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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:18 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Oil pan swapped- check
LC1 finally working- check

She is officially back up and running, just waiting on the 1050cc injectors I got from keith- and then the tuning will begin! The LC1 has to be calibrated if you don't have a gauge fyi. I also found out that the 12v source I was using didn't supply enough voltage so that was why the reading was messed up. The exhaust isn't any louder then an open downpipe, I was a little surprised. I can't wait to get this thing tuned and to the track!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:39 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
I got the 1050cc injectors in today and installed them. Tomorrow I will start tuning after work but I got all the new setting put into ecmlink.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:24 am
Posts: 189
Location: ct/ri
Quote:
I got the 1050cc injectors in today and installed them. Tomorrow I will start tuning after work but I got all the new setting put into ecmlink.
glad to see there getting used


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:59 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
O how I have missed this car... It's loud, stiff, hard to turn, fugly and full of vibrations and makes me smile every time I hit the gas.

First tuning session is complete with the new setup. I didn't have to change hardly anything after my initial ecmlink setup so that was pretty cool. I only ran 17psi wg pressure to make sure everything was good to go but my 60-80 time was 1.9 seconds. Basic overview of the tune- 93 pump, 15* peak timing, 10.5-11.0:1 AFR @ 17psi. My boostest and map sensors were almost spot on at 5500 rpm so my ve table looks like it's pretty inline. If anyone knows how to post a log on here I'll post it up. I'm always open to suggestions on improving it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:56 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
I've put about 250 miles on the mirage now. My first tune had a pretty big boost leak at the fuel injector seals, the ones that came with them weren't the correct ones and didn't seal. I also did a lot of tweaking to the VE, timing and octane tables.

First and only trip to the 1/8th so far netted me a 8.0 @ 94mph. I was killed off for not having a helmet so that was my only run. I bogged the launch, and had a pretty crappy tune but it's a good start. I picked up 8 mph from the 14b in just the 1/8th, I'm hoping I'll pick up around 20-25mph in the 1/4 once boost gets around 30psi.

On a side note my tune now at 21-22psi nets me a 70-90 time of around 1.65. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:59 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Wow, it's been over two years sense I've updated this thing... A lot has changed, new career, a one year old and super busy schedule.

Not much going on with the mirage at the moment, the motor has been taken apart and a cracked piston was found. So the car is sitting half apart. While it's apart, I will be doing a lot of changes.

I've sourced a wiesco/eagle 6 bolt, upgraded head with HKS 264s and an auto setup. Turbo will be a HX35 in BEP housing with an tial 38mm off the o2 housing. I got a great deal on an old school Buschur race FMIC. I'll be using the stock TCU with a switch to use a Roadsurge shift box and Evo X paddle shifters.

I'm planning on doing he usual upgrades to the auto trans and having the stock converter restalled.

I've spent a probably 20+ hours working on the auto wiring harness. I cleaned it up, removed all unnecessary wiring and shorted pretty much every wire as well as hard wired SD stuff in. It looks tons better now.

On top of going auto, I will be replacing the dsm knuckles with expo knuckles to correct the bump steer issues. The rear suspension will be adjusted for the angle of the rear struts.

Radiator will be replaced with an aluminium unit and some ducting will be made for the FMIC and radiator.

Brake master and booster will also be upgraded to larger units to match the dual piston calipers up front.

I'm still debating on completely ditching the stock gauge cluster and using all aftermarket gauges. I'm trying to figure out a good solution to cleanly install the gauges where they are easily visible.

Tires are Yokohama all-seasons that are a bit taller than stock to help with the top end with the auto. From what I read all-season should be a better choice for drag/straight line traction and that's what this car will be made to do.

