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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:22 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Okay so you all likely know by now that I have plans to swap 2 3g csms in the future I have 1 project already on dsmtuners, and I want to share my other project with the csm community here, so heres the story so far...
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the car is a "91 Dodge Colt GL 4G15 1.5 12 valve, with the F3A21 3 speed transmission [non P/S] has A/C.

this car already has some mods from the the PO [previous owner] he did the Galant vr4 2 piston caliper upgrade with front stainless lines, and a 1g brake Master cylinder, and the car is running lancer OZ rims, 1g awd dsm front and rear struts [to be honest I think I'm going to have to replace the rear ones soon] the fronts have rather harsh and firm universal lowering springs mounted on them, he also installed a stock appearing Hyundai excel tubular exhaust manifold [vary nice mod 8)], now you can see why I could not let it go to the wreckers, so I bargained with the owner, and reassured him I was going to build it... so the PO delivered the car to me [barely it was running on 3 cylinders] but he also delivered a lot of nice extras with the car, he was planing on swapping it to a manual, so he included everything to do the swap, clutch pedal, 1g turbo fwd trans, clutch hydraulics lines etc, along with a complete 1g dsm 4 bolt rear, a rare set of "89 colt gt rear calipers, brackets, hubs, front and rear drilled/slotted rotors, a 1g ecu wire harness and a whole slew of parts im still sorting through lol.
Imageupload image onlineImage
I did a lot of maintenance on this car when I got it the motor had low compression on cylinder #4 so I knew I would need a new motor for the colt, so I got lucky on a half off day, and found a low mileage 4G15 12 valve jdm import motor I hauled it home in my mirage, got it at a pick n pull yard, and I honestly had no idea it was a jdm one when it was at the yard, it was not until I got it home, and cleaned up some, that I had noticed it had the import motor markings on it, plus when I pulled the valve cover it was spotless in there compared to the older motor...
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[image above] me changing the fuel filter [after I pulled the motor].
Imageupload pictures
I did a lot of maintenance on the new motor, changed oil and filter, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt and tensioner, water pump, thermostat.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Mon May 21, 2018 5:19 am, edited 6 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:45 am 
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My plans for now are to swap in "89 colt GT rear disc brakes in the Colt, below is some images of my progress.
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the calipers that the PO left me with were old and kinda rusty, so I ordered a set of rebuilt ones, and used the old ones as cores, the above image is after I prepped and painted them I also bought 4 new grade 8 bolts and lock washers for the caliper brackets, the thread size/ pitch is M10x1.25 and the lock washers are obviously 10mm.
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I also started painting the rear "89 gt hubs, and I wanted to do the job right, so I bought a new set of 8 rear lug studs, Part number 610-414 thread size M12-1.50
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I also scored another set of expo knuckles that need to be cleaned up for the colt, thats on the to do list.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Mon May 21, 2018 5:37 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 1:16 pm 
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Very nice!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 12:37 pm 
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These pictures bring back memories of this past season spent degreasing, blasting, painting, and assembling bearings. Haha, good to see another knuckle set getting prepped for road use again.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 7:16 pm 
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Thanks for the kind words fellas, I'm only using the best after-market parts I can source, I picked up the national bearings, for the rear "89 GT hubs, they were made in japan part number 516000 [you need 4 to do both sides].

And here's a cool tip for other guys on here doing the rear hub, I know you usually replace the inner seals along with the bearings, but I discovered [after ruining 1 via screw driver :lol:]you can save the inner seal by putting the hub in a vice, and pounding on the inner bearing with a socket until it comes out , as opposed to prying on the seal with, a pick, screw driver,etc... using this method leaves you with a 50/50 chance of damaging the inner bearing [when pounding it out], but if your replacing it anyway it does not matter, and in case you are wondering I did not damage my inner bearing doing it this way, but its worth mentioning my inner bearing still had a gob of grease on it, likely acting as a barrier, my old ones were not bad per say, but peace of mind :lol:.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:50 am 
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Some more updates, the new rear slotted rotors [came with the car: pictured below]
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I painted the rear oem disc brake brackets... I really wanted to powder coat them, but my air compressor is woefully inadequate for this, so the next best thing is to apply rust proof primer, and high temp caliper paint.
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Because I was missing a few key ingredients for the "89 GT rear disc brake swap [thankfully they are not GT only rare parts], so I went to the local pick n pull wrecking yard for some parts.

