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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:54 am 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
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Wow, that car has some old-school mods on it for sure. I'd ditch that FMU thing with the quickness.
Everything is being ditched, and yeah, old school is what I was thinking too. The FMU thing is history of course. The whole fuel system is in need of upgrading.

If he shows up today to start dissassembly I'll get some money shots of the bottom. It's probably no big deal to you guys in California or Nevada, but around here, most cars ten years newer than this one would have rust around all the spot welds underneath.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:28 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Nice find !
Warning with your air filter, is dead !


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:59 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Warning with your air filter, is dead !
Yeah it's a fossil :o


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:29 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin
Looks like all sorts of POM's to fix. :lol:

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1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:20 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
It's Alive!!!!

The thread, not the car.
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Then a few days later:
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:48 am 
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Location: Cincinnati, ohio
Depedning how many miles are on the enigne, I'd just do a BS delete, a built head and a GT3582R + support and it'll make 450hp with ease.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:19 am 
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Location: Htown, TX
Wow, that thing is awesomely clean! I say throw a HX40 w/ BEP .70 a/r t3 housing on it for 600hp dd and good price.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:01 pm 
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
It has around 100,000 on it, and he refused to go through it and work out any possible driveability issues before starting the teardown. He drove it back to NY from Alabama with the hoseclamps finger tight on the upper IC pipe to TB elbow coupler. The shifter bushings were gone, and you had to punch the radio and still only 50% of the time get third gear. Who knows if the Syncros are worth a damn. He said he doesn't care if the syncros are good. Heck, we don't even know if it's eprom yet.

"It doesn't matter, everything's going to be new" :hail:

What we think is set in stone for now is:
-Forged pistons and rods (9:1 CR maybe)
-kiggly girdle (already purchased I think)
-BS delete
-Fully machined block
-balanced rotating assembly
-Ecmlink
-large water to air IC
-TRE stage 3 or whatever they're calling it now
-compact fanless carputer running windows XP
-indash 7" sunlight viewable touchscreen VGA monitor (already purchased)
-KYB gr2 struts and shocks (already purchased)
-Lowering springs
-Two 200watt amplifiers for the front and rear channels, and one 400watt subwoofer amp, to support the 4.1 surround system
-Garmin USB18 GPS (already purchased)
-4 new OEM rear control arms (already purchased)
-Bosch 044 intank pump
-AN8 fuel supply line
-AN6 return
-I believe he's going to need a twin disk
-Black Cherry paint job
-twin piston front calipers (already purchased from Chris)
-lightweight rims
-energy suspension bushings everywhere (already purchased)
-carbon fiber hood (already purchased)
-ricy body kit [-(
-FP HTA GT3586R Ball Bearing Turbocharger (Yeah the $1749 one :o )

If that doesn't make enough power (on pump gas) were tossing in a $450 water/meth system

The reason for the water to air IC is to avoid running 3" piping throughout the area where the A/C and P/S will be staying. :supz: The water radiator (short and wide) fits down in front where a FMIC would go, and the water lines will run up behind the passenger side foglamp.

He's spoken to a member here about a red interior, but I don't think he's entirely sure about wanting to make the drive to Mass. I think if he goes that route it's going to get new racing buckets for the front.

So far as you can see in the pictures, the body is almost stripped, and he restored/cleaned the whole thing with Mr. Clean degreaser and paper towels. The bottom looked brand new after that. The black you see applied underneath is truck bedliner spray. He painted the inside of the floor with rustolem. He also sprayed the rear subframe, diff, and trailing arms with rustolem spraybombs. It's never going to see a winter, but you can't be too carefull up here.

The car already came with a beefy aftermarket rear sway bar, and in the front it has that aftermarket dual sway bar setup. For those who haven't seen it, they sell an aftermarket add on swaybar for 1g DSMs that bolts on underneath the front subframe and control arms.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:52 am 
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I bent a 1/2" aluminum fuel supply line that follows the original path for him yesterday (fun), and decided to run a 1/2" return with the left over tubing. Is that overkill? I know the return is typically smaller, but somehow that doesn't sit well with me, so I like to run equal sizes. After all, under decell all the fuel has to return to the tank right?

After that's affixed to the floor we can start putting suspension back in.

I'll get pictures soon.

Ps. He ordered a Bosch 040 intank pump. Operating pressure 94psi at 12v with a minimum flow of 300lph. :supz: I wish my shower had the capacity of this fuel system. LOL


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:40 am 
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Quote:
Ps. He ordered a Bosch 040 intank pump. Operating pressure 94psi at 12v with a minimum flow of 300lph. :supz: I wish my shower had the capacity of this fuel system. LOL
Nice, sounds like the fuel system I'm planning to run. A stock 93-98 Supra TT fuel pump (~300lph @ 43psi when re-wired) in a swirl pot feeding twin Bosch 044 inline pumps with -10 feed/return lines and 1600cc injectors. I figure it'll be like a fire hose, perfect for E85.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:57 am 
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Location: SoCal and Wisconsin
3" IC pipes are overkill. He would be fine with 2.5"

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:19 am 
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Location: Htown, TX
Couple things I'd change. I'd go Jack's for the tranny, he stands behind his work and is awesome to deal with. A friend of mine has stripped 4th gear in his tranny 4 times and Jack has taken care of it every time.

Why is he using a basically stock suspension on a built car?

He won't "need" a twin clutch. He could use a 2600 lb pp with a unsprung 6 puck or something of that sort. Twins are a bear to get to launch well and a pita if he'll be driving any city stuff.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:40 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:19 am
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
Quote:
Couple things I'd change. I'd go Jack's for the tranny, he stands behind his work and is awesome to deal with. A friend of mine has stripped 4th gear in his tranny 4 times and Jack has taken care of it every time.

Why is he using a basically stock suspension on a built car?

He won't "need" a twin clutch. He could use a 2600 lb pp with a unsprung 6 puck or something of that sort. Twins are a bear to get to launch well and a pita if he'll be driving any city stuff.
John (the car owner) told me TRE had something laying around that someone stiffed him on, and he was getting a deal.

He bought KYB GR2 struts, energy suspension urethane bushings, and some lowering springs, and it came with a bigger rear sway bar, and two front sway bars. What else do you think he should modify on the suspension. It's mostly for street use. I pointed out the availability of active toe eliminators for the rear, but he didn't want them. Just all new ball joints, bearings, sway bar links, tie rods, slotted rotors, EBC pads, twin pot front calipers. What else is there?

I just figured that if he's aiming for 700HP a twin disk would hold the torque better. People who have them always say how they would never go back.

Quote:
3" IC pipes are overkill. He would be fine with 2.5"
Oops, my mistake, the IC inlets and outlets are 3.5":
Image
Good thing it only needs about a foot and a half of pipe. :rock:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:30 pm 
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Location: 48205
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Having a totally streetable DSM with 500-700hp is not going to be an easy task. I hope he's prepared to spend a lot of money.
It took my best friend Bob 3 years and about 14,000 to get in that range, everything is either brand new oem, or built though. It can be done for less, just not as "reliable"

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:01 am 
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Location: Htown, TX
I personally would put something other then OEM replacement shocks in a car that is going to be shooting for 700hp. At least some AGX's or Koni Yellows although a full coilover setup would be best.


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