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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:34 am 
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I supposed if the full swing is seen and it still sees 0/100%, it shouldn't matter. Just one of those values that stuck in my head over the years and was staring me in the face.

Updated the first post in this built thread, to reflect more part numbers, updates, tweaks, things I had forgotten to add, etc etc.
Hood is now R52 red and may get the nod for a plastidip rising sun motif. A thougt for another day, but the hood came with the shell I stripped and must remain installed due to the radiator no being able to sit lower (north south bar fitment) and rad cap sitting in where I excised the support structure on the underside of the hood. For now the hood is polished and looking good minus some old fluid stain damage that runs DEEP. My rags were red, very "red" when I finished my hand held cut and polish routine back in august.

Yesterday, I washed the car in the driveway. Rims holding up well, wheel torque stayed at 80 ft/lbs on all but the LF wheel. Slight movement on the flat washer style lugs as I passed over them. This is why paint build up in certain areas, should be prevented/avoided or dealt with shortly after painting occurs with high solid count/build paint. I anticipated this partly because of paint and the lug nuts that I had to tap. Yes, every single lug nut was rusty/no really tapped deep enough to fit my longer studs (even taking into account the spacers/rim lug seat depth), and nearly rounded off a bunch of stud threads at the front hubs. I saved everything, but the aftermarket black flat washer lugs should have gotten more attention from me as I critiqued them just after purchase. No harm done, but for the cost, I can't complain and they are staying "black" until the sun fades them or sockets inevitably cause some flaking of the coating. For now, they should do well, and I love the look of black lugs. Pics to follow now that the car is clean and "together" in final road going mode. I have nearly 800 km's on the car, with all the new parts installed. Re-tightened the serpentine/V-Belts as I was getting some chirping when the car was falling back down below idle speed/hiccupping like these idle speed circuits like to induce with cold motors.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 2:55 pm 
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Wow, been a while since I updated the build. Drove the car until the snow hit the ground. Takes the while for the trans to get up to temp and the trans case and bearings to loosen/oil come to temp type of thing. Once things are warmed up, shifting is pretty good, but I would seriously wish for a ligther pressure plate on my clutch setup. I say this for high RPM shifting, it would be beneficial, or for track days where you are not just 1/4 miling the car.

Anywho, wheel selection time again.

Stock turbo rims and steel rims are sized as follows:

4x114.3mm
14 inch
5.5 JJ
Offset +46mm

Wheel size of the Galant/Summit "Wagon Wheel" (8 spoke style) rims I use now:

4x114.3mm
15 inch
6.0 JJ
Offset + <- checking on this when I have time to read the inside of the spokes/rim hub face depression areas.

Have a set of these:

Fast Wheels F50 - 77083
17 inch
7.0
Offset +40
CB 73mm
Dual bolt pattern 4x114.3mm and 4x100mm

Have a post in on the CSM Performance FB group concerning pictures of CSM's with 17" rims and tire sizes they are running plus how they ride.
I'm on KSport coilovers, so they can take a slighly heavier rim/tire combo, but like when I researched the 15" wheels listed above and tire weighting, I may go with a 16" combination.
I'd ideally flip the 17" rims to fund the 16" setup, should that come about.
I'm not opposed to driving to Ogdensburg NY, to ship these in the US via UPS.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Update. As the car sits.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:10 pm 
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Location: Toronto Canada
where are the pics? i am not allowed?

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1989 3g Colt GT turbo w/4g63t
1988 2g Colt sedan turbo w/4g63t +++++


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:03 pm 
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Hmm, we had this issue brought up by Horci. It was for the Vin Registry.
I got you same error when viewing as a guest but I can see it when logged in.
The issue was broken link or missing file for the picture attachments. Let me know via PM if that changes anything. Picture is still live as of now. This weekend I can probably take some pic of Scrat with the 17's on board. They are so tall, they look good but the car was elevated even more than stock ride height which I think I duplicated with the coilovers and 15's in near stock rolling diameter 205/50's.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
Posts: 552
Location: Astoria OR
Yeah eagle, pics aren't working. What hosting site are you using?

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Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
Keane


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 11:23 am 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
We are having issues with the internal file/picture hosting. The picture was hosted here as a file attachment.
I'll see about adding a pair of photos to an offsite spot to show last years set of wheels and tires and this years taller tire setup.


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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Great read for people considering differential choices on their FWD cars:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/f ... arned.html

All the same principles apply here, regardless of what car is using an identical part. Even better to see how electronic brake control is used and how it correlates to using an ATB diff or not!