I got lucky and found a 1g "90-"94 fwd dsm in a yard, and I pulled the parts I needed.
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you need 2 of each of these little clips for both e brake cables, I know it's obvious, and should go without saying, but they are vary easy to loose or overlook, especially when pulling them off at the wrecking yards [the upper one in my hand in the picture above, is the e brake swing arm retaining clip, and the lower one in the pic above is the retaining clip for the e-brake cable bracket, you likely wont get new clips with a set of after-market e brake cables [or the calipers... or at least mine didn't :lol:] P/S also make sure you get the, L shaped E brake cable mounting bracket [bolted on to the caliper by 1 14mm bolt], and don't forget you will need the hydraulic banjo bolt and fitting for the rear calipers, because that also didn't come with my rebuilt calipers ether, however new crush washers did :D .

I also sourced a decent set of e-brake cables.
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I also pulled the inside e brake adjuster cable that gets attached to the parking brake handle, I hope this all works out, I have heard that they work good for fellow members so should be okay.


I decided to tear down my expo knuckles, and get them ready for a rebuild...and yes I did it without a press, "would I do it again" HECK NO! :lol: but i have proved that with enough tools, and a family or friends you can get it all apart.
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I used a ball joint c clamp, and a bunch of improvised jigs to press the hub out, and to remove the race thats on the hub I used a gear separator and a lot of wd40 was used to make it go easier... yeah I think I'm going to have to buy a mini harbor fright press, I have enough of these expo hubs to warrant purchasing the proper tool for the job.
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Notice: The expo rotors are vented, I think I'll put them to use on my other csm, before swapping in the twin pot setup [which I can't install just yet, because I need to source another set of lancer OZ rims, in order to clear the 2 piston calipers] I love the ride quality of the OZ rims over the stock 13inch pizza cutter rims.

I ordered a set of 1g awd dsm agx adjustable rear struts, and I intend to install them during the rear disc swap.
More updates soon.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Thu May 09, 2019 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2016 8:22 pm 
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http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-fr ... -1666.html
I got my hands on the 6 ton shop press[see link above]...my thoughts its a good press for small things...but an expo knuckle is not a large thing per say, but it won't fit into it without modifying the press, [Side note: I hated how the upper 6 ton ram has no bolts to secure it to the frame properly :o , it fell out more times then I dare count :cry: ] the real reason I even gave this joke press a chance was because garage space is kinda limited, and If I can keep the space free I will...
so I exchanged it for this one http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-sho ... 33497.html
much better press for the money I'd dare to say it's too much tool for the job at hand [and the ram is bolted into the frame securely on the 12 ton ram], and I think I might be able to rebuild a mitsu trans with it :lol:.

Too bad I can't save the garage space, what ever, I guess I have to make more room for my future air compressor, yet again :lol:, right now the 12 ton HF press is sitting where I was planing on putting my future air compressor unit...I guess now thinking about it, I might opt to make a small shed like enclosure for an air compressor outside my garage, that might be more beneficial to my ears in the long run, who knows how loud it's going to get.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 5:01 pm 
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Image
I bought some new, 1g dsm awd rear, agx adjustable shocks for the red rocket, I also sourced some, 4th/5th gen mirage, Megan lowering springs... The specs on the springs on the Internet part # MR-LS-MM92
according to specs 2" drop in the front at 335 lb ,1.9" drop for the rear at 250 lb. not sure If I'm going to use them might be worth a try but I'm going to use the stock, 1g awd dsm ones first, just to see what they handle like.

Update: well my first impressions are in, the agx adjustable shocks make the car handle vary sports car like, I set the struts damping level to 4, the setup could use some work it's better then it was before, no wheel scrubbing so far, I'll update if this changes.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Thu May 09, 2019 7:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:24 pm 
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I got started on the rear disc swap.
Imageprint screen windows 7
Got the rear calipers/brackets all mocked up, just to see how it would all work together...
I pulled some rear, stock rubber, 1g dsm rear caliper hoses, and I carefully bent the hard line into an s shape and all the hydraulic lines worked together [future plans include sourcing rear stainless lines..or having them custom made].

