4g61t.org

I have a video that kind of shows it. I'm not sure of if this is after the first pass or second. The guide I used was for motorcycle engines but same idea I guess. And I used baking soda in the water and a battery charger. It still looks like there is some rust inside but it looks a million times better.

https://youtu.be/4qJKr7N3dFg

I mean this in the best possible way, and it has to be said.

Please change the tank.

Any sediment that can make it's way up to the filter sock and or past it, and it will, is going to wreak havoc on the fuel system.

Injectors do not like sediment, and piston tops do not like injectors that have sediment blocking their tips/firing ability.

Tanks are not that expensive, so I HIGHLY RECOMMEND changing it for the sake of your fuel system and motor.

The only other option is to have the tank professionally cleaned and SEALED with the likes of POR15 grey fuel tank sealant.

Rockauto has these options for sale in the 1989 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.6L turbocharged option:
Tank with fuel pump assembly:
If you have a Walbro 255HP or a premium Denso pump to install, now would be a good time to do so.

I'll keep the tank in mind. At the moment I just don't have the money for a new one.

I wired up the tach from the white wire coming in from the engine to the wire from the chassis and it is reading 3500 rpm instead of zero then goes up from there? It's a colt gt Guage cluster if that makes a difference. When I looked at the traces on the back of the cluster it looked like they would be interchangeable. Any ideas why this would happen? If I disconnect the tach signal wire it still stays at 3500 but doesn't move then.

Did you run a separate wire from the tach interface on the coil pack to the cluster?

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

No I ran it from the white wire off the engine harness to the white wire left hanging on the adapter harness. It seems to move just fine and as it should. It just thinks 0 rpm is about 3500 rpm. Then moves from there. I think I'm going to put the original cluster back in from the auto and see what that does.

Figured out the rpm and thermostat Guage and I'm assuming the fuel gauge too. The clear cover is missing at the moment on the cluster and I am almost positive the needles were removed and not put on in the correct spot. So I think I figured that out.

The idle is really high on it though. It is idling at like 1.5k could that be the maft settings causing those issues?

Does anyone have the instructions or an install guide for rallyguys Wilwood Big Brake Kit? I believe I have everything but I am not positive on how it all goes together and what all is needed for sure. The car came with so many parts I just want to make sure of what goes with the kit. I also got a rear disc conversion too so I don't want to get stuff mixed up.

There should be pictures of what is in the kit included in the parts sale thread that mattGSR posted.

Basically you are going to remove the captive rotor (if you can't cut or torch it off safely, you will have to remove the bearings with a slide hammer and a punch/chisel.

You then install (the new bearings drawn together and new seals) the new longer studs (with a press of form of a press). The spacer plate sits on this outside of the hub, the new larger 276mm rotors sit on the outside of the spacer plate.

RallyGuy weighs in on the how-to

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I am pretty sure I didn't see any lug bolts in the pile so I'll have to pick those up. What should I be looking for when I order them?

Also on another note are the 1g blowoff valves directional and where should the vacuum line run to on the manifold?

Quote from rallyguy, but don't quote him yet. This is our idea behind the thickness's in question:

~ or < 5/8" thickness is added to push the rim outward from centerline of the vehicle.
spacers adds under .5 inches, closer to .4" from memory
estimate the rotor to be around 5/32"

You need find the stock length of the wheel studs, then add the rotor thickness, and the spacer thickness for a complete picture of the overall length.

In the weigh in thread you can make out the KYO ... bags with longer studs in them. If they had been shipped on time, I'd have them to show you with a ruler next to it.
Maybe LilEvo has his wheels off and is using the original studs from the kits or knows what length they may be. Few members have this kit on their car right now.

I actually glanced through the boxes today while looking for the other throttle body to check something and found the original instructions that shipped with the kit so maybe the lugs are in their somewhere.

If you could scan those instructions that would be great.
We've been looking to add them to the thread for users installing the kit.

Yessir I will try and do that tonight. Also you were right about the tank I think the pump strainer is beginning to clog up so car is parked back in the garage and will be ordering a tank next week. But I guess that give me time to try and get the brakes on and stuff and hood pins in I just bought.

I got it scanned to pdf and will post the link to my google drive account. If someone could post it someone more permanent that would be great.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BweR2- ... sp=sharing

Hey Flying Eagle are there any discernable differences in those first two fuel tanks you listed to justify the big price difference?