I started a new thread for discussion on it, here:

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41034


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 11:35 am 
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Since 2005, this car has now traveled a little under 25,000 km's while under various stages of JSB'ing, rebuild/restoration and road-worthy statuses.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:25 pm 
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Update August 2017:

Clutch master wore out. Installed OEM rebuild kit but scoring in the bores leads me to believe I should be buying a new master outright.

Big box of parts from AE has arrived courtesy of the shipping department at PartSouq.com.
More parts scheduled to ship out when Amayama.com receives a few more parts they are waiting on.

I have a complete set of urethane front control arm bushings and rear panhard rod bushings to look at installation for this winter. The control arm bushings will go in a set of cleaned and grease free control arms that shipped in from California.

Received a vintage DSG shift knob that was a "thing" with the Galant VR4 guys. Now my C53A can be part of the E39A wannabe club. The knob is white Delrin and quote smooth. Should be cooler to the touch in the sun, but the AC still works well so that takes the extreme heat when I kick it in after running the engine for a while.

Using the wideband as a primary sensor and having simulated narrowband has a weird effect on the startup procedure I have to go through with LinkV3. Maybe it will hangs once I go back to dedicated narrowband signal and wideband secondary for logging and visual output.
Here is my scenario:

If I start the car, I have link set to a standard 15 seconds of "disregard the 02 sensor output", and it runs strictly off the maps. This gives me enough time to rev up the engine and get the car out of the garage before the wideband actually gives an output on the screen. If I drive away before the output comes up, my idle will be "learned" their on way, meaning it will be wonky. If I wait for the wideband to read (remember it has simulated narrowband output with Link), I have okay idle characteristics (which still could use tweaking). It is a bizarre phenomenon that I would like to solve. Ever stall in traffic an think about having to wait 30 seconds while idling to he a perfect idle at the next set of lights ... This is the point that gets me wanting to fix the whole setup.

I have been putting in lots of fuel, holding off on adding timing and playing with any setting this season. I just want to drive the car, the rest comes later. The bicycles were calling and life feels better when there isn't a car taking up space in your subconscious.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:54 pm 
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Nice list you got there. May I know what cat you're using? Does it work well with the Magnaflow muffler?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:20 am 
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Catalytic is a CarSound Generic 2.5, and I hesitate to say high flow model. It is meant as a regular catalytic converter replacement, so not a racing model. We will see how it puffs for Etest in the spring.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 7:54 pm 
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Spring cleaning has me rethinking many things about the car.


First off I could never get my 02 sensor situation sorted. I will start with a fresh sensor, remove the wideband from the ECU input's entirely, and see what happens on a log.

I am going to order a new ntk narrowband sensor for main running signal to the ECU, and a new Bosch LSU4.2 wideband sensor for tuning input to the MTX-L.

Asked around and some are using the new MTX-L PLUS that comes with the newer, redesigned Bosch LSU4.9 sensor, but seems many are having issues with the sensor delicacy.
You can apparently updated the plug end and reflash the firmware in the MTX-L to use the newer LSU4.9 sensor, but I don't think I want to go to that hassle just yet.
Reasons why the LSU4.9 sensor is better, and a full comparison of the two generations of Bosch sensors and why they fail, 2 links:

http://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-ban ... lications/

https://www.ecotrons.com/accurate_lambd ... 2_sensors/

Next up are my thoughts on what I can do to return to better operation with regards to engine management and hardware/drivetrain changes to better suit my mood and the way the car actually gets driven.

The engine has always run a little funny, and it seems that tuners agree and the solution may be simple.

Run a narrow band sensor straight to the stock 02 input and use the wideband strictly as a comparison.

I was running narrow band sim, my signal for narrow band would no longer work with two different 02 sensors and even with rewiring a known good signal harness into place, no change.

Engine response and graphed output were showing a long or delayed swings in the 02 swing with for simulated output shows as 0.2V low and 0.8V high with nothing in between, so things just don't seem to jive very well with the engine management, or to what I would say is my liking. Tuners have said, straight narrow band input, which parts contradicts what Link says on their site about being able to use the sim function and just run a wideband ... maybe now we see why it can be done, but should be a last resort if something goes bad and you simply swap pins, if both are still wired in place.

Big changes will come in the form of clutch/pressure plate/flywheel change.

