoping to get her going in the coming weekend, then if she doesnt wind up tourched because of a oil sump leak, spend the next month or so doing some drivability tuning, then off for some power runs.

Keep up the good work
Certainly my prefered car !

Which size of barrel ?

I have sold my 4"X8" and look already for a 5"X8", i dont think if the 6"X8" fit with a scirocco radiator in a Colt engine bay...

would you believe its a 6"x 8"

there isnt alost of room, but as you can see, it does fit.

Thanks for reply !

I have received a 6"X6", so huge
I need to work on my setup now ...

Thanks again for your help