Goals are to be in the mid to high 10s without having to worry about much breaking. With the weight and power, this should be very attainable. This is at least another year away unfortunately but such is life. :toothless:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 12:10 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
Posts: 552
Location: Astoria OR
For the gauges solution, go megasquirt with a blue tooth adapter then velcro a 7"to 10" tablet right over the stock gauge locations plastic viewing area. All the gauges you would ever want with pinpoint accuracy and the ability to add/change/swap back and forth/change sizes etc..... :supz: kind of a joking since it probably isnt your direction but seriously that would be sick, adjustable backlighting and everything while still being completely removable. Good luck however you go about it :)

_________________
Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
Keane


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:47 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:51 pm
Posts: 898
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
I'll be removing my factory auto tach'd cluster over winter if you are interested in going that route too.

_________________
'89 Colt GT - All the rare goodies
'98 TSi AWD - Clean street car


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:52 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Quote:
I'll be removing my factory auto tach'd cluster over winter if you are interested in going that route too.
I don't think using an auto over a manual cluster would make much difference. The only thing I use it for now is speedo and gas gauge and the speedo will be off now so I guess common sense would say just build a gauge panel and use all aftermarket. I already have a shift light/digital tach gauge, coolant temp, oil pressure, boost so I will need to get a trans temp gauge and possibly a speedo or just use a gps for speed.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:01 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Yearly update time! Still slowly but surely coming together. I have everything I need (knock on wood) now just to find time to put it all together and get it running again.

Image

Built 6 bolt is installed, I pulled the pan and oil pump to check everything and found some gouges in the oil pump and the crappy stub shaft with no oil groove so new oil pump installed with factory BS elim kit. Timing components replaced, water pump and pipe as well. Everything else inside the motor looked good to go. Sticking with the HKS 264's, hoping that will help with low end/quicker spool with the auto.
The engine bay is a little more complete than this now actually, engine harness is in and fuel lines are in. Waiting on compressor cover to have a 90* elbow welded to it and 02 housing to have Tial vband flange welded on it.

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Expo driveshaft, shortened, and Mighty Max carrier bearing installed. This allowed me to fabricate a mount easier, sense I was going to have to redo it anyway due to the front shaft being longer than a DSM. It is level across the mounting points and the holes are slotted so you can make minor adjustments.

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Holset oil drain setup, 3rd and best version I've come up with. Factory Holset return cut and rewelded to drain the direction I need, -12AN return at the pan.

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My solution for gauges and cluster. My factory cluster fell and broke the stock front plastic and I had already previously modified it to hold two gauges. I decided to go a little further and this is what I came up with. My wideband gauge fits perfectly right in the middle. I am going to mount my other 2 gauges and the boost gauge in that area when I get the gauge panel in.

Image

Driveshaft mount fabricated and installed under the car. I left room for adjustment up and down and side to side incase I need it later. Much happier with this driveshaft/mount solution than previous, hoping there will be no more issues.


Unpictured, I finished up some rear strut spacers to fix the angle issue and add a little more clearance. They aren't perfect but they will do what I need them to do so don't care. lol If anyone is wondering, Galant strut mounts are the correct spacing for the mounting holes on a CSM.

Auto rearend is swapped in and everything is back installed.

Maybe by the end of the year it will be running again.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:08 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
More stuff done, starting to look like a complete engine bay again.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:24 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Image

Transmission and engine oil coolers installed!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 3:29 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Getting close to start up time, only thing really left is finishing up gauge wiring before I can attempt to turn it over. Fluids are all filled and the engine bay is all tied up!

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Once everything is checked and looking good running, it's off to get a dump tube fabbed and start some tuning. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:35 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Image

Gauge setup completed and working, the little hole drilled out in the middle of the speedo is the gear indicator for the roadsurge shift box. Fingers crossed, first start should be tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 7:06 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Well she is alive. Fired up and ran surprisingly well. Honestly I'm surprised it ran at all cause after I checked the log, I saw it lost all of the setting I thought I had saved earlier so it was running blindly with no sensor inputs for SD or my wideband. But oil pressure looked good, it sounds great, no weird noises, etc. All in all, not too bad.

I'll get everything figured out and then check the transmission and hope nothing is screwed up there. lol


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