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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 12:46 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:03 am
Posts: 252
Location: Auburn, AL
Hey all. I’ve been a lurker for a LONG time here. This is my first build thread ever.

Before I begin, I would like to thank all of you who have continually posted here, explored the various modifications that can be done to the CSM platform (and the wagons!) and who keep this forum alive. Some names come to mind: FlyingEagle, Lancerman, 89MirageMan, boostfreak (or whatever you go by ;)), Natedogg, Biglady112, LilEvo, etc,… there are too many to name. None of you know me (except Nate) but I have read your threads for years and appreciate you guys keeping this place alive. You are all an inspiration!

That said, cliff notes on the car. Had it for years – Natedogg owned it and sold it to my friend. I traded a set of 1000cc injectors for it and have kept it ever since. 89 Original Turbo Mirage.

I have pictures of when I first received the car, but can’t find them. I didn’t do anything besides drag it from Alabama to Georgia to let it sit in storage…

Pics of the car:
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I dragged it to Tennessee with me so I could start on it. The first thing I tackled was the roof rust that all original turbo cars are plagued with:

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This is the glue responsible for the roof rust…

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Cutting the roof to remove the rust…

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Here’s the result of all the cutting:

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Once I removed the areas where it was rusting through, I used a shop vac to remove all the rust from inside the layers of sheet metal that make up the B-pillars and where the rood joins. As a southern car, there is no more rust to deal with.

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End result. Of course I used a grinder to take the rest of the rust out before using POR 15.

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I also needed to remove the roof supports.

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Then I used POR-15 to ensure no more rust would develop.

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Then I worked on the seats. The seams were busted, otherwise everything seemed to be in good order.

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Then I cleaned the covers in my bathtub and coated the seat frames with rustoleum.

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Now, I still have the seats and have repaired some of the seams, but I have not completed that part. Instead, I have a spare set of Evo VIII seats I intend to use in the Mirage…. But I am still going to finish the original seats and perhaps use them or sell them if I want to keep the Evo seats (likely).

Next, since the original sound deadening material had been removed, I used goo-off or some sort of goo-removing aerosol spray to remove the residue. I like how it turned out.

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Since all these pictures I moved and also deployed to Africa for a little bit. Now I have to move again and that has motivated me to get some progress made on the car.

The original plans for the car were to use a stock 6-bolt motor that I have in storage with a small 16g. Plans changed drastically and I made a deal with my wife to sell my ’88 Conquest and build the mirage to be a high HP street car. End goal is a 6466 or better – forward facing setup with AC and power steering. I bought a built shortblock from a friend of mine who made over 650HP in his GVR4 and I dropped it in the mirage with a built head I had.

I used some MAP H11 12mm head studs I had in a box somewhere.

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I needed new struts and bushings which I ordered off RockAuto. I love that website!

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I also ordered some new wheel bearings and seals from Autozone. Because of the great research many of you have done, I knew using GVR4 or DSM hubs was not what I wanted. Instead, I opted to use the original CSM hubs, GVR4 rotors and DSM big brakes as my brake setup. I had the hubs machined at my local machine shop to convert from the captive rotor. I still need to make 6mm spacers for the calipers.

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And this is where I’m at! The motor is in the car with, I believe, incorrect engine mount brackets, but at least it’s there. I intend to install the turbo kit and intake manifold, and then remove the engine from the chassis to install the timing belt side of things. After that, it’ll go back in and I’ll start working on the intake/intercooler system, exhaust and wiring.

Here’s the build list for the car:
- Crackhead-deal 6-bolt block, Eagle/Wiseco combo built by a local machine shop.
- Old Slowboy Racing 6-bolt head, ported, bronze guides, with stock cams and HKS springs. ( I robbed some BC 280’s and BC springs for my DSM back in the day. I will install some big cams and beehive springs later on.)
- FP Manifold, ported and ceramic coated
- Big 16g built by *me* with homebrew recirculated tubular O2 housing
- stock intake manifold
- 3G MAS
- FIC 1000’s - Old school off my DSM.
- Walbro E85 400LPH
- SS fuel lines from my old AWD (6-an feed)
- DSMlink 2.5 off my DSM before I went V3 on it. I will upgrade this to V3 and Speed Density after I get her running.
- FWD trans – I intend to go AWD in the future.
- ACT chromoly flywheel. ACT Clutch (2100 or 2600 – I have both PP’s. Not sure what I want to do right now)

There’s some other stuff but that’s the gist of it.


Any and all comments and recommendations are appreciated! Hope you guys enjoy the build.

