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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:32 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Bumper on, radiator "Fanned", condenser "Fanned", resistor for condenser cleaned and in place. Intercooler mounted in place with help from my wee lad. He helped me drill and shape the intercooler brackets!
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I made some space, clearance is tight to say the least. However, my upper intercooler pipe will not be able to hit fan blades this time, resulting in an overheat!

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4g61t intake for reference:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:47 pm 
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Had to modify the radiator. The "Galant VR4" clone, came wtih a M14x1.25 threaded bung for the coolant fan temp switch. Our OEM switch is M16x1.5. I use a round bastard file to take the threads down, because drill bits are either too large or don't cut enough of the threads to allow the proper sized tap to start it's business via the tip. Got it done with some tap fluid from the local bolt supply place. Ground a little chamfer at the top of the bung and voila, the rad is in place. Uh, so because the radiator is a copy, it has a few quirks. Tabs for the fans mount the fan somewhat further away from the core, creating what would be a gap with a fan shroud that would otherwise work/sit flush on a stock radiator and core. Also of note, is that the posts for mounting into the top two and bottom two rad mounts, are welded in such a way that the weld material creates a base that it much fatter than stock. This pushes the radiator upwards and pulls it tight against the radiator support! IF you have AC the condenser core will touch the radiator unless you can remedy this. I remove the condenser core bolts then the little metal bushings that go in the center of the rubber mounts. I basically tilted the core back with a portion of the original hardware now in place. They are both so rigidly mounted now that they won't move against one another. Also, you have to mount your fans with the long push pins, onto both units before they can be sandwiched against the radiator support.

I did manage to fit some foam under and above the condenser to keep airflow where it should be, and maintained the rubber side wings for the radiator albeit with a little push inwards past its usual sitting positions because of the way the new radiator contacts the rubber; they should stay put if my spidey sense was correct.

Other details include tapping a fitting onto the upper intercooler pipe, so it is nearly a straight shot downwards to the factory EVO3 wastegate. 12 psi. No MBC. Want it runningm no leaks or finicky behavior. The BOV vacuum line will go direct to the intake, as it should. Now there are no questions about timing or vacuum feeds on the motor. Should I care to modify things, I can do that later. I had a Lower Shores Performance MBC with fine and coarse adjustments, but it never essentially got used and air fuel ratios were wonky, so I couldn't boost; period. I have never had the car in proper form since I owned it. From a turbo with a sketchy wastegate flapper that moved in/out causing boosting issues to an ECU that had been resurrected by our previous admin and DSMchips/Jeff O., to an exhaust that may still hit the rear axle when the car sits really low. Every system got the injector of funding and parts that it needed to make the car safe and allow me to tinker this winter, versus pull my hair out with stripping and cutting up at shell and then transplanting all my parts that arrived from around the world. Has been quite the journey these past few seasons!

Thank you to everyone who has sold me parts, offered advice (solicited or otherwise) and hopefully enjoyed living vicariously through my posts of woe and dismay at janky factory parts that failed one after another due to a hard life and time spent sitting.

Now, I'm headed out to the garage!

Click for build 2016 folder at photob

Let me know if you guys can see this album.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:48 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Teaser:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Clutch setup vacuum bled, then checked for proper operation.
Brake booster input adjusted for minimal freeay at the pedal before the booster/master get into output mode.
Interior buttoned up.
Negative battery cable attached.
Fire extinguisher at the ready.
Engine fired up after a long crank.
Let the engine run for about 30 seconds and shut it down.
Need to remove one heater core hose at the thermostat housing, remove the lower radiator hose and using the hose, flush out the green coolant remaining.
Switch to Motomaster Concentrated Long Life Asian Vehicle Coolant. Product code # 29-3070-8 Yellow Long Life HOAT Coolant (store brand but made by the big fluid companies) that should be good for 5-10 years, 300,000kms or drain rinse repeat whenever I feel like it.
I have a leak at the downpipe flange, but without a belt sander and dropping the pipe, I can't accommodate for the perforations in the mating surface. May have to install a more typical cheap 2 bolt gasket in place of the thick stainless one I have installed now. The exhaust gas stained the old heat shield, and Was aiming quite near the alternator location. A two dollar cheap crush gasket may do a better job. Next item on the list.

