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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:19 am 
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Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 5:47 am
Posts: 58
Location: Seymour, WI
As promised here are some pics of my Summit that I purchased a while back from pma1123.

Some changes I have made since I bought the car are:

Stock Turbo DSM fual system w/ wally 190
Stock Turbo DSM piping system w/sidemount
Stock Turbo Cams
1g exhaust mani
14b w/evo 3 o2 housing.
Rebuilt f5m33 w/awd 5th
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
ACT 2100 pp stock disc
2.5" exhaust fabbed by pma.
elantra rotors and early 1g calipers.

Side View
Image

Engine Bay
Image

Piping Setup
Image

Side Mount
Image

Downpipe that I'll be fabbing up for the bird
Image

My '92 GSX
Image

Other Side
Image

Engine BayImage

I'll throw some pics up of the downpipe once I finish that.

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Last edited by ErickysGSX on Sun May 30, 2010 4:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 9:41 am 
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Damn, that car was a lot cleaner when Paul owned it. :lol:

Looks good though, nice 1g as well. I went ahead and embedded all your images to make life easier for everyone else.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

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 Post subject: Update:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:05 pm 
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Location: Seymour, WI
New gas tank installed with a new walbro 190 and sending unit with 3/8" lines. Also wired up the resistor pack on Saturday.

Whats Left:
wiring knock sensor and 7th maf to ecu
welding up my ss downpipe
installing some arps headstuds

Any one got any tips as far as how I go about breaking in my rebuilt tranny?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:24 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:12 am
Posts: 272
Location: De Pere, WI
Drive it like you stole it. I would just make sure the clutch disengages completely is all.

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91 Talon - was 454 whp/440 ft/lbs, now DD
89 C52A - 4G63T To the crusher
91 C52A - 4G63T Up and Running (AWD swap coming!)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:17 pm 
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Drive it like you stole it. I would just make sure the clutch disengages completely is all.
I plan on that, I was kind of wondering about how soon the first, second and if necessary third fluid change should be done though.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:55 pm 
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Location: Seymour, WI
Got my downpipe welded up finally. Took me 5 hours total of cutting, measuring and "farmer welding" it all together. I used 2.5" ss pipe with .035" ss wire on the wire feed. My welds look awful but I know there won't be any leaks.

The downpipe
Image

The welds.
Image

Also got my arp headstuds on today too for a little extra security.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:01 pm 
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Your welds don't look too awful man don't be so hard on yourself...I've seen some really ghetto welds in my day... :lol:

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1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:24 pm 
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Thanks, crx. Prior to this I haven't touched a welder in 3 years. I was making adjustments on the welder all the way through this project and didn't really have it dialed in until the last weld. I even forgot to turn on the gas a couple of times. I wanted to make a nice even "pretty" bead but really didn't have a steady enough hand to do so. I think .035" wire is just a little on the heavy side and next time I think I'm gonna use .030".

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:07 am 
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Location: Seymour, WI
Update: Everything should be ready to turn the key and go now but the starter will not crank. I had the starter tested to see if it was faulty and it passed.

Some info on my conversion:

1.6l NA engine harness. 1.6l MPI under the dash.
The car used to run on in NA mode on 91NT 2.0l ecu.
Now equipped with the 92 turbo 5-speed ecu from my GSX.
Both non eprom.
I extended the pos battery terminal and moved the battery to the trunk.
Wired in a turbo maf sensor. All wire colors matched and 7th wire installed on
the active filter reset terminal on the ecu.
Knock sensor wired in to the ecu also.
Wired in turbo IRP according to this guide: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... rsion.html

Basicly the starter is not being triggered to run.
Anyone got any experience or ideas on what the problem is?
Can a starter relay go bad?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:39 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin
Dang how'd I miss this? That's my old summit that I sold to Pma, prior to that my uncle owned it. There's the last 10 years of ownership for ya.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:43 pm 
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I think Harvey and Paul did the wiring for 2.0l NT swap then right?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:01 pm 
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Yeah, it was still a 4g15 when it left my driveway. Not sure if Harvey had anything to do with it though, it was Paul's daily for a couple years afaik.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Location: Htown, TX
What starter harness is used? I had to use the dsm starter harness and just put a push button start on. The 89 and 90-92 csm starting wiring are different. You could also find the 12v source on the ignition switch and run the wiring from it to the starter switch.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:36 am 
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Location: Seymour, WI
It's a '91 Summit with 1.6l NA starter harness. Not at all complicated to move the batery to the trunk because one POS+ went to the fuse box on the passenger side and the other went directly to the starter. I'm leaning on the starter push button idea myself to if the relay is bad. I can mount it in an unseen location for a little security too.

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Last edited by ErickysGSX on Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 1:28 am 
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Now Drives a hybrid :(
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the reason a relay is used in most applications is to isolate high current or high voltage circuit from a actuating circuit. in this case the voltage is the same but there is alot of current going through the starting circuit. the actuating circuit being the start button and wires, make sure the wires are of the same gauge as the starting circuit and the button can handle the 200-300 amps a regular passenger car needs to start with. Ignore these physics and you may cause a fire or burn your finger. also make sure to run both positive and negative wires because just running a ground and a positive with that much current may cause transient spikes on other grounds(not good). most 150+ amp switches at my work have a relay built in.

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