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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:25 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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I see lots of new replacement axles come with the completely round inner cups, where they were originally tripod in shape, with large scoops moulded in. Consequently outer cups come looking different too, every product and application comes in different so I cannot pinpoint any particular company up in the north here.

Measure the axle length fully compressed, and maybe we have a benchmark of sorts. Wish we knew what the center shaft length was for the driver side axle, original and the replacement ones.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 6:56 pm 
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Quote:
I see lots of new replacement axles come with the completely round inner cups, where they were originally tripod in shape, with large scoops moulded in. Consequently outer cups come looking different too, every product and application comes in different so I cannot pinpoint any particular company up in the north here.

Measure the axle length fully compressed, and maybe we have a benchmark of sorts. Wish we knew what the center shaft length was for the driver side axle, original and the replacement ones.
You spoke too soon :)

Let the Mirage turbo axle comparo begin..

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90 Mirage LIL EVO 940awhp
14 Audi R8 V10
07 LS460L, 01 LS430
13 Tundra TRD S/C, 96 T100
96 Land Cruiser GT35R


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 10:58 pm 
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So that's where they all went.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 8:46 am 
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Nope.

2 sets at my place. 1 stuck in the mail system right now.


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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Passenger side

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90 Mirage LIL EVO 940awhp
14 Audi R8 V10
07 LS460L, 01 LS430
13 Tundra TRD S/C, 96 T100
96 Land Cruiser GT35R


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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 12:55 pm 
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I still find it odd that you have such little clearance with your axles. :rolleyes:

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:21 am 
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Quote:

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Used axle pictured: driver side 1.6L turbo, Carquest rds 3229 - new p/n 410059

Am I the only one that had to grind down the frame/control arm area right where the driver side axle boot rubs on it? Did the 1.6L chassis have more clearance there?
I know this is an older post and all, but I seem to be having the same issue as Jason.
I think I might have to do the same custom frame grinding on my "92 mirage SE hatch, I was attempting to use a "90 1g dsm awd half shaft on the drivers side, along with a 1g awd drivers side axle, I'm using a 1g fwd dsm trans, and I swapped in my 4G63T motor, but for some reason the inner boot contacts the frame and tears the boot, my question is did using the "89 GT drivers side axle fix your problem Jason? or do I still have to grind the frame?

I have urethane inserts that I could install, but not sure if it will solve the issue, I'm using elantra mounts for the motor all around, and expo knuckles.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 2:07 pm 
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No, I still ground it down. Been fine ever since.

I'm not sure if my engine alignment was a little off or too low or what when I originally did the engine mounts. The one thing I did realize is my crank bolt is not accessible through the access hole. I have to drop the engine down to get the crank bolt out. The crank bolt lined up with the hole when using the 1.5L engine. Not sure if that's the same with 1.6L cars.

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90 Mirage LIL EVO 940awhp
14 Audi R8 V10
07 LS460L, 01 LS430
13 Tundra TRD S/C, 96 T100
96 Land Cruiser GT35R


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 3:04 pm 
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My crank bolt does not line up either, nor did the 1992ish Elantra (4g67/4g61) I pulled an engine harmonic pulley off of. That second part aside, maybe if there are no engine tilt issues/mount issues, there is a difference in the lower crossmember/frame areas where they change "the mold" so to speak, and the lower control arm frame got a different shape during the end of the production run? So far, no issues with turbo cars (C53A 1989) at least in hatch form, with axle and lower frame clearance. I showed that earlier in case anyone wanted a visual as compared to LilEvo's photo right in the same area.

I did go over my mounts which do have inserts as installed by another user, and made sure they lined up exactly as they should with no change to clearance in the frame/axle clearance areas. I did compare from what I recall and even re-checked visually online, that what I put on was just like what I took off.
If the engine is flat going left to right and has the correct tilt front to back, then what you have installed is correct, for anyone checking their motor/trans alignment. Would be nice to get a ball park figure of where a Mitsu engine cover sits in relation to a flat edge across the strut tower bolts. Kind of like measuring the distance or gap between a strut bar and the cover, at multiple points, thus confirming paralellism. If you are parallel and flat, then size of axle cup and or more importantly the size and shape of the frame can be called into question. My thoughts so far.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:16 pm 
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Thanks a million guys, I know if I'm having this issue more then likely someone else will in the future, hence why I sought out a post that already had the issue discussed a bit. Thanks again gentlemen.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:15 pm 
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well i have another theory might be false but I'd rather share it then keep it to myself because if I'm having the problem, and i'm sure someone else eventually will, so my new theory is the driver side timing belt tensioner bracket that the rubber timing mount gets bolted to might be too tall, I looked online at pictures of the 4g63t brackets, and then the 4g61t tensioner arm bracket, the one that is bolted to the block, and I sort of see a little under 1/2 inch gap in between the mount on the 4g61t ones, which would indeed push the motor up more on the driver side when compared to the 4g63t, which seems to position it down I know I could just cut the frame like Jason did, but I'll save that as my last resort, I also looked online and I discovered that the 1.6 4g61t motor does not share the same part number for the bracket, which would indicate that they are indeed different then the 6 bolt dsm ones, if anyone has a way to compare these it may help the next few 4g63 swap people, that may run into this issue, I'm going to mess around with this a bit further and update with any info that I find, I may have a suitable bracket in my spares, or I might get the Hyundai G4CR equivalent.

[link to the bracket I'm talking about for reference] https://stmtuned.com/products/tensioner ... shi-1g-dsm

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 1:19 am 
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Imageimage hosting free well after comparing these 2 brackets side by side I think my theory may hold some weight after all, I will update if this ends up fixing my inner axle boot clearance problem, i'm not 100% sure what car I pulled the bracket from i think it was off of a Hyundai 1.6.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 11:01 pm 
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Well, that would tilt the motor for sure! If the other three mounts are sound and at the proper height, then you should be able to put a level on the engine and come out with a severe lean at the driver side.

Never seen those parts compared before. That being said, there are many people that use the Hyundai L mount, but it was never discussed that there could be a difference in height at the engine mounting side of the equation.


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