Put the wheels on, torqued by hand and then eyeballed the alignment. Way off due to a drastic changed in height and my rotors and spacer now sitting outboard of the hubs. Tomorrow I will place a 2x6 against the front tire at mid point and dial in my inner tie rods. Gotta have it close before rolling out into the driveway to so that flush. Then off to E-Test, plate renewal and check for issues over the first few miles. Hopefully tomorrow I can confirm proper radiator fan operation via the OEM fan switch (new switch and refurbed wiring) and condenser fan operation (reinstalled the resistor and new fan in pusher mode).

If I'm lucky, the sticky turn signal operation that always follows long periods of non use, won't be a big deal. I did install new matching Stanley 168, and W5W front signal/marker bulbs as they were looking rather chromed. When I have time, I can take better more detailed pictures of what is installed around the engine bay. I can say that you can add a four gauge wire to the factory underhood fuse block and even added a spare terminal spade (thick as my wire to the trunk/fuel pump rewire) section to allow a factory 20 amp fuse to be installed where the power window fuse would go. One wire terminal is already "plumbed" into the bussbar, so you only have to add another matching style terminal. A 1991 Talon underhood fuse block terminal will not work, different fitment, but CSM fuse block terminals will. So a terminal from a 1992 Colt fits the 1989 Turbo fuse block.
That's about it for tonight. Who says gutting CSMs can't be beneficial! Spare parts galore.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 1:27 am 
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Got the heater core flushed out.
Turn signal was sticky for the first few left signals and then the internal ball mechanism started working properly again.
Got the car outside, both fans worked in AC mode and the fan temp switch engages just the radiator puller fan when the temp is right. I mixed one jug of 3.78L with tap water, so nearly 7.6L plus less than a litre more to top off the overflow and radiator. We will see where the level sits in the AM and check for hear when idling and how fast it comes on. If you lose heat at idle (or never really have any good heat) you either have air or a blockage. Never had an issue with heat in this car yet, and the core flushed well also.
Next step is installing the hood and seeing if my wheel weights are hitting my newly installed calipers. I suspect clearance is tighter now and I heard a knock after each wheel rotation. Not sure of the clearance yet, so the front end will come up on stands to properly investigate.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 12:01 pm 
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First page updates to show the final layout and just before the red hood gets put in place. It is modified to clear the upper radiator hose fitment and radiator cap.

I used a 2009ish Volkswagen upper or lower radiator hose and a coupler (DSM intake tube recirc metal fitting) in the middle of the two sections I was able to use, as this provided me with a proper sized end for the larger BOV tube fitting on the 2G and the standard fitting on the 1G DSM BOV fitting. This made for a zero stress and proper flowing setup, for the BOV pressure to be reinjected. My JDM 4g61t rubber hose, was lucky to fit over the 2G tube, and was starting to show cracks. My engine vacuum is now quite a bit higher than it used to be after all these new coouplers and T bolt clamps having been installed. Maybe removing the MBC helped also. All I know is that when I saw 16-18 inches, I couldn't believe it.

Next is a little tuning and or straight to the E-test machine during the week. Might have to put in a phone call for tuning help this week.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2016 12:40 pm 
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I eyeballed the alignment while the car is sitting up near the top of its adjustment. Should have no problem clearing speed humps now!
Used a long wooden two by six against the front tire, set up near the mid point of the rim, thanks to so more stacked two by sizes below.
Slapped plates in the window, and took it around the block. Crazy lean on throttle tip in and light cruise. Tuning required badly.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 6:08 pm 
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Location: Kingston , Ontario, Canada
Glad to hear its drivable, how are you tuning?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:22 pm 
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Well as of yet, I only have one feeler out there about tuning locally.
I lost the ability to drive in or out of boost once the EPROM chip and injectors were swapped out for ECMLink. I have enough registered in Link to idle and outer around but I'm so new with the interface, if probably run out of gas before getting to far. I'm stuck in the catch 22 of needing my E-Test to have my plates stickered again (ran out in April!), and being able to tune on the road. Oi.
I'm off till next weekend on vacation, and trying to get my downpipe to o2 housing sealed with a gasket with a crush ring. Got a pair of them this past Friday, from Vibrant Performance products 2.5", two bolt style. Nothing has gone according to plan via timelines, so here it stands. Haha.
If my downpipe flange won't seal properly with the new gasket setup (versus my flat stainless gasket in there now), I will have to cut and weld/have welded, a new flange which I have here. It is super thick and hopefully my studs are long enough to work with it!
I have an old flux core welder that had a stuck feed wire (never really diagnosed it) that in haven't used since I got into the trade and has moved four houses with me, that could very well work, but Inam looking at other options. Be great if I worked at my old job that had me welding something at least once a week. Tit for tat. Long story of where this is headed.

