4g61t.org

I am pretty sure Paul just took the engine harness from a 1.6L non-turbo 4-door summit and swapped it in. I did take a dsm harness and make it plug and play for a csm. I used the archives and some help from 89mirageman to do so since the archives were not completely correct.

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91 Talon - was 454 whp/440 ft/lbs, now DD
89 C52A - 4G63T To the crusher
91 C52A - 4G63T Up and Running (AWD swap coming!)

Glad to see a worthy owner took over!!! Looks like the bug bit pretty hard
Progress looks great!!! Most of all, I hope you're having fun.

I need to dispell any rumors of this thing being a NOPI show car in its former life. This thing was built to be an errand runner/roadtrip conquering combat commuter, with a 2.0 swap so it could turn some monster snow tires.
Got road salt???

The summit build used a 1.6NA harness, plug and play, no hackery, splicing, witchcraft, etc.
The no-crank issue I would first check the black w/yellow stripe wire that has a single spade terminal over near the underhood fuse box and make sure that sucker is connected and not corroded. That trips the starter solenoid....

Ha! I've got no clue how that rumor started. Anyways, I go through this every time I have a car sit in that barn for a while. In fact I think every car I had in the barn I had to check and clean corroded contacts of some sort to get the car running again. I will not be leaving the barn Friday night until this thing runs. I can't stand the waiting anymore.

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One other question I have on the thermostat. I currently have a 190 in the car. Anyone think that I should go lower with this type of setup?

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I'd say run it w/a 190 and see what it does. You have an actual water temp gauge or just the stocker? Lilevo(s) got away w/stock 1.5 single core radiator on hot days. Even my car creeps to 210 and stabilizes if you're idling for a half hour using a 190 stat, thick koyo evo1 rad, two spal fans on a 95 deg humid day. The honda half radiator setups still scare me with not having enough area for shedding thermal energy fast enough. But havent tried it for myself.

Deepest fan blade depth you can get away with is more important than diameter. Scour the yards for an elantra fan, its a little thinner profile than the 1.5 fan and flows a TON more air than a slimline and I believe the bolt holes line up.

should be a fun street terror when ironed out.

Good news guys it idles now! Unfortunately I've run into a couple more problems.

Problem number 1: My newish looking turbo o2 sensor reads triple goose-egg, 0.00 on my palm mmcd setup!

Problem number 2: I can't shift gears while the engine is running. You push in the clutch and attempt to change gears the engine bogs down slightly


The o2 is plugged in and as far as I can tell it should be working. The wires look good up to to the injector harness. I didn't touch any of o2 sensor wiring while I was rewiring the other items. Maybe it's a bad o2. As far as the clutch is concerned I have not made any adjustment on it yet. I'm hoping I can adjust it to a point where the clutch releases otherwise I think I may have installed the disc backwards(slaps forehead). I remember scratching my head trying to figure out which side was the flywheel side when I installed the clutch. Can't remember what I came up with though.

One other note, with a boost/vacuum gauge installed it idles at 20 (in or lbs, not sure) of vacuum, if I tap the gas to bring the revs up a couple grand it dips lower to 25. Shouldn't it rise closer to zero with the 14b on there? Before I installed the turbo I checked for shaftplay and there was little to none. It did spin freely by hand. I sure hope I'm not wrong about this turbo.

My head is just swirling with questions and "what if" scenarios right now. I've spent a good 8 months so far researching, gathering necessary parts and working on this conversion when I had the time to spare. Its driving me a little crazy.

The "ironing out" continues.

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More progress... my O2 sensor was junk hence no reading at all. I've also come to the conclusion that I must have have installed the disc backwards. No adjustment left in the clutch and it was bled properly. I'm using a Fidanza aluminum flywheel paired a stock disc and ACT 2100 pressure plate. Fidanza says there flywheel is designed for a stock clutch and step height. ACT says their clutch is designed for stock flywheel step height. I had another stock disc laying around in my shop where the flywheel side was clearly marked, so I don't know how this could've happened. Any one got any thoughts before I rip the tranny out on Saturday?

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Yes,
please consider swapping out your master and slave cylinders for NEW ones if you havent done so already. The newer HP discs exert [sp] more resistance on the slave and master. If they have never been swapped out, chances are, fluid is seeping past the rubbers inside them. I would swap those out before pulling the tranny.

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Geoff
2013 Genesis 5.0 RSPEC
88 Mazda Turbo II- LSX7
89 2.0 Turbo Colt
13 Ducati 1199 Panigale

Thank you Mr Hyde. The slave cylinder is fairly new... but the master on other hand I have no idea how old or how long its been on this chassis. I will replace the master and report back my findings.

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After Installing a new master cylinder the clutch still would not disengage, so I pulled the tranny out of the car. Went down to a local DSM shop and asked some questions and came back with a brand new fork, pivot ball and AWD slave cylinder. After shimming the pivot ball and reinstalling everything the clutch now works.

New Problems.

Tranny...
Won't stay in 4th.
No reverse.
I'll be talking to the DSM shop that I paid $1500 to rebuild this tranny immediatly.

The car bucks violently with light throttle while in gear and rolling. If you floor it it accelerates normally. No cel. As far as I can tell everything electronic is good and wired in properly. Any ideas on what would cause this? I've only been working with DSM's for about 5 yrs now so I don't know everythin and I don't have the slightest idea why its doing this.

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Your transmission problem sounds like a shift linkage issue to me. I would say take your center console apart and adjust the front to back cable. I say this because of the welded shift arm you installed may not be exactly where it should be. I had to do this on my car.

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91 Talon - was 454 whp/440 ft/lbs, now DD
89 C52A - 4G63T To the crusher
91 C52A - 4G63T Up and Running (AWD swap coming!)

Thanks, that makes sense to me. As far as the bucking I'm thinking there is a bad connection in one of the 7 maf wires because I saw it reading below 100 hz at part throttle. Think I'm on the right track with that?

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As far as the air flow you are seeing get in touch with Luke and see what he says. Have you checked for boost leaks? Base ignition timing correct? Timing belt set right? I am home this weekend Eric if you need me to head over to check some things over.

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91 Talon - was 454 whp/440 ft/lbs, now DD
89 C52A - 4G63T To the crusher
91 C52A - 4G63T Up and Running (AWD swap coming!)

I'm going to look over my wiring tonight and make some adjustments on the shift linkage and see what happens. Thanks for your help so far.

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More Progress.

No more violent bucking!

After looking up some info on that 7th maf wire it appeared that I wired it into the wrong pin# on the ecu harness. I'm using a 92 turbo ecu and I had it wired to pin 14. Pin 6 already had a black wire in it and 14 was open when I wired it in. The previous ecu was marked 91 nt noneprom on the case but I don't think its 91 anymore.

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

I now have all 6 gears working too after some adjustment. Good call Harvey!

I don't have boost leak tester so no leak test was performed. After warming the car up I now have base timing set to about 4 degrees BTDC and idle is set to about 1000 rpm now also.

During the roadtest I noticed that the car shudders under light throttle while in gear. Some knock at the same time but no more than 5 counts. It gets more pronounced with each gear and is most noticeable in 5th. Still scratching my head.

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