I would like to get back to a near stock pedal feel for the clutch. Heavy pressure plates are fine and will get you higher torque holding capacity, especially when used with higher friction disc/plate combinations.

My lightweight flywheel is great for quick shifting and does have a replaceable friction surface, but I would like to add some mass back into the rotating assembly.

I have never had the engine up past 7k, save for one spirited run to prove what it could do while tuning on the street, at night, on a cold evening.

Clutch has never been intentionally slipped, or to the drag strip. Never been launched, never been shifted at exceedingly high RPMS past OEM redline.

It will require longer bolts like those from Mitsu that RTM Racing.com sells, or in the case of what I will be re-using, the ARP's that also work for Toyota.


Home :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 1g (90-94) :: Drivetrain & Transmission :: Flywheel :: ARP Longer Flywheel Bolts: DSM


Not sure if I want to go back to 18-19lbs OEM flywheel weighting, but 11.9 lbs for an ACT Streetlite, sounds reasonable.

Looking into the possibility of getting a Fluidampr crank shaft harmonic dampener both for longevity of the dampener, and if it actually adds so mass compared to a stock damper, that remains to be seen.

If anyone knows the weight of a stock harmonic damper pulley, let me know!

Fluidampr states 7.x lbs statis, 5.x lbs rotating mass, as the design used plates internal pushing through a viscous liquid, so not all is considered rotating given the actions and physics that occur.

So, with a larger mass at the crankshaft/clutch rotating assembly, I hope to improve idle (maybe help with AC engagement bog and or alternator loading when fan(s) come on) as more mass is less likely to be affected by accessory engagement, and make for better low speed driveability. I still remember driving around with the 1.6L turbo motor on the 14b and how well it did in parking lot scenarios, at low speed before anything got swapped to 2.0t with cams and lightweight rotating parts. I will compromise with some more weight and a little less quick on the shifts at higher rpm. I honestly don't think the transmission is ever made for high rpm shifting anyways, so lets see what happens in the end.

I will have my parts for sale. They have worked flawlessly since installed in 2010; clutch/pressure plate/flywheel and have seen maybe 5000km's since being installed. They got a new ball and fork in 2010, and another new ball and fork in 2015 because I wanted to make sure things were good when I took the transmission down as part of the rebuild in 2015, with the head and stuff. Only the last 2k have been with the evo3 turbo and the boost has only ever been at 12psi, so this clutch has not even been stressed. This is the HD pressure plate model, so I'll list what is being used and what will be for sale.

Clutch plate and Pressure plate:
HD/Perf Street Sprung - MB1-HDSS new price is $388.45 USD

What ACT has to say about it:
Disc Material
Organic
Warranty
12 Months
Product Weight (lbs.)
11.9
Disc Type
Sprung Street Disc
Pressure Plate Type
Heavy Duty
Input Shaft Diameter (Inches)
7/8
Torque Capacity Over OE
27%
Torque Capacity (ft/lbs.)
320
Friction Surface Diameter (Inches)
8.8
Friction Surface Diameter (mm)
224
Spline Count
20
ItemCodeDesc
HD/Perf Street Sprung
https://www.advancedclutch.com/product/ ... mb1-hdss-2

MB1-HDSS kit features ACT's most popular Heavy Duty pressure plate and most popular street disc. ACT Heavy Duty pressure plates use exclusive diaphragm design to increase clamp load, reduce deflection and maximize clutch life. All diaphragms endure a four-stage, heat-treating process for unparalleled performance. ACT pressure plates have precision cover stampings to provide rigidity and consistency. ACT's Performance Street discs feature premium organic materials with high copper content for better heat transfer and steel-backed lining for greater burst strength and durability. These discs have reduced marcel for faster shift action to complement ACT pressure plates, with increased strength and reliability.

Feel: Light to moderate pedal effort, smooth positive engagement, OE to mild gear rattle;

Life: Longer friction life, extended by ACT's exclusive diaphragm design;

Quality: Carefully engineered, precisely assembled, accurately balanced, with premium organic friction materials for heat tolerance and reduced fade;

Recommended Use: Recommended for street and race use;

ACT Difference: 100% clamp load tested and dynamically computer balanced for smooth high RPM reliability;


Flywheel:

Fidanza 161651 FWD DSM Summit Racing sells at $295 USD with free shipping to the 48

Brand:Fidanza
Manufacturer's Part Number:161651
Part Type:Flywheels
Product Line:Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheels
Summit Racing Part Number:FIZ-161651

Ring Gear Tooth Quantity: 110-tooth
Flywheel Material: Billet aluminum
Engine Balance: Internal
Weight: 8.000 lbs.
Replaceable Friction Surface: Yes
Safety Rating: SFI 1.1
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Fits turbo front-wheel drive models only.