_________________
2003 Evo, 89 Mirage Turbo, 88 Conquest 4G64


Last edited by 92 gsr-4 on Thu Sep 21, 2017 10:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
I remember this car, love the 80's style TURBO decals! Thanks for the props. I just wish I had more time to work on car projects but I'm sure all of us can say that. Life has a way of throwing other things at you though.

Please keep this thread updated. We need to go back to the good ol' days when this forum had regular updates on builds. I really miss that. Great job so far with what you've done.

_________________
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 4:36 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 1154
Location: Anderson, IN
+1 to what Chris said, keep us updated!

Looks like you are off to a really good start. My car was a blast fwd with a 16g.

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92 Colt GL 4g63t + AWD swap
00 Mirage LS


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 8:02 am
Posts: 1259
Location: Hartselle, Alabama
Woot! Its still around! This is awesome!

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49 International KB-2
72 Dodge Colt
73 Dodge Colt
92 Talon AWD Auto - Best Friends Car... I miss you my friend.
99 Montero Non Sport


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 10:11 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:03 am
Posts: 252
Location: Auburn, AL
Aaron I always love 16g cars! I already know the FWD is going to be lame so I plan to AWD swap it eventually.

"Turbo" decal will stay. I would love to take more time and paint it, but that will have to wait. This car has sat for so long it would be an injustice to not get her running already. I'll paint it up eventually.

Progress in the last few days: rebuilt front hubs, put together front struts, ordered new "big brake" calipers, installed FP exhaust manifold, put new timing pulleys/tensioner in, modified engine to accept the Saturn/GM-style alternator.

Let me say this: I will never grind on the engine while it's in the car ever again! Although I had the engine well covered and there was no risk of metal getting in, the metal shavings got all over the engine bay! I'll pull the engine next time. Just not worth doing it in the car....

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Installed cams. They are stock 1G MT cams for now. I am thinking hard about snagging the GSC S2's out of the Evo to swap in here. Had to pull a cam gear because it's so tight to the engine mount.

Speaking of engine mounts I'm pretty sure I have the correct timing belt side mount but the front/rear motor brackets I have are from a DSM. I can't use the rear bracket at all right now so I am going to cut that one and make it shorter and re-drill to mate with the rear roll stop.

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More updates coming when I get the front suspension installed.

_________________
2003 Evo, 89 Mirage Turbo, 88 Conquest 4G64


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 6:36 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:20 am
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Location: Anderson, IN
The front and rear brackets need to be from a turbo car or a Hyundai elantra that had a 4g engine.

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92 Colt GL 4g63t + AWD swap
00 Mirage LS


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 4:20 am
Posts: 311
Location: Turlock, California
Looks sick man, I love the oz rims I got them on all my csms lol

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Abe


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 10:34 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:03 am
Posts: 252
Location: Auburn, AL
Aaron, your build thread is one of the best, man. Definitely gives me lot of ideas and I can't wait to get to a place where I can dedicate more time to make mine nice.

Abe, thanks man. I like them a lot, too. Funny story on the rims: I was next to a guy at a redlight in his Lancer OZ Rally sitting on 22's and just yelled at him out my window to see if he had his stock rims. $200 later they were in the back of my truck! I just need to figure out what color I want them to be.

Quick explanation of the car and where I'm at: I named the car the "Pain Train Del Slow Killer" as a running joke with a good friend of mine who owns a B18 Del Sol that makes 560 to the wheels. The actual goal for my car is to race him heads up and win. Before I picked up the built shortblock I have there now, the original plan for the car was a junkyard 6-bolt I have with a s16g, stock cams, etc. to make a nice and fun daily. Plans changed, so now it's "Race car with luxury" because I never go without power steering or AC. Just to get the car running I am slapping everything in there. Once I get moved to my new house and have more time I will break it all down and paint it. I just need to get it together first.

Pics of my friend Tim's Del Sol. It is really nice and he also owns a Porsche Cayman S which is my Evo's rival (street cars). My goal for the Evo is a completely stock-feeling car that's faster than his Porsche!

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Quick updates on the build. I've had really bad luck with parts shipment and two packages have been lost in the mail. So I am waiting for one brake caliper and a set of sway bar bushings. I did get the flywheel, clutch and transmission installed. The flywheel is an ACT chromoly and the clutch is an ACT 2100. It's perfect for now but will obviously be upgraded later down the road.

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I also picked up this seal at Autozone which fit my F5M33 transmission and accepts the AWD intermediate shaft. The FWD axle seal had too large of an inner diameter which would have caused a leak.

