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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 12:33 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
So my bumper lights are just running lights your saying? Bc it was working with the turn signal. how do I check my turn signal switch? Do I have to remove the steering wheel? If my bumper lights do work as turn signals does that mean I have a short or something?.. I want to remove it to check if its clean or replace it. I cant understand why my front turn signals don't work, did the flasher go bad, did the switch go bad, wtf. I had them now I don't.. I hate electrical. I did some reading about people with similar problems and it seems likely its a flasher or turn signal module. Where are these things?

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91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:16 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 667
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Quote:
So my bumper lights are just running lights your saying? Bc it was working with the turn signal. how do I check my turn signal switch? Do I have to remove the steering wheel? If my bumper lights do work as turn signals does that mean I have a short or something?.. I want to remove it to check if its clean or replace it. I cant understand why my front turn signals don't work, did the flasher go bad, did the switch go bad, wtf. I had them now I don't.. I hate electrical. I did some reading about people with similar problems and it seems likely its a flasher or turn signal module. Where are these things?
No, the Bumper lights are Turn Signals. The Fender lights are just running lights (these are what you were asking about, correct?) If your bumper lights do not work, you will get a fast blinker.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:45 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Are you serious? How do I clean/replace the turn signal stick bc it doesnt engage perfect (needs wiggle) I will replace the one bulb I think is bad it just stopped raining so ill check if it is infact bad. And get a replacement for both.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:57 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 667
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Quote:
Are you serious? How do I clean/replace the turn signal stick bc it doesnt engage perfect (needs wiggle) I will replace the one bulb I think is bad it just stopped raining so ill check if it is infact bad. And get a replacement for both.
I didn't do a write-up. You just need to remove the steering wheel and the plastic shrouding. then remove the entire switch. You can see on the RIGHT side of the switch is where it gets dirty. You have to remove a screw or two being careful not to drop the spring(s) and ball-bearing when you remove the plate, then you can clean it with alcohol and a q-tip. Then you can put in some dielectric grease to make it smooth and have good connectivity.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 5:02 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Okay well I think I found my problem. I need further investigating but my driverside turn signal is bad. The bulb is good(switched and same thing), I see voltage before the socket I wasnt able to test the socket itself but from process of elimination thats my best guess. I rewired the driverside bc someone had done a terrible job trying before me. I dont know if I ever had a front left turn signal, it must have been a problem for the person before me. I will try to clean my turn signal stick though sometime soon. I thank you for your input and will continue to update.

I did pull out about 2 lbs of rust muck behind the turn signals, not good. I have most of my turn signals, thats okay for now ill worry about it at a later date since we have no inspection in florida I can.

I just got done driving it around the block (no tag) and I am 99% sure my left wheel bearing is going bad or is bad whatever. I can hear it.

Once I get the money this thing needs a lil tlc (wheel bearings and seals, lower ball joints,possibly inner and outter tie rod, shocks/struts and springs for that 2 in drop or so, rear disk brakes and maybe sway bar stuff

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:04 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Im starting my throttle body swap to the 4g37 tb.

left is 4g15 tb right is 4g37 tb
Image

I started porting the intake manifold but could not finish because it started raining. Also I need more sandpaper attachment stuff for my dremel.

I did the coolant bypass, from what I read its only to warm the air on cold start ups. I live in florida cold start ups arnt really a problem here so I bypassed it. I was also just parranoid about bugs getting into my coolant system between now and then.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:11 pm 
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2nd Banana
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:16 pm
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Location: San Diego, CA.
Quote:
I did the coolant bypass, from what I read its only to warm the air on cold start ups. I live in florida cold start ups arnt really a problem here so I bypassed it. I was also just parranoid about bugs getting into my coolant system between now and then.
If these throttle bodies are anything like the 4G63 units, doing that coolant bypass could cause the car to idle like a raped ape all the time. There are wax balls inside the throttle body that expand and contract depending on the temperature of the coolant, that's how it allows the idle to change. If you just disconnected the coolant lines and bypassed them on the line, these wax balls are just sitting exposed and will never expand larger to allow the idle to go down, so your car will idle at like 1,500rpm or more all the time. I'd leave them in, there is no performance benefit to removing them.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:58 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Alright I understand, ill connect them properly as everything is installed.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 3:03 am 
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The happy administrator
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
Wax balls are a myth. :P It's just thermo springs.


There's no point in doing a FIAV blockoff on a 1.5. It's annoying enough on a 63t, I have to pedal it when the engine's cold otherwise she'll spit and sputter.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:18 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Back in the day somebody talked me into doing this on my 95 GS-T. Tony was right, especially on those cool mornings. My shit would idle at 2k until it was fully warmed up. Definitely not worth it even if it does make the intake charge a few degrees cooler.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:03 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Today it was raining and I got more supplies ill take pics of intake progress sometime tomorrow I got some 60, 120 and 240 grit sand paper wheels hopefully that will do it.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:42 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
I hope there were lots of rags in the intake port, to keep the shavings from entering the combustion chambers. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:51 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Oh yea thanks for the tip, I read to do that. My original plan was to pull the whole intake to port it but it looked like a pain. I saw I had room to port it without removing it.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 2:50 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
This is what I got going on. How do I clean the sealing surface?

Image

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 3:33 pm 
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2nd Banana
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:16 pm
Posts: 9369
Location: San Diego, CA.
Razor blade and lots of patience.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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