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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:52 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:21 am
Posts: 347
Location: Costa Rica
why? a litlle of welding and you are good to go! ha ha ha


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 1:55 am
Posts: 803
Location: Cultus Lake, B.C, Canada
It made a full pass before that... I had the datalogs and it was a clean knock free run on the datalogs.
On that run it ran a 13.1 @ 115 MPH with a shitty 2.1 60' and a badly missed 3rd gear shift.


The next run i turned on the Boost by gear option and limted 1st gear to 15 psi and 2nd gear to 20 psi and then 3rd gear was full boost (28-29 psi)... it made it to 5500 RPM and BOOOM!

I got both runs on my shitty blackberry video camera.. lol

http://www.streetfire.net/video/turbo-c ... 326451.htm

http://www.streetfire.net/video/turbo-c ... 326452.htm

_________________
-1989 Colt GT (stock for now)
-1993 Dodge colt 4g63 swap
-1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo GSR (genuine)
-1992 Eagle Summit AWD 4g63t swap (SOLD)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:25 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
Hey so getting some more progress on this long due project.

Bought some new parts

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stainless steel brake line kit (For a FWD 1g DSM) - hopefully they will work, the measurements i took and the style fittings used... they SHOULD work

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Prothane solid engine mounts (3 x 501 1 x 506)

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Silicone DSM coolant hose kit (complete, most should be able to be modded to fit 89GT chassis (rad hoses, heater hoses) hopefully

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Greddy style oil cooler kit (1990 filter housing going on as well)

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Evo 1-3 Racing Radiator (ASI) *note* a GVR4 rad fits, and the galant guys swap in the evo 1-3 race rads... so this should bolt up directly into the 89GT chassis. (there is no coolant temp sensor bung in the lowe rad like the stock GT/GVR4 rads, but no big deal and the fans run all the time anyways.)

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catchcan with breather, ARP flywheel bolts and cam gear bolts, OEM fuel filterm OEM thermostat, 2G oil distick

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closeup of catchcan

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Brian Crower Cam gears

(Other Parts that are not pictured : New KYB Gr2 struts (all 4), New custom FMIC piping)

This is all going on a new rebuilt 2G piston'd 6 bolt (stock internals) with BC 272 cams and a HTA68. 850cc FIC injectors and DS MAP'ed Eprom w/ ostrich for tuning.

hoping for some good results again without the KABOOM at the track this time lol


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 1:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
Been able to get some work done on the colt. yay

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New BC adj. cam gears, Belt, new tensioner,tensioner arm, idler,cam seals (which were found previously installed backwards lol)

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Weirdly the BC cam gears do not come with any OEM style timing marks. just the adjustment marks pictured. This made setting the timing a bit difficult having no refrence. I ended up taking the old cam gears and using the cam pins to line them up with the new gears i just matched the timing marks up and marked them with yellow paint pen. I imagine BC wants you to properly degree the cams, but i dont have the tools to do that.

ImageBillet compresser wheel of the HTA68... ready to rock it at 28psi (turn it up till you destroy a piston, then back it down a pound)


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This engine is a 2G piston'ed 6 bolt. all internals are stock besides L19 head studs and BC 272 cams, 1990 oil filter housing added on this time as well.

Re-did all the thermostat housing seals and put the OEM thermostat in there along with all new intake/exhuast/TB gaskets, also did the oil pan gasket and cams seals, which i found the previous ones were installed backwards lol (never seen that before!). Still have to replace the TB shaft seals, install the timing covers and such.... also install the flywheel/clutch/tranny and shes pretty much ready to drop back in there!! Hoping to add more updates and pics this coming week.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 1:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
Been able to get some work done on the colt. yay

Image
New BC adj. cam gears, Belt, new tensioner,tensioner arm, idler,cam seals (which were found previously installed backwards lol)

Image
Weirdly the BC cam gears do not come with any OEM style timing marks. just the adjustment marks pictured. This made setting the timing a bit difficult having no refrence. I ended up taking the old cam gears and using the cam pins to line them up with the new gears i just matched the timing marks up and marked them with yellow paint pen. I imagine BC wants you to properly degree the cams, but i dont have the tools to do that.

ImageBillet compresser wheel of the HTA68... ready to rock it at 28psi (turn it up till you destroy a piston, then back it down a pound)


Image
This engine is a 2G piston'ed 6 bolt. all internals are stock besides L19 head studs and BC 272 cams, 1990 oil filter housing added on this time as well.

