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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 7:21 am 
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Some call me a god

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Location: Toronto Canada
Well, 21 Pages later over almost 15 years since you posted this thread. It's an essay on your build. Nice detail.
Are you still selling it?

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DRCOLT
1989 3g Colt GT turbo w/4g63t
1988 2g Colt sedan turbo w/4g63t +++++


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 4:25 pm 
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Thanks Charles, it has been some time hasn't it!

Yes, I am willing to sell it.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:28 pm 
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Part of electrical rehabilitation means updating some parts that leave me with questions about how long they should be in an engine bay ... before they perish or start to act funny with heat.

Mitsubishi MD127351 - RELAY,ENG CONTROL - had ECU's trigger that thing on and off faster than you could snap your fingers ...

Mitsubishi MD129477 - VALVE,AIR BY-PASS - 1G recirc valve/BOV

Mitsubishi MD127742 - TRANSISTOR,IGNITION POWER - maybe build a heat sink for the rear plate to draw some excess heat from extended and higher rpm loads .....

Approx. delivery: Mar 04, 2020 - Mar 06, 2020
Shipping: EMS International (cost 35.28 CAD)
Address: That place in Canada where the Liberals currently do their thing.
Total $406.1 CAD
Weight 0.63 kgs

Email went in with Sheridan Engineering aka bradrs on the forums (including here) to find out about replacement ECU connector terminals for a 1G style, ignition transistor connector with terminals and weather pack seals.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:42 pm 
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That PTU was the culprit with mine this past month.
I've also changed the CAS to a new Denso unit.
What's the history on your motor? Rebuild or used? Mileage?

_________________
DRCOLT
1989 3g Colt GT turbo w/4g63t
1988 2g Colt sedan turbo w/4g63t +++++


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:21 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Motor was a JDM Import. PO was kind enough to offer the motor up at a deal while we traded space at my rental town house to tear down his Eagle Talon that was no longer fit for the road.
I installed that motor as is, until it got reworked with head work (cleaning/seals/machining), paint to the head, HKS cams and Fidanza adjustable cam gears around 2013.
OEM composite head gasket, Felpro valve seals, oil feed port work performed to remove restriction.
When the head first came off I could see valve contact marks, so those were massaged out and polished, as were the tops while it was all accessible.
Bottom end has whatever mileage it had accumulated in the Talon, and in Japan. It had the AWD trans with selectable 2wd/4wd feature and that was sold off to start to fund parts for a clutch job.
Oil pressure is good when hot and cold per my gauge, and has been run on synthetic of various weights since I have owned it.

The CAS on my setup will possibly be something I will look into, but to truly duplicate a 1989 Colt Turbo CAS, it is longer than the DSM by design, and I think new wires could be fitted with some effort if all CSM stock is gone, as it mostly is.

I saw your post about getting stranded and voila, it started back up again like nothing happened. I have my Ignitor/PTU mounted to the metal board as designed because it uses that as a minor heat dissipation element, but it is relocated to the top of the cyclone unit where they are traditionally mounted on those intakes. I had to rebuild the wiring on a couple of pins on the ignitor previously due to the "green" and using 2G or similar ignitor pins IIRC ... or MAF ... or somewhere on a donor harness that had them ... too long ago to remember, but I made it work. Likely it is time again and thus my decision to update a few parts. While being stranded, I could wiggle ECU pins and cause the car to run on two cylinders .... so those pins are getting looked at also.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:54 pm 
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Wonding if pics show up for you folks, or not?

This is my TB all rebuilt - gaskets included, and sