4g61t.org

both the white NT swap and Red w/5 lug are sweet looking cars. I used to have a 3g summit hatch that was swapped with a 2.0NT/5spd NT talon trans (F5M22?) that I daily drove year round, but sold it last year. I miss that car. On snow tires it would blow through drifts over the hood. Not "crazy fast" but plenty of grunt considering it was a rusty WI car with stock brakes. A world of improvement over the 1.5 and still saw high 20's for MPG's.

If its your daily driver and you have all that NT stuff on there, I'd move in that direction personally. Can't beat the turn-key and go nature of the 63NT.

Currently its a 7bolt turbo motor and harness being run with no turbo and a nt ECU. I was wrong on the injector size. They were blue 275s instead of the tan 240s. Today I stuck the 240s in without changing anything else and it runs like a champ. Noticeable difference on the butt dyno. That should put me back around 120-125hp I was wanting.

Also had the car weighed with me out of it and only a few gallons in the tank giving me 2340lbs.

I do plan on putting a turbo on in the next month or two but right now I am broke. This A/F issue was hurting my mileage so since it was a zero dollar fix I changed it.

Just out of curiosity.. What ARE you getting for MPG's?

I'm currently running a DOHC N/T setup as well, but I have mine set up differently.

Rebuilt 6-bolt NT engine
560 injectors
510 MAF (JDM GVR4)
NON-EPROM (450) 90 turbo ECU
1.6L turbo wiring harness (90's electronics)
4th gen CSM 5-speed manual swap

I'm getting average 27-28 mpg running stock 1.5 exhaust w/ 90 octane (ethanol added).
This is w/ very spirited driving on mixed roads.

-Shawn

I am getting 30-31 on the odometer but its wrong. I have the eclipse tranny and cluster as you can see in the pictures with smaller tires. When im going 80 on the interstate im actually going 71-72 so its off by 10%. So my real mileage is closer to 27ish. That was with the bigger injectors in so I hope it will do better after the change to the right size.

Ah, that's pretty cool that we get around the same gas mileage. Although it has me pondering what kind of power is coming out of mine. I'm hoping to improve gas mileage w/ the upgraded exhaust & the addition of a turbo, but we shall see.

As for my fuel mileage, that's w/ a good trip of it going 75-80 mph actual, so Im thinking if I stick around 70 I should be able to get a mpg or two.

Thanks for the speedy response.

-Shawn

_________________
MEMBER #1495

'92 Dodge Colt 63 swap (SOLD)
'92 Galant VR-4 (it's Alive!!)
'12 Forester (DD)
GONE:
'92 Plymouth Colt 12v 4M->5M
'90 Dodge Colt GL 8v 3A
'89 Plymouth Colt 8v 5M
'92 Galant LS
'92 Galant GSR
'93 Galant LS
'93 Galant S

I spend alot of time around 70-80 commuting 30 miles to work. The rest of the time I beat it around town. I dont worry too much about mileage since I built it to go fast...just gotta fix the going fast part now

Took the car back to the dyno with the right size injectors. The wide band was broken but I did manage to pick up 4hp! I wanted more but it is what it is. My mileage did not change though. I figure once your cruising the computer starts listening to the O2 sensor anyway to fix the fuel mix so it wont show up.

You should show us how to put on the 5 lug set. I have a donor eclipse and would like to do the same 5 lug swap. thanks

_________________
Build it, Race it, Break it, REPEAT!!!!

Yeah man I really want to know more about the 5 lug swap too. Are those DSM steering knuckles? Did you need camber plates?

I've been working on putting GVR-4 knuckles in my car, and I'm wondreing if there's any camber difference if I put my GVR-4 hubs on DSM knuckles.

I'm guessing he just made the complete dsm rear axle beam work or chopped off the ends and welded them to the csm axle. It would be nice to see some pics of the setup up close.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

The rear end is like mirageman said. Take the control arms off the CSM and weld them to the DSM. They are different lengths so its important to size it EXACT. When my dad first welded it in it was off by 1/16th to one side and it drove down the road sideways feelin. That part of the swap is pretty straight forward. No real complicated stuff.

The front is a whole different story. Let me see if I can remember this right. You use the DSM hub and spindle with the CSM control arms. If you want to use DSM axles now they fit perfect. We kept the CSM axles by getting a different grease seal.

The next problem is the tie rod ends are too short on the CSM compared to the DSM and it makes the wheels look like this: \ / from above. To solve this the INNER part of the steering column that attaches to the rack is 1/2" longer than the CSM. So you swap just that inner rod (bolts right on) and it fixes the steering issue.

Next you will have is the steering jumping around on bumps from the tie rods connecting on different sides between the CSM and DSM. This is from where the tie rod attaches to the spindle. The CSM and DSM mount on different sides and it wont just fit in. It is on a special taper to just drilling through isn't a good idea either. He bought the special taper tool for $90 from the auto parts to drill it on the bottom like the DSM uses.

Lastly you need to slot the struts to allow them to pivot so your camber is right or the wheel will look like \ from the front. After that the car is basically 100% DSM from the steering to the hubs.

I will try to get some pictures next time the car is apart which should be soon. That is the description of what was done. The hard part as always is the modification of EVERYTHING. It seems to work pretty good now. Its been on the car for 2-3 months with no issues. Next that car is getting a 4g64 in April. Should be fun then

I found the seal to make the CSM axles fit: NATIONAL Part # 225082. They fit an 89 2.4L Sonata GL. As for the tapered drill . I was comparing the DSM/Gvr-4 knuckles, and not only do the tie rods go in from the other direction, but the arms sit higher than the CSM arms, so I figured inverting the tie rod would work more closely to stock dimensions. Also, the CSM steering arms are shorter by about a half inch. I'm starting to think I'm into more fun than I bargained for.

The steering arms are 1/2 shorter. You need to take the inner steering rods out and swap them. They are 1/2 longer each. That is an awesome thing to be able to swap seals isn't it

Yeah the seals are great, but I meant the steering arms on the knuckles are a different length, not the inner tie rods. I aasume your dad drilled out the steering arms from the bottom, and put the tie rods in further than stock to prevent bumpsteer? If you put the tie rods in from the top like the CSM knuckles are, the suspension geometry would suffer severely.

I hope this works well because I already bought brand new 276mm slotted rotors and yoshifab camber plates, used twin pot calipers, and I sandblasted and painted a set of Gvr-4 Knuckles and hubs that I picked up on trade. If my car doesn't feel stable at 125mph then there's not much point in upgrading the brakes.

WOW good info!

I would just consider this swap just to put in DSM axles. Maybe I will do that after I snap the mirage turbo axles

Are you using the FWD rear struts then?

But it looks like a lot of modifying
I love the Cherry bomb exhaust. How does it sound?


HOWEVER another way of converting the front

Buy 4g knuckles (cheep from the junkyard I will even find you a set if you want)
Remove 4X100 hub
Put in g4rv hub (or dsm 5 lug hub) into the 4g knuckle

I compared my 3g mirage knuckles to my 4g mirage knuckles and they are VERY similar

the downside is that you will have to use mirage turbo axles...