Re-did all the thermostat housing seals and put the OEM thermostat in there along with all new intake/exhuast/TB gaskets, also did the oil pan gasket and cams seals, which i found the previous ones were installed backwards lol (never seen that before!). Still have to replace the TB shaft seals, install the timing covers and such.... also install the flywheel/clutch/tranny and shes pretty much ready to drop back in there!! Hoping to add more updates and pics this coming week.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
hahahaha doesn;'t really seem that anyone cares about this build as evident by replies.... but anyways.....


Update!!!

ARP flywheel bolts:
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ARP L19 headstuds
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Installed all the prothane solid engine mounts. To do this on a turbo colt, you end up using 3 timing belt mounts, and one rear mount from a 1g dsm . Worked out perfectly and the engine is definalty solid in the engine bay now!

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Image (note, i late found out that i put the mount on backwards lol *oops*
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also installed most of the silicone coolant hose kit (heater hoses, turbo hose, TB bypass hose, oil coolern spout block off hose. The 1g DSM hose kit ended up working perfect!

Installed the engine
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started re-doing the intercooler mounting (moving it forward, to allow for better airflow to the core, and also make room for the oil cooler and 12" pusher fan
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Intercooler in its new location
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new found room for the oil cooler.
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Here is the 1990 filter housing with the AN -10 fittings.
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Hoping to get her fired up very soon. Just have to finish the custom AN lines/fittings for the oil cooler and mount the cooler to the rad support, route/support the lines. a little work to the intercooler piping to account for the change in intercooler poisition, and mount the catch can, battery tray, install the new KYB struts and shes pretty much ready to go besides tuning!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:48 am 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:53 pm
Posts: 1494
Location: Seattle, WA
I care! :hail:

Nice update and excellent progress! I need some L19s myself :) How did the DSM brake lines work out for you?

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
havn't installed the lines yet.... going to be waiting till i can get the engine running and the oil cooler/intercooler piping and such all finalized.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 12:14 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 4:55 pm
Posts: 217
Location: Vancouver, B.C. Canada
the race is on as to whom will get their black GT on the road first! 3/4 done the exhaust, flux core madness!

good progress, Brettuzzi

_________________
89 turbocan, 63t, GT30-13 (laaaag monster), tubular manifold by me, maf-Trans, phil-tuned ecu, bla bla bla.... you get the drift...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:05 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
got some more work done on the colt

Mounted the racing radiator. 14" puller mounted on the engine side, 12" pusher mounted to the rad support on the front side. Not sure whether to set the smaller 12" pusher to turn on anytime the main 14" puller goes on.... or hook the 12" fan to run with a user selectable switch. I assume it wouldnt be needed in normal driving conditions... so probably better to just put it on a separate switch and have the 14" set up to run as a stock fan would and just use the 12" fan when needed. in hard driving or very hot summer temps.
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also pictured is the large size engine oil cooler and the fmic
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I slotted the radiator mounting brackets to allow the radiator to come closer to the rad support to make more room for the intercooler piping that runs down near the alternator. also should help keep the air going through the radiator a little better as well With the 2.5" piping it comes damn close to everything
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AN-10 oil cooler lines/fittings
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radiator/rad support clearance!
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I figured i will post some pics up of how i timed the 1st gen BC cam gears. These cam gears were originally designed for a evo 8 or something so the marks on the gears are not correct for a DSM. I used a stock cam gear i had laying around to match the marks up.

I found the "top" mark on the cam gears. this mark lines up with the centerline of the center of the cam bolt hole and dowl pin hole intersect with the outter tooth, mark the tooth with a paintpen or whatever
Image


then do the same thing to the BC cam gear and find the tooth that intersects the centerline (make sure the cam gears are centered in their adjustment). on the BC cam gears you will find this tooth is one tooth counter-clockwise to the marks that come on the BC cam gears.
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cam gear w/ marks
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then you just count the teeth to and match the same to make the new marks on the BC cam gears.

the exhuast cam gear is 11.5 teeth clockwise from the new paint mark (mark is inbetween the teeth on the exh cam)
the intake cam gear is 12 teeth counter clockwise away from the new paint mark


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
Well I have had the car on the road for around 2 weeks now. Got over 1000 km's on her now so the engine is pretty much broken in enough to tune it for WOT.

