4g61t.org

Finally decided to post this, figure it's a bit different. I don't think anybody has ever put a Toyota axle in a 4g coupe. This car is built with the idea of keeping things light. Nothing expensive or crazy. Ful interior heater, wiper etc
Goal is 11.99 with a 14b. I estimate 23-2400 lbs without me. The Toyota axle has 3.90 gears to match up with the Evo 3 trans and t case. Disc conversion.
The entire Dsm irs is 210 lbs
This axle is 120ish. Can't say exactly cause my battery went dead in the scale but I fish scaled either side 65 pounds and I lost around 10 with disc brake conversion.

4x100 bolt pattern and stock discs up front! So it won't stop very well. Haha. Maybe you can get performance pads? I really just want to be able to run 155/80/13 tires all around (at the strip). Got some nice aftermarket Rotas for anytime else.
Has to look stock/slow. Especially at the strip. I always hated having to run 15's or bigger on my other awd colt

This thread desperately needs pics.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

Sorry for the slight delay there I haven't posted pics with phone before.

Another cool thing about this swap is I used the stock fuel tank and relocated it behind the axle. It was not hard to do I extended the fuel filler hose and it is still run outside of the trunk and the best part is I did not have to build a fancy higher bulkhead it is simply the stock floor height minus the spare tire. I have some good pics from before I put the floor back in showing the rear suspension setup.
It is four link with a Panhard I did this instead of triangulated because this way I did not have to modify the axle, I simply used all the stock mounting points.
It was quite easy. I used the stock control arm mounts on the colt for the lower links and I made and installed my own upper link body mounts.

interesting idea.

Way to think outside the box man! I have seen a few 1g awd rear subframes mounted in a 4g csm and it didn't look easy so I don't blame you for going another route. The rear end is nothing like the 3g's. I'd be interested in seeing more pics of how you mounted everything up.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I ll post some pics later. It was easier than a 1g rear in a hatch.

All that I have left is the driveshaft. And that is a doozy of a problem
I am in no rush to finish this. I want to do it the best way possible. Don't mind spending some money if need. There are many options

One piece aluminum-not sure if this is a good idea but I like it. Do t have to build any mounts just bolt it in and its lightest possible way and there is ample room for at least a 4 inch shaft I can buy a dss front yoke cause that would mate up to the 1310 u joint And just convert the rear where it bolts to the diff.

Shorten the 3 piece- probably the best option. No driveshaft shop will touch it though, so I have to do myself and hope it doesn't shake

Go search junkyard for driveshafts from d50, raider, Suzuki, and see if I can get a 2 piece I can get shortened

I have an 87 Montero (same as raider) here, let me know if you need any pics or measurements.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Ok. I just realized that was a blatant lie. It was not easier. The physical mounting of the reAr was easy, But the whole process of tracking down parts to make this all work was very time consuming. Using a 1g reAr, it's all there with the donor car. This rear I had to track down 3.90 gear ratio and disc brake conversion. And Evo 3 transmissions and t cases are not that common. Either. There is no 3.55 for this Toyota 6.7inch rear. It's fun to do it different. I already did 1g rear swap(but in a hatch). And I really enjoyed doing this conversion , weird I know.

Mirage man - don't go to trouble for me but It might help me with a measurement, of each individual shaft. I found a link on tuners that says basically all mitsus and some suzis use the same u joint. Same u joint means I can piece it together and maybe get close with a length. I can move my rear end forward or backward if I wanted to, not sure if I would though. Gotta look stock with 13 inch wheels at the track!

It's no problem man, I'll climb under there and get some quick measurements. I would do it now but its 30 degrees and raining today. Supposed to be decent this weekend though.

I know what you mean about being different and its cool to go another route sometimes. It gives others new ideas as well.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Wow that rear end seems to fit almost in perfect condition, definitely suscribed

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91' Mitsubishi Colt 4G67T FWD "The Minion" - 12.26@118
94' Mitsubishi Galant GS 4g63 Swap "White Unicorn"
95' Eagle Talon Tsi FWD "Ernie's car" - 13.92@104 *Rest In Parts*

I can't seem to find the pics of the rear mounts, Cause I snapped pics before I put the floor back in, now I would need to get it on a lift to take pics.
The local driveshaft shop said 500 minimum to shorten and balance the Dsm 3 piece. So I decided to do it myself. It's easy to get another stocker if this one is buggered up. At least I will know for sure if the measurements correct I would rather just get a custom length one from dss if I'm going to pay 800 for a stock one
I might even try balancing it myself on the car. It actually didn't have any weights on it from the factory and believe it or not I was able to get it pretty close. I shortened the shortest shaft cause that's the smart way to do it
I mounted the carrier bearing on the table and slid a clutch release bearing over the yoke (perfect fit) and put that in the vise and used that as a trying stand, I could have used a micrometer but Lets be serious. I'll never get it that close.
If you've made it this far here is the point of all this. The u joint themselves have enough play to throw your whole shaft out of whack!

Man that's crazy on the driveshaft. A local shop here shortened and balanced mine for around $150. They shortened it from the front since that made the most sense and had "normal" joints up there. They wouldn't mess with the lobro in the back which is fine. I replaced that last year myself, it wasn't bad.