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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 6:40 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Location: Turlock, California
speaking of shifters, I recently had to restore one, and I know it's a manual shifter, but most of you guys don't give a Dandelion Yellow Colt for the auto swap guys anyway :lol:, I did this on my car and recently did this for a fellow member on here, so I did a video of my cheep method to help fix shifter play.
https://youtu.be/RDa3tW3m3-c

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:03 pm 
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Good video, mine where completely gone. Luckily I have a buddy with a lathe and he turned me a new bushing from aluminum that worked great.

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92 Colt GL 4g63t + AWD swap
00 Mirage LS


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:53 pm 
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That's exactly how I make the ebrake conversion parts on my rear disc conversions. Chuck up a 1/4-20 bolt in my drill with the head cut off, thread on a 1/4-20 x 7/8's coupling nut and run it against my wheel on the bench grinder. It rounds the corners and turns it into a barrel within minutes. Great minds think alike 8) .

I'm going to try the shifter fix too. I have a 97 Galant shifter that could use rebuilding so we'll see.

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95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 5:20 pm 
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I say go for it Chris you got nothing to loose... ...Maybe a trip to a hardware store, $3-$5 in plumbing pipe, no more sloppy feeling shifts :lol:. I know how hard and expensive these bushings can get, I sent AD a shifter base that I rebuilt using a bushing I made just like in the video, I hope he enjoys many years of service from it and reports back his impressions :D .

I took the red rocket out for some fun the other day, I got a full set of 4 toyo proxies tires, they have a lot of grip for the money.
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Last edited by mitsubishikid on Wed Apr 24, 2019 5:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 5:38 pm 
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Location: Boulder Creek, California / Kremmling, Colorado
More on the topic of those shifter bushings, I found this at my local Ace hardware. Could be another option if you can turn it on a lathe to correct thickness. I imagine the brass might hold up well, especially with a dab of grease, or dry graphite lube.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:48 pm 
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Knowing that this thread gets lots of views and given I would say this anyways, be aware that JNzTuning.net, Rtmracing.com, Partsouq.com and Amayama.com can get you the shifter bushings all day long. There are other US companies that can get them from Mitsu also and likely stock them too.
I bet you 99.9% of the shifters and the complete pivot mechanisms on the road from this era of Mitsu's are all in need of at least 75% of the rebuild parts for the entire base/interior assembly and the outside trans mount portions too. Trust me when I say I just drove a Colt turbo in need of a complete shifter system overhaul and it was MF'ing night and day difference in how the trans feels/shifts with no doubt saving syncros at the same time with proper shift speeds and no excessive weighted knobs. Also, be sure to consider a braided stainless line for heavier than stock clutch plate feel/pressures, as this also improves engagement point and overall system efficiency to save syncros and time shifts better.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:22 am 
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I used the complete stainless clutch line, from clutch master to slave cylinder, this was on my 3G mirage, the one I used was the STM unit designed for the 1g dsms, it fits the stock mirage perfectly.

I agree that if you want to use oem, or it's more convenient for you, go for it, I just wanted to share an alternate method that I know 100% works and is reliable I have had no issues with one I did for myself and I rebuilt it about 2 years ago.

as for brass bushings, I have heard guys have made this work on their cars, it's another great option if you have a lath, or a friend with one.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 12:21 pm 
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Car looks awesome!

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95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 5:04 pm 
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Quote:
I used the complete stainless clutch line, from clutch master to slave cylinder, this was on my 3G mirage, the one I used was the STM unit designed for the 1g dsms, it fits the stock mirage perfectly.

I agree that if you want to use oem, or it's more convenient for you, go for it, I just wanted to share an alternate method that I know 100% works and is reliable I have had no issues with one I did for myself and I rebuilt it about 2 years ago.

as for brass bushings, I have heard guys have made this work on their cars, it's another great option if you have a lath, or a friend with one.
Yes, don't worry. I totally agree that it works coming from all sides, to keep things tight. That's the goal anyways. If we only had the know how to operate a decent lathe. They sell them pretty cheap now.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 1:36 pm 
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yeah I wish I had the budget/ workspace for a lathe, but I suppose I'll throw it on my wish list, I know of a few moments where it would have been handy to have one on hand for members and myself :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 4:04 pm 
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Update: regarding using the "07-"10 elantra/spectra booster...okay so when I installed it in the red rocket I made some adjustments to the push rod... well my thoughts are they were wrong, and my reasoning for this is I stuck the same unit in my other 3g csm, but this time I did not touch the stock rod adjustment, and the brakes are less sensitive you can still adjust it a tad more, but I just wanted to update you all, because I mentioned the pedal was sensitive in an earlier post... of course that could also be attributed to the 3g eclipse prop valve? Oh well eventually I'll figure this out and report back my findings here.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:21 pm 
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IF you don't know the split point for the 3G eclipse proportioning valve, then it makes it hard to compare it to the factory split points. Do we have that manual stock piled yet?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:57 pm 
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I actually do have a PDF copy of the 2000-2002 eclipse fsm, I'll look it over real quick and see if theres any info pertaining to the split points.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 10:18 pm 
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I know it's been a long while since I updated this: but the "88 mightymax truck needed a lot of attention... Image
The PO did not take good care of it hence image of my work rebuilding its motor, and now that it's running, I can move back to the colt project I feel sort of bad for putting this car on the back burner, but hey thats life.
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I took my other CSM to my friends house, I was helping him get his Talon project going again, more of that is scheduled for this year :D

I just felt the need to updates as time goes on.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:51 am 
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I know this build has been dead for a while but I finally got some free time to upload some photos and update the build here.

I got my hands on a jdm front bumper cover replica made by carbonetics, below is some pictures of the USDM bumper support that I had to lightly trim in order to get it to fit it was not that hard I used an angle grinder to get it just right.
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And below is the finished product.
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but now onto some mods.

I decided to try adding just a tad more power to the 4g15, without forced induction or bottles, I recalled reading of a few members on the forums using this setup and decided I'd give it a go.

Pictured below: is a set of 1.8 4th gen mirage dual spray injectors -the yellow tops 210cc-, I also got a set of 1.8 sohc 1g dsm injectors they are single spray -White tops- also 210cc, I also have an ecu from a "91-"94 1.8 sohc 1g dsm along with the throttle body it's sensors and the maf...
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I ran it for about ten miles then I started to feel the spark break up a bit at 1500-2000 rpms or so, I pulled the colt back and logically I thought spark, so I pulled the spark plugs, they looked vary white which indicates that they are running too hot, based on this I had an idea to try and perhaps run a colder plug, so I did some research and it turns out that the 1.8 dsms that the ecu came from run a 1 stage colder plug then the 1.5 3g csms armed with this knowledge I went to the auto parts store and picked up a set of bpr6es plugs after gapping them and installing them I drove the car and noticed the breakup was completely gone, and the car feels a tad more brisk, more composed when going up hills too.
well thats about it for now more updates soon.

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