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Next, once the transmission was on, I installed the trans mount. I *think* the one i used is correct but need you guys to confirm for me.

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I removed the front engine bracket because it is from a DSM and Aaron informed me I need the CSM brackets. This really sucks because I thought I had them but can't find the front/rear rollstop brackets anywhere. I installed the transmission mount so now the engine is held in by it and the timing belt mount. This straightened the engine up nicely. Once I get the other brackets I'll be in business.

One issue I noticed is my shifter cables are WAY too long. They must be out of a DSM also because there's no way it will work. Maybe you guys can shed some light on that also.

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I painted one of my calipers. Just need the other side! I need to get a set of SS lines for the front - what did you guys use? I have 99 GSX brakes - brake line attaches with banjo bolt.

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....and this is the current state of my garage. Pitiful and needs to be cleaned. Once I get the suspension and brakes installed I'm cleaning that place out!

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_________________
2003 Evo, 89 Mirage Turbo, 88 Conquest 4G64


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 4:20 am
Posts: 311
Location: Turlock, California
I just so happened to have pulled some Elantra 1.6 mounts with there brackets, if you want any of them let me know, as for the shifter cables you need to use the csm cables and modify the trans shifter arms to work with them.

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Abe


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:36 am 
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
You have the correct trans mount. I was going to say hit up Mitsubishikid on the mounts. He has access to some 3g's in his local yards. If you have a welder and can fabricate I can walk you through how to modify that rear DSM mount. Uweenukr (or whatever his screen name was) did it on his car back in the day. Might still be some pics in his build thread, not sure.

For front brake lines seems like somebody said Hyundai scoupe or excel lines work. They have the female on one end and banjo bolt hole on the other. If you'd like to ditch the 3 piece brake like setup I've used 97+ Diamante lines with no problem. Just have to get creative on attaching them to the strut.

_________________
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 1154
Location: Anderson, IN
Thanks for the kind words I appreciate it.

And I was going to answer some questions but everyone beat me too it. lol

_________________
92 Colt GL 4g63t + AWD swap
00 Mirage LS


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 5:46 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:03 am
Posts: 252
Location: Auburn, AL
Thanks for all the comments. I knew I would have some questions about this build. I was in DSM's for a decade and knew this would be different! The CSM stuff is specific in terms of motor mounts....although I do have a welder I would prefer to buy the factory mounts for the car. Mitsubishikid, you have PM.

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2003 Evo, 89 Mirage Turbo, 88 Conquest 4G64


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Great to be included in the fray of names that pop up here continually as things progress and follow the due course.

So many people help make this place happen.

Okay, so to help out a little, it should be mentioned that any CSM front and rear roll stop mount can be used to keep the 4g15 and 4g6x motors in place with the north/south sub frame bar. Not just the turbo and Elantra stuff. Back me up here guys but those are the two universal parts when it comes to the four mounts. Elantra or CSM for the timing side. DSM and GVR4 won't work due to frame height/distance issues.

I used factory GVR4 OEM front lines on my struts and they are the same dimension as the CSM in this regard. So, maybe looking at off the shelf options from Technafit (what I used but ordered custom for the rear setup using coilovers) with their GVR4 options would be a good idea. The big brakes are similar between many cars and the lines carry similar if not identical dimensions when you compare the strut to frame distances. Technafit uses point to point measurement across the entire length of a brake line, so that includes the end of the tips of the fittings, not just the "tube" portions.

P.S. Love the build and I still have a picture somewhere of the turbo sticker that is on this car and I thought may have been crushed. If this is an original turbo car and it hasn't been added, feel free to message me for/with details. I haven't looked at the listing in a while, but it only takes a minute to check.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:43 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Posts: 311
Location: Turlock, California
Tim is right about the rubber mounts, but IIRC the rear 4G15 mount bracket needs spacers in order to sit flush on a 4G63T block, but you can use it with spacers or welding etc, or get a Hyundai rear motor mount bracket, or any dohc 3g csm rear mount bracket will work without mods, front mount brackets on a 4G15 are the same as the dohc mounts, as far as I can tell, Timing mount 92-95 elantra or dohc 3g csm mount will work with a 4G63.

Keep at it man, good progress so far... ...kinda sucks that photo bucket is ransoming your photos on here :-? .

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Abe


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:13 pm 
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If you add a spacer to the 4G15 rear engine bracket a new hole will have to be drilled as well. Not saying you can't wedge the bolt in there and it not work, just saying it won't be perfect.

_________________
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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