4g61t.org

If you have a balancing machine and precision tools than which shaft you shorten doesn't matter. When you are just using basic tools(no large to true the ends on the shaft and the yoke) then i think it does. Cause if I'm out a 1/16 of an inch on a 12 inch shaft it won't shake nearly as bad if it was the same 1/16 on a two foot shaft
But I hear you. I would not care which shaft got shortened if it was being balanced after

Found a few more pics. Kinda shows how it's mounted up there.
All stock mounts on the axle.
I have to install the driveshaft and remove the struts to see it the driveshaft clears that box tubing I used for the upper mounts, if not then ill have some notching to do

Can anybody guess what this is, blurry picture doesn't make it any easier

You on the meth?

I'm not yet, I have had the parts for it sitting here since last summer though. This is a washer reservoir from a corolla I installed a fuel gauge in it and was testing it out, calibrating if you will. That's one thing bothered me about meth is always checking the damn tank all the time.
I might get an aem flow gauge too, but haven't decided yet if it's worth it.
Yes I plan on using this tank for double duty. I plan to spray my windows with meth when needed. And I plan to tee off the rubber hose to feed the meth pump. I know this is not what is recommended, you are supposed to drill a new hole, but I can't see why you would have to

sometimes when im fabbing stuff up i forget to take pics, not really anything to learn from this, just shows the exhaust i have lack of room to route it above the axle because of the gas tank, so i decided to just do an ultra-simple 2.5 inch dump in front of the rear tire with a single glass-pack. ill probably stick a reducer tip on it to quieten it down. im a very paranoid guy when it comes to the cops.
anyways it allows 6 inches of ground clearance which is probably ok. not sure if itll clunk on my driveway, should clear speed bumps,etc. my car is pretty high, and no chance of lowering it, i only have about 4-5 inches of rear suspension travel as is, before it bottoms out. still gotta get some bump stops

its snowing and february, this car just needs the brakes bled and a proper hanger on the exhauat and shes ready to take for a spin. could be lots of fun in the snow!

see the creative way i mounted the driveshaft supports? before anybody says how sketchy this is, i will just point out that i made 2x2 1/8 plate washers and used very long bolts that go all the way through, welded everything up after i tightened it all up. it will NOT let go, i have done it like this before many times with great results. it certainly is the easiest way to do it, maybe not the best way.
this is why i love doing this stuff. get to do engineering, im a carpenter by trade and i always have to do things their way whether i like it or not

took if for a rip finally on friday and it was great except for the howling rear diff. i bought the complete rear off ebay, paid 350 or something like that, i guess i should have just bought brand new gearset and rebuild kit for a little more money, but i wanted to avoid the diff

i expect thid setup to howl somewhat, it is solid mounted rear. but this is so loud its undrivable.

im really kicking myself for not just using the stock toyota 3.583 gears, use 1g final drive, and 1.074 t case it works out to 3.599. so close, the viscous coupler could easily take up the difference.

okay, new diff in, rebuilt myself with brand new gears, works mint, no noise whatsoever(hope it stays that way)
so where do you think i would go for its first trip since awd swap?
somewhere ive been waiting to go/dreading for the last few years, ever since i had the gears turning in my head on this swap
THE WEIGH SCALE
2310 lbs!!!!!!
this is 300 lbs lighter than the 90 awd hatch i did years ago. i saved about 80 lbs by going solid axle(6.7 toyota) and about 200 by using a 4g coupe
I am absolutely stoked, i knew it would be lighter, was hoping 2300 but expected 2450
this is without me, im 200 lbs
car still has a full size battery
and full tank of gas
only weight reduction really is both bumper supports are lightened
has prelude seats, they about 33 lbs each
with pass seat out, base model driver seat
-40
odyssey battery-15
1/4 tank fuel -50
i can get much lighter wheels im sure!
itll be 2400 lb race weight!

Whats the rearend out of? Happen to know the flange to flange width?

I'm about to do this to my colt, but turning the engine and going rear wheel drive only....can't stand FWD any longer and would rather have something I could launch on slicks and not worry as much as with awd stuff.

As for the driveshaft, I did the ones for my toyota starlet myself...started out as a temporary thing just to move the car around but it worked fine. First one was for a toyota trans to ford 8.8 rearend, second one was easier since it was ford trans to ford 8.8 (made an adapter to bolt ford t5 to toyota bellhousing.) I just cut about a foot from the slip end and then used angle iron and shims to keep it lined up and tigged it back together. lol Sounds hooky, but never has failed, probably put 60-70 launches on it in the low 1.5's and ran up smooth with 4.30 gears at 140mph. Still looks like the day I put it together.

But like everybody else mentioned above, find a different driveshaft shop, ask around at a local track. Shouldn't be more than $150 if you bring them the parts and the dimensions you want.

Thanks
Randy

flange width is 56. i used 1.5 spacer/adapters to get close. its still 1/2 narrow on each side. you need 60 exactly
it is a 6.7 inch from a 1984 celica
it is good for 200 hp if you use it on its own. it is useless fir your cause. you need a 8.8 from a mustang or something like that.
the dsm rear is 6.7 too, so i think the 120 lb silid axle is strong enough