Got it running good with the ostrich and tunerpro RT, and SD. Pretty much got it running/idling/starting and cruising as good as stock now. I tuned the cruise and idle and then turned on the Closed loop option with the o2 input from the AEM wideband (shoots for 2.5v). She holds cycling a/f ratio from 14.5-15.7 about at cruice and idle. Should make it compensate a bit for weather changes and elevation changes a bit using closed loop id imagine (in cruise/light accel and idle). Seems to get very good mileage as well tuned as it is on idle and cruise. id imagine with a cat on there it might not do so bad at aircare either. I just wish there was a BARO input to the ecu now to compensate elevation/ baro pressure changes on WOT as well.... would make for a lot less fine tuning when the weather changes come around or if driving from sea level to way up in the mountains

Did a leakdown test and compression test and got the following. (to use as a baseline)


CYL 1 175 psi 9 % leakdown
CYL 2 173 psi 10% leakdown
CYL 3 175 psi 9 % leakdown
CYL 4 172 psi 11% leakdown

i thought it was cool how the compression result differences were bang on witht he leakdown numbers.

Anyways... I guess its time for a WOT 28psi full meth tune and see what she does.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:22 pm
Posts: 2430
Location: New Brighton, PA
Good shit man. Looks like you put a lot of time and effort into it. Can't wait to see what she runs in the quarter now. This really makes me want a Colt again. Maybe after I get my truck done I'll start looking for a Colt to build. My old 92 with a 63t in it would break the tires loose all the way through 4th gear with a 20g, 660cc injectors, 3" turbo back, and tuned with an Apex'i AFC. I managed to put down 308 to the wheels at 16 psi. I also took out a new Corvette GS and a Lexus ISF.

_________________
2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 5:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:41 am
Posts: 69
Location: BC, Canada
Heres the "new" updated spec list

SPECS

-"rebuilt" 6 bolt w/ 2g pistons, BS elimination.
-FP HTA 68
-Ebay FMIC and homemade redneck piping
-HKS SSQV II BOV
-1990 OFH w/ AN -10 and custom greddy style oil cooler.
-BC 272
-AEM Meth progressive kit (2x large nozzles mounted pre TB)
-BC adjustble cam gears
-850cc FIC injectors
-China aeromotive FPR knock off
-Evo III exh mani
-Solid poly prothane engine/trans mounts (x4)
-Solid shifter bushings inside and out
-stock 1992 FWD turbo DSM 5-speed trans
-Centerforce DF PP and ACT street disk
-Chromoly Lightweight flywheel with ARP bolts
-22" MT slicks
-Megan Racing SS o2 housing (recirc)
-ARP L19 Head studs
-Megan racing 3" downpipe w/ 3" exhuast after
-3" raceready electric cutout (dumps right after downpipe)
-3" CAI
-Evo I-III race radiator w/ 14" slim puller and 12" slim pusher on switch
-SS braided brake lines all the way around
-KYB GR2 x4
-Silicone h coolant/vac oses all around
-Tunerpro RT running Speed density 3 bar map
-Greddy EGT
-AEM Wideband
-Apexi AVCR boost controller
-Autometer 30vac/30psi boost


Got the car back on the road again.
There was a minor oil leak coming from the front cover area so i dissasembled the timing components to inspect. Ended up the leak was coming from the castle plug in the oil pump. whoever owned and put the engine together before thought that instead of replacing the oring and removing the castle plug, that they would JB weld the whole ouside of the castle plug to try and fix the leak. NO GO aahaha, they jb weld make it impossible to remove the castle plug in car so i ended up removing the front cover and trying to fix it on the bench. upon removal of the oil pump heavy scoring was found on the oil pump gears and housing and a replacement was in order. Not sure why the previous owner rebuilt the entire engine but decided to re-use a hacked together oil pump. bleh. they even cut the worn out balance shaft off and welded up the oiling hole... HACK!

Anyways a new front cover and oil pump was ordered up and installed along with new 3g revised lifters (again the previous engine builder decided to re-use old crappy lifters (why why!!)

I wired in the auxillary fan (RACING FAN!) and also installed solid shifter bushings all the way around. I also build and installed some shrouds to direct air at the radiator so it is not able to go around it. re-mounted the HKS BOV with a new aluminum flange and pipe, installed the new deka racing lightweight battery and made a small little hold down for it as well. figured a bling mishimoto magnetic drain plug would finish it up nicely lol. Uploaded the tune to the ostrich and fired her up. Hopefully that is the last of the oil leak.

Back on the road as my current daily driver and heading to RG for a full boost tune with meth and adjust the new cam gears to peak power levels on the 27th.

Just finished tonight, the braided SS brake lines installed all 4 corners and new KYB stuts on all 4 as well installed. The FWD 1g brake lines worked perfectly on the colt.

just the alignment and tune now left and its done and gone! yay haha

i actually might get to work on one of my OWN cars soon!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:01 am
Posts: 198
Location: Canton, GA
Car looks really good an clean. It makes me want an evo3 radiator now.


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