Summit Racing has the proper picture and has this to say about them, as Fidanzas website has the wrong style picture:
Fidanza billet aluminum flywheels feature excellent heat dissipation and weight reduction. The replaceable friction surface is constructed from 1045 steel and attached with military-grade aerospace fasteners. These billet aluminum are manufactured from the highest quality 6061-T6 billet aluminum and feature a 1050 heat-treated steel ring gear that's pressed on and secured with Grade 8 button screws. They also use a stepped dowel system, so that when they're installed they are locked into place. No chromoly can compete with the awesome serviceability, strength, and superior design of the Fidanza billet aluminum flywheels.

The clutch is a 225mm contact area and the pressure plate is a 110 ring tooth count that fits FWD equipped manual transmission Mitsubishis.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 1:03 pm 
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Posts: 9402
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
New parts have been acquired:

NorthStar AGM 24F battery
Specs:
58 lbs - trunk mounted
840 CCA
3 mohm internal resistance
Reserve time 160 mins
76 AH
Dimensions - Height 8.74 inches w/terminal to tip, width 6.77", length 10.9"

ACT XACT Flywheel Streetlite 12.3 lb - step height out of box confirmed by Ottawa Clutch at 0.610"
ACT-600155 FWD DSM 2.0L turbo GST 6 bolt

South Bend Clutch SS/TZ pressure plate and clutch disc combination
K05048SS-TZ

- stage 3 endurance setup, Kevlar disc = TZ, 2200 lb pressure plate = SS
- received a TZ disc with some anomalies, but both RTM Racing and SBC were able to sort this out for me in short order
- long story short the TZ disc had a bulge at the friction surface and as we found out the better Daiken style stage 4 center section with 2 double springs and 4 rubber insulators versus the 4 spring setup, but unfortunately they could not duplicate that as a no cost replacement. Seems during times of low stock for the 4 spring centers, they had to install the better center sections to make their productions runs so people out there almost including me, are using a center section from Exedy that is the section from Exedy Stage 1 clutch discs. Any bad press from the 4 spring center sections was from abuse and or alignment/mating issues with transmissions and engine blocks. I saw some of that evidence on Tuners when researching whether or not to see if the center section was an issue one way or another. Shouldn't be an issue the way I drive and all of the people that posted in Tim Zimmers clutch thread have no issues. Even my ACT has updated center springs and have had no issues.

Seems I will be treating the surface of the pressure plate and flywheel with a sanding or blasting treatment that will allow more porosity for the kevlar to bed in with, greatly reducing the time until it is considered '"mated".

Tim Zimmer uses and offers a blasting service with his Kevlar kits.
Aluminum Oxide - 80/120 grit (max 40 grit minimum 220 grit)
TZ Break in mileage roughly 250-1000 miles
Chromoly flywheels take longer to bed in, because of how strong the steel is

OEM Mitsubishi Clutch master cylinder 5/8" DSM/C53A MB555133
OEM Throw out bearing MD749998
OEM pivot ball MD719602
OEM TOB clip/spring MD706185
OEM engine oil pressure switch 1258A002
OEM turbo oil return crush washers MF660031
OEM Denso oil filter - stubby aka fat style oil filter very tight fit with 91+ DSM sandwich oil cooler MZ690116
OEM sandwich oil cooler inner O-ring MD620908

Denso narrowband 02 sensor
Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor

Silicone couplers/reducers also inbound:
Ebay szyautoparts - 3" or 76mm ID both sides, black 4 ply 4.5mm wall thickness - 9.0mm +/-0.5mm extra
Ebay szyautoparts - 3"/76mm to 3-1/4"/83mm black 4 ply 4.5mm wall thickness - 9.0mm +/-0.5mm extra
Ebay ttfitting/ttr/ttracing - 3"/76mm to 3.15 or 3-1/8"/80mm black 4 ply 5.8mm wall thickness = 11.6mm extra to accomodate for with T clamp measurements for OD of coupler/reducer connection dimensions