Fix gasket - stock 02 in bung below flange (affected by leak at flange), wideband in factory 02 bung, worked to gauge but not to Link yet. I could wire the wideband output to Link/ECU and simulate narrow band input, but I need to see if this leak being sealed helps anything.
ETest at a local shop. <- assuming all goes well
Sticker plates.
Tune ECMLinkV3 full. <- the conundrum of not being able to drive to a tuner at the moment without leaning out so badly that I damage something worse than I saw my piston tops when the head came off.
Then I can tinker with settings and keep a copy of things just in case I have to revert.

Things this car does not have to do:
NLTS
Stutterbox
Boost by gear
Drag race like a banshee

Things it should:
Hold 12psi wastegate on the EVO3
Idle around 850-900RPM
Shift and run to 7k+RPM
Activate Cyclone around 4200~RPM (EGR pin 53)
FP solenoid is in use for hot start.
Use 2G MAS with recirc function of BOV - all wired and plumbed per stock with no boost cut solenoid.

Mod list on the first page is pretty accurate now.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:33 pm 
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Hmm, also having the car at final ride height would be nice to get the car aligned on the machine and keep my new tires like new.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 7:54 pm 
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Wow, I haven't updated much since I got the car running and running pretty well I might add.

Ride height is just where I want it and the car doesn't dip, ground out on speed bumps and my exhaust no longer hits on the solid axle as I go over big bumps or take long sweeping corners. In fact, long sweeping corners and tight maneuvers are just what I now seek out as I get a feel for the car.

The Dunlop Direzza DZ102 205/50 R15 tires hold really well and so far, I haven't pushed the tires to their break-loose point but off ramps and round a bouts be damned, because it feel like I am driving a much newer car with better geometry; albeit not a completely new car like an Audi, but you get the drift. No, no drifting with FWD. Poor choice of words ....
The LSD really helps the front end to feel planted, but I couldn't tell you if an open front diff would do the same now, as I can only relay how the car feels with the Quaife ATB LSD. Front Galant VR4 rotors a getting the full squeeze with the Wilwood 4 piston calipers and suspected Porterfield pads (no idea what they are, as they have no labels and use a taller plate than the Wilwood versions I had selected in my head, but have not purchased as of yet.

Front end does like to pull straight under heavy braking ... not so much that I would say things are inducing pull to straight, but the phenomenon of having a slightly heavy front brake setup (3000GT master cylinder - check my main page for the correct part) provides a proper stiff pedal and lots of feedback. I jump into my Subaru Legacy Wagon (non LGT) and sometimes forget I shouldn't be deep braking ... but this is all at city main road speeds, so no harm done, just my own internal check mechanisms as I navigate the streets. These brakes come on strong when needed, and rear rotors help with this too.
I am running braided stainless/teflon lines from Technafit. The nice chappy I got on the phone at Technafit, provided me with a great set of lines to get my rear back together, and as I already got Technafit lines for the front with my caliper purchase from a fellow member/PO, I now have a complete setup. My rear flex hoses were suspected original and still in decent shape considering, but I have been wanting to change them for years, but always wanted to do the whole system and be done with it; such a stress to keep in the back of ones mind with all the other changes that had to take place. Much relief is felt now as a result of the product being able to be driven.
I'm not sure if the guys at Technafit have kept my rear line dimensions on file or not, but I did not get nor use their catalogue listing as he preferred to use a single piece line versus the two piece and the little metal squiggle tube in the center of each side. This meant a new routing, but also less change of leaking, while still taking roughly the exact same path. Suffice it to say that the line moved very little but the metal center sections are now in boxes downstairs. I have lots of boxes of stuff like this as time goes by, and all because I may need to keep them as spares or as reference as supply dwindles for replacement parts.

Okay, so I am learning ECMLink v3 and up until now have been taking a long time to digest everything. I have not touched it since it came out, and didn't get to use it much except a year ago before the radiator blew up, again.