I installed the 1G fwd dsm e-brake cables [1G awd cables are shorter so I'm not sure if they will work] I had to pull the rear seat cushion out, also the rear section of the center shifter console was removed, and so to was the center seat belt retractors, all in order to gain access to the parking brake handle, and the cable equalizer.

I also discovered that the "89 mirage gt caliper spring loaded swing arms are different then the 1g dsm rear caliper swing arms, namely the gt ones have a skinnier parking brake cable and mount, and the dsm calipers have a larger gap on the swing arms so match the cables to the calipers... or you will have to separate the swing arms [on "89 gt rear calipers] to fit dsm e-brake cables, or [better option] swap the swing arms to the larger gapped dsm ones, they will interchange, and thats what I did.

Imageimage
The e-brake cable mounts on the dsm cables all pretty much worked, in place of the csm ones, but there was an e-brake cable mount bracket on the csm cables that for sure I had to use [pictured above], I also had to extract the csm's, rubber, e-brake cable firewall grommet, and put them on the dsm cables.

I had to modify where the e-brake cables were mounted inside the car [ located before the parking brake handle and welded to the floor pan] in order to get the stock csm stops to accept the larger 1G dsm cables, round shaped, cable stops I simply separated both of them, with a large screwdriver, and then I slid the round dsm stops in, and then lightly pounded the outside with a hammer to get them reshaped round again.[ if I have pictures of the finished product I'll upload them here]

And finally I maxed out my parking brake adjuster, I set it to it's taught-est setting... it may need further modifications, but so far, it looks good to me.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 1:34 am 
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I got to say I love the rear discs, they are a really good upgrade, I can feel a big difference in stopping power, and I like the fact that weight transfer has been reduced significantly, the car used to do a kind of boat float, back and forth when coming to a stop, now it's a lot more refined, the only draw back I see is the parking brake now has to be pulled a lot more to fully hold the car in place, so I need to further mod the parking brake adjuster.

well now, after a successful test drive, I tore into the brakes all over again, why you may ask, well I want to make sure this car is setup right for me, so I'm swapping the master cylinder and the booster, the previous owner installed a 1g master and left the stock colt 3.5.1 ratio booster, and while I don't particularly hate the way the car stops, I have a few options to look over now, I think a 92-95 Elantra or a 4g booster would be a better match for my setup...I'm also looking at 3000gt vr4 boosters.

I also do not like how the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir is zip tied, to the fuel filter fitting, so I plan on using a 1 1/16th inch [2000-2005 eclipse/galant] also same as the evo 8-9 master cylinder with the reservoir mounted on the master, ahem that is if the air filter canister will clear the reservoir[update it does], if not I'll just mod it and go remote mount... but I'll mount it correctly to the fire wall somewhere :lol:.

I also have a much bigger proportioning valve to try out too.

Update: okay I got booster/master setup together and mounted, and the air box barley clears the evo fluid reservoir, this colt will be the first guinea pig, on testing this booster, so I'm going to keep the details to myself, just until the results are in, I also coupled this with a different proportioning valve, I'll share all the info and get more pictures on here after I throughly test the setup myself, why get you all exited for nothing:lol:.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Thu Dec 15, 2016 3:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 2:46 am 
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I had a set of stainless rear brake lines custom made for the rear disc swap, I had them make me 2 foot long hoses with m10 fittings for both sides, to be honest they were a little too long but got away with routing them to the dsm rear shock mounts.

{Time Saving Tip: Thread the stainless lines into the brake caliper first, then install them to the hard line.}
Imagewindows 7 screenshot
vary decent price too $58. for both of them, I'm definitely having them make me another set when the time comes.
http://www.clutchbrakexchange.com

I also found out my drivers side front cv axle boot was torn and all wobbly :rolleyes:
so I swapped it out.
Imagehow to use print screen
I hated having to do this... only because I know I'm going to be in there again to swap in the expo knuckles, but safety was my main motivating factor so I did it the car is finally back on the ground all 4 wheels are bled and my new booster,master, brake lines, and proportioning valve are installed, and it's time for a test drive.

Also on a side note the 3g Eclipse/8Th gen galant 1/16 brake master clears the air cleaner but barely
, I installed it normally, but I wish I flipped the reservoir around [I tested this on another one I had, and it is physically possible to do flip them around], I feel it's a must, because the screw on cap wont come off unless you pull the air can lid... so I might do that when I fine adjust the brake booster some more, I also had to extend the brake warning sensor connector... so I made a patch harness/ wire extender for the brake fluid level sensor warning switch.