Accutek Princess Auto T Bolt clamps x2 Sku 8106312 HC3-350 84-92mm 3.31-3.62in

1-1/4 steel tube thin wall 12" long, to cut down and weld into my intake pipe to achieve a recirculating hose fitting at an angle of my choice. $1.25 from http://www.metalpros.com/ a local metal supplier that carries all kind of off cuts and extra bits in random sizes. Score!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 3:41 pm 
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Posts: 9402
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Just found out that Canadian Tire no longer stocks the 10yr/300,000km type Long Life Asian coolant they once offered in the Motomaster 1933 label jugs.
Part number 029-3070-8
It was recommended for use in Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia, Mitsubishi, Subaru.
Ethylene Glycol base, HOAT, meets ASTM D-3306, D4985, and Japanese Industry Standard JIS K-2234

Put in an order at amayama.com for the following nuts, bolts, washers, wiring holders, o-rings, 90 tb FIAV gasket, turbo coolant banjo bolts, etc.

Warehouse : Japan
Mitsubishi MD614159 3.98 2 7.96 0.006
Mitsubishi MD614300 6.17 2 12.34 0.002
Mitsubishi MD707184 - SEAL 4.07 2 8.14 0.040
Mitsubishi MF472535 - PIN, CONNECTING 1.55 1 1.55 0.002
Mitsubishi MD730727 - SEAL, VALVE 5.38 1 5.38 0.004
Mitsubishi MF140004 - BOLT 1.65 1 1.65 0.005
Mitsubishi MD000312 - WASHER 2.69 2 5.38 0.004
Mitsubishi MF241251 - BOLT 1.80 6 10.80 0.06
FUSO MF660036 - WASHER 2.18 2 4.36 0.004
Mitsubishi MD198728 - BOLT 22.50 1 22.50 0.030
Mitsubishi MB109025 - WASHER 3.98 2 7.96 0.08
Mitsubishi MF450495 - WASHER 2.19 4 8.76 0.008
Mitsubishi MD614246 - CLAMP 2.18 6 13.08 0.030
Mitsubishi MD614532 - BUSH, RUBBER 5.02 1 5.02 0.002
Mitsubishi MS660240 - CLAMP 2.56 4 10.24 0.020
Mitsubishi MF660065 - WASHER 1.42 4 5.68 0.008
Mitsubishi MF650114 - BOLT 5.27 2 10.54 0.07
Shipping: EMS International
Approx. delivery: Apr 13, 2019 - Apr 17, 2019 31.64
Total 172.98 0.38

Also, pulled the F5M33.

Fluid was very contaminated at the bottom of the draining and this is the first fluid drain since the Quaife was installed.
It was pretty grey looking, and had lots of tint to it from metal particles, fine particles. Hopefully things are okay, including syncros - didn't pick up on much brass looking debris though.

Seems the pressure plate fingers are toast. This caused heat build up on the friction surfaces, and some metal transfer from the copper in the disc plate makeup, onto very defined spots on the flywheel friction surface.
at this point the only piece worth keeping and or be able to offer to sell is the base plate for the Fidanza flywheel. The friction surface on the flywheel would require replacement by my standards, and the pressure plate is toast because of the fingers/pivot being at the wrong angles at multiple spots. Either fatigure or long throw were an issue. I can't see having too much throw as things were adjusted a few times to make sure things worked properly, but I don't know for how long this was an issue. It is not an issue where you would smell burning clutch friction surfaces, but it is one where the disc won't slow down during clutch pedal operation, because the pressure plate is lifting only partly due to angle and causing drag on the disc at that point. Some scoring, some metal transfer, heat checking well beyond what I would normally operate a clutch like (I don't ride it at lights/hills etc, but it does require lots of slip to engage this way and start off), and some surface corrosion from the edges of the disc contact plates where they meet the pressure plate and the flywheel indicating a corrosion element from extended sitting, even though mostly garaged. I have never seen that before on a friction surface. It's like the clutch didn't even have a chance to wear the friction surfaces, due to the above conditions. The pressure plate contact area still has the metal machine marks from the bit that cut it "flat", and you can tell that there is uneven wear across the areas on the flywheel friction surface, right across the flat head screw holes. I'm kind of in amazement at the condition of things. I had pulled the transmission out in 2015, to install some new pivot parts and rebuilt the clutch hydraulics IIRC (its documented here), but I left the pressure plate on, as it appeared it had grooves deep enough between the friction contact surfaces, to indicate lots of life left. Hindsight I should have pulled the pressure plate and disc. Did this occur before that or since then, I will never know. I only have pictures that glaze over the areas where the pressure plate fingers are located in view.

Now, on with the show!


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