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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:59 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
Posts: 552
Location: Astoria OR
Mine does that too. Original gt turbo car

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Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
Keane


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 5:05 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9440
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
I got my rear brake lines from Technafit. They used my measurements instead of old stock values and with a little modification, the rubber grommet that's placed in the middle will drop right into the rear brake line bracket. Check out my thread and you can see what I did. A simple flat bar with a groove cut out and a hole for a zip tie retaining function or similar design, would do well to keep the line in place. You may be able to order new rear disc brake line brackets from Amayama.com, or just make your own. Not a complicated design. Flat bar, bend it, drill it, cut a groove and make a semi circle at the bottom of the groove.

Your car sits so much nicer with those coilovers in. My car hit the pavement for the first time in months. Still have to dial my front wheels back in, because the toe changed so much with the ride height and rotor depth/spacer install. Serious toe in after installing identical fitment OEM outer tie rods in exactly the same positions. I have no idea how tall or short my car is yet but I never want to work on it at ride height versus up on 6/3 ton jack stands.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Walnutport, PA
Yeah the I really like the way the car sits now. I gotta raise the back end up a little bit yet though. The way the exhaust runs over the rear axle piece its hits when the suspension compresses once in a while and it drives me nuts. All I will need then is some spaces for the back to make the back match the front because that bothers the F outta me lol.

As for now though, I need to try and fix my clutch pedal. Because when I went to drop my coworker off after work last night, I pushed the clutch pedal in to come to a stop, I heard a snap, I couldn't get it out of get, and the car didn't want to stop. I look under the dash grab the pedal and its just wobbling. Look closer and the bracket side towards the brake I think broke in half...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 8:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
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Location: Walnutport, PA
Would ya look at that....
Image

just look at...

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 10:20 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Well, that is just creepy. Made at the DSM plant or in Japan? Model year on your car should help figure that one out, but it will say so on the driver door placard.

If you need a new plastic bushing for that bracket (the large diameter blackish one) let me know. I pulled one from my shell that was automatic equipped. Led a granny application type of life.
Nothing spells annoying like play in parts. Gosh darn that is a lot of play when the bracket breaks!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
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Location: Walnutport, PA
It is a 90 Plymouth I will have to check the placard tomorrow. The large one that connects to the long brake pedal piece didn't seem to be in to bad of shape. The ones that the pedal actually ride on (the two smaller ones) they were a little worse for wear. I think the issue was there was no nut on the end of the bolt and I never noticed. I knew there was slop in the pedal but I always thought that's just the way it was.

The bushings that are beat are number 9 in this diagram...

Image

Edit: Also in truth it didn't just happen all of a sudden. I noticed the clutch was acting weird over the course of a couple of days. I thought I just needed to adjust it though because it just seemed like I had to really push it in further than normal. In hind sight that was probably the bracket slowly failing then the snap was it finally just giving out completely.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 12:38 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Be sure to order 9 (x2) and 5, as it could be wearing out too. If doesn't take much to add slop to the pedal when you add up all the extra wiggle room after many years of use. I just installed a new one to the brake pivot, as they use the same pin!

Your VIN will tell you what country the car was manufactured in, assuming your door placard isn't intact. J for Japan, first digit, anything else would be USA for this model of chassis. There was a break point of the cars coming from Japan, and the start up of the DSM plant in Normal Illinois. I however just stripped a 1992 Colt that was made in Japan, and was made for the Canadian market. Must have been towards the end of the 1992 model run that Colts/Summits were produced solely, in the US.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Walnutport, PA
Uh-huh...so this happened...
Image
Those would be the bolts that held the intermediate shaft to the block. They were OEM Mitsubishi with OEM lockwashers too. Both broke at the same time like 10 minutes from my house.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 6:23 pm 
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Some call me a god

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Location: Commerce City, Co
Both look like they were too long for the appliction.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 6:41 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
They were the OEM Mitsubishi ones though...


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 6:51 pm 
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Location: Tucson Az
I had that happen to me back in 06.. im pretty sure it was cause I didnt have the ac bracket on and used washers to space it..and might not of had the thickness the exact same... tried to drill them out with motor in car.. totally screwed it up.. should pull motor to do it correctly.


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:36 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Did you have the bolts out to confirm they were the proper shoulder type?
Spacer installed on the bolt hole nearest the timing cover?
I see what looks like rusty metal on the bolt furthest the timing cover (the right one)? Camera lighting playing tricks?

If the turbo block wasn't using an intermediate shaft for a given period of time, the holes could have been rusty down the barrel causing a bolt to lock up sooner than the torque should have held, I could see a looseness creating a perfect spot for breakage. If you lost the spacer, you can order it as all non AC cars got it, AC cars used the bracket at the left bolt hole otherwise.

Would be strange to see two bolts breaking at exactly the same time, and if they were both tight and no driveline issues or bindin of parts causing excessive stress where it shouldn't be (or mismatched parts lengths).


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 9:58 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
I bought and put the bolts in. The one on the inside looked weird because it actually broke into more than two pieces...somehow when I got that one out that dark spot is actually another shard. The one closer to the timing belt decided to drive in a little further then break the tip of the bit off. So now I'm having some issues getting that one out...

Edit: Oh and I have an original turbo car intermediate shaft so no AC bracket issues I think. Just gets a little bit of shims until it doesn't bind and that's all. Everything was gone after it broke and I'm not positive of what I put in it. I just know I bought the OEM bolt and washers.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 7:37 am 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Seattle, WA
Well the only flaw I see here then is the possibility of no A/C bracket or proper spacer.

Wondering if grade 10 bolts are stronger than OEM?

Seeing this makes me want to replace mine with new hardware.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:03 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Walnutport, PA
From what I saw before the OEM bolts are only grade 7. Also I'm not using a dsm intermediate shaft it's a colt gt piece so I shouldn't need the AC delete spacer I don't think correct?


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