Had to modify the radiator. The "Galant VR4" clone, came wtih a M14x1.25 threaded bung for the coolant fan temp switch. Our OEM switch is M16x1.5. I use a round bastard file to take the threads down, because drill bits are either too large or don't cut enough of the threads to allow the proper sized tap to start it's business via the tip. Got it done with some tap fluid from the local bolt supply place. Ground a little chamfer at the top of the bung and voila, the rad is in place. Uh, so because the radiator is a copy, it has a few quirks. Tabs for the fans mount the fan somewhat further away from the core, creating what would be a gap with a fan shroud that would otherwise work/sit flush on a stock radiator and core. Also of note, is that the posts for mounting into the top two and bottom two rad mounts, are welded in such a way that the weld material creates a base that it much fatter than stock. This pushes the radiator upwards and pulls it tight against the radiator support! IF you have AC the condenser core will touch the radiator unless you can remedy this. I remove the condenser core bolts then the little metal bushings that go in the center of the rubber mounts. I basically tilted the core back with a portion of the original hardware now in place. They are both so rigidly mounted now that they won't move against one another. Also, you have to mount your fans with the long push pins, onto both units before they can be sandwiched against the radiator support.
I did manage to fit some foam under and above the condenser to keep airflow where it should be, and maintained the rubber side wings for the radiator albeit with a little push inwards past its usual sitting positions because of the way the new radiator contacts the rubber; they should stay put if my spidey sense was correct.
Other details include tapping a fitting onto the upper intercooler pipe, so it is nearly a straight shot downwards to the factory EVO3 wastegate. 12 psi. No MBC. Want it runningm no leaks or finicky behavior. The BOV vacuum line will go direct to the intake, as it should. Now there are no questions about timing or vacuum feeds on the motor. Should I care to modify things, I can do that later. I had a Lower Shores Performance MBC with fine and coarse adjustments, but it never essentially got used and air fuel ratios were wonky, so I couldn't boost; period. I have never had the car in proper form since I owned it. From a turbo with a sketchy wastegate flapper that moved in/out causing boosting issues to an ECU that had been resurrected by our previous admin and DSMchips/Jeff O., to an exhaust that may still hit the rear axle when the car sits really low. Every system got the injector of funding and parts that it needed to make the car safe and allow me to tinker this winter, versus pull my hair out with stripping and cutting up at shell and then transplanting all my parts that arrived from around the world. Has been quite the journey these past few seasons!
Thank you to everyone who has sold me parts, offered advice (solicited or otherwise) and hopefully enjoyed living vicariously through my posts of woe and dismay at janky factory parts that failed one after another due to a hard life and time spent sitting.
Now, I'm headed out to the garage!
Click for build 2016 folder at photob
Let me know if you guys can see this album.