Also just for those of you that don't know you have to ether use adapters, or make a custom hard line, in order to use the 1/16 master on a csm, because the lines are bubble flare on the 1/16 master, and our csm stock lines are inverted.
Imageimage hosting 30 mb

Found a 1998 sonata at a wrecking yard...I might go back and pull the booster from this if my Idea ends up stupid lol
Imagefree image hosting

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:34 pm 
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Not much has happened since I got my rear disc swap finished on the Colt, mainly because I've been rigging up my new air compressor...I have been saving funds for a while to get it, but now that it's here I can offer better condition parts for you guys to buy on here, and better complete my own projects...well once it's all setup :lol: I'm still wiring it in, and making it a roofed outdoor enclosure [kinda outhouse sized] to A: Keep noise away from my ears B: Keep the elements away from the unit, I intend to add sound suppressant into the walls of the enclosure to keep noise levels even lower.

while all the air compressor stuff was going on, stuff that I ordered had showed up.
Imagescreen shots
ImageImage
I ordered these NOS EDM side markers last month.

Some cool pictures from last summer in preparation for the colts future 4G63 swap, I pulled this from a non turbo 1gb 7 bolt, and I brought it home in my mirage... By a csm for a csm :lol:.
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more updates soon.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Mon May 21, 2018 5:20 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 3:07 pm 
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Looking good man. Always liked those EU amber corner lights.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 8:17 am 
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Thanks akdriverjd.

I tested the car out finally with all brake mods, and this is after I broke in the brakes fully, and yes indeed the car has better stopping physics, there is a marked improvement in key areas, there is less front to rear weight transfer when stopping or on panic stops, and more importantly, brake pedal feel is a lot less hard, compared to the stock booster [with dsm Master cylinder] that the previous owner had installed, and it feels more like a modern cars brake pedal, I may need to adjust the boosters push rod more, I'll share the info on the booster I used, I pulled it out of an all wheel disc 2006 Hyundai Elantra GT, I think the booster ratio is at least 4.5.1 or better I'm not positive, the bolt spacing on the booster is the same as on a 3g csm, and the booster bolt length and push rod hardware fits perfect in the 3g csm too [the "06 Elantra even used a spacer too it's plastic... instead of being like the metal 3g csm one]
...Initially I wanted to use a 3RD gen Mitsubishi Eclipse GT brake booster and master, but the bolts on the booster were way too short to secure it to the 3g csm frame so to are 1g and 2g dsm boosters, so I had to figure something out...I wanted at least a 4.1 ratio booster on my csm, my guess is I have is anywhere between 4.5-7.0 ratio based on what boosters Hyundai had used on their disc setups around that time frame, but to be completely honest, I'm not sure how to do the math to figure out what the booster ratio really is...

To recap all parts used, below is a list of what I all used.
1:"91-"92 Galant vr4 front and rear drilled 4 lug rotors [came with the car].
2:"91-"94 Mitsu 3000GT/ Dodge Stealth/Mitsu Diamante/ front twin piston brake calipers and brake pads.
3: "90-"94 1G dsm E brake cables brackets, rear brake calipers / brake pads
4: "00-"05 3G v6 Mitsu Eclipse brake proportioning valve, and brake master cylinder [ Note: I had to make custom hard brake lines to adapt the 3G eclipse master cylinder, the lines on a 3G eclipse, are bubble flare, and on the csms/dsms, and many early mitsu cars, the lines are mostly inverted flare, just thought I'd put this here]
5: Custom stainless steel brake lines [at all 4 corners].
6: "06 Hyundai Elantra GT [all wheel disc model] brake booster and I'm using it's plastic booster spacer.

My next plan will be to swap in the expo knuckle to help eliminate the bump steer.
I will also have to get another set of Yoshifab camber plates, or maybe slot my front struts [to adjust the camber on the cheep] ether way works, but I think I'll go with Yoshifab for the added reliability of a solid upper metal strut mount instead of worrying about the old rubber ones.

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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Tue Jan 24, 2017 8:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 12:43 pm 
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Dude, that is a lot of great info!

Keep it coming .... as budget allows of course!


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