So, setup consists of Link needing to see the 2G MAF, dial in the injectors (Rochester style injectors 780's see main page for company name) and had to add additional deadtime to them as STFT fuel trim was quite off.
I had no idea how to use the MAFCOMP ADJUST function, via the "selection based upon log" mode. Turns out you right click on your saved log screen (the graph with all the data coming in with the lines) and then you get a select the MAFCompAdjust function! That is how you get suggested white dots on your MAFComp screen!!! I was so confused and it was such a simple interface selection that I saw no reference to but was given clues to by Scott Lairds videos on YT, and just Link reading in general. So, my 3rd gear pull with my friend beside me, who got to see the engine operating in real time (she said that it was pretty cool to see the load tables and such in tracking mode) can finally supply me with some decent data point changes. Not much was requested for MAF slider changes, but that means it was pretty close. I was however, at only ~50 throttle which is strange because I could have sworn I pinned it, but maybe I was holding back ever so slightly. Time for another late night, cool weather pull and see how it goes. 3rd gear took me up to 130kmh at nearly 6KRPM (at the local dragstrip for anyone asking .... !) Wouldn't want to do that on city roads. **Disclaimer.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:07 pm 
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Should add that I moved the wideband to the stock o2 housing and the narrow band sits in the bung below the 02 housing/DP flange. I should be hooking up the signal wire for the front 02 into the ECU probably back to stock pin 4, but for now the MTX L is sending its signal to LINK via pin 4, then link interprets a narrow band signal from that.
I had a hot restart lean condition which turned out to be my fault for changing the 02 settings, should have set to ignore signal for 10 seconds, 0.02 0.02volts. Runs open loop now until the sensor has basically warmed up and come on, but I still get a lean condition on hot start and low speed timings. I thing part of the coolant temp offsets for fuel are to blame ... but I will have to tweak that later. Everything else seems to be peachy, and I don't see great big bits of knock retard or anything, so that is a plus. Drop to idle is a bit hairy carey, but that may require some more tweaking. I still have a stock 1G ISC installed (2 of the 2G black ISCS in reserve now), and I have the FIAV and ISC running in tandem with coolant lines! So, with my cams set straight up (264/272) I suspect idle may be somewhat tricky with a lightweight flywheel and before the oil and motor and transmission (!) are completely up to temp. Sometimes it is just funky and will go very lean as the RPM drops as you clutch in just as you come to a stop, exascerbated by the fact that headlights and or AC are adding load. There are functions in Link for this, but I want to make sure I am dealing with the route cause and then add the tweaks ... otherwise I may be masking some other issue first.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:55 pm 
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When I was first setting up ECMlink mine wasn't seeing 100% throttle either, granted mine was seeing like 90-95%. I ended up having to use the tps adjustment in ECMlink to get it to see 100% and to make sure the idle switch simulator worked properly (since my idle switch is finicky I think). https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:33 am 
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I think my main issue was decent power delivery and never really leaning into the throttle enough because pickup was so good already. I did have to "learn" how to pin the throttle and how the car would react when under full throttle output. Tires and stiff suspension, make for a bumpy ride over what should be somewhat ordinary minor bumpy type surfaces but it all translates to nearly ejecting one from the seat under the right circumstances. I enjoy the car, but at the standard setting front and rear, the Kontrol Pro cartridges and coil combination are quite stiff. Great for keeping squat in the front under braking and at the rear under acceleration, so good that way. I have always hesitated to use the word harsh during analysis of the suspension, because it takes time for things to loosen up a bit and THEN tweak the settings some, and see how the vehicle reacts. It is a corner monster now, even with 205's on it, but I make no unrealistic assumptions about the speeds it could take certain corners, as compared to more expensive suspension type cars, but it is miles ahead of where it used to be with soft coils and stock shocks/struts that could barely keep the stiffer coils at bay.

I'm pretty sure I get 100% throttle without issue showing in link, just couldn't bring myself to do it unless roads were clear (at night) and decent surfaces. Just don't want to shake anything loose until I figure out how it shifts and how I have to accommodate at higher rpm's.

I have the TPS set to 0.45v per the 90 style setup, but people always post about 0.63v but most drive 91-94 setups, so maybe a difference there? Either way, it sees closed throttle without fail and full swing so far.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:47 pm 
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Interesting, I've never really thought about it but I run my 90 TB at .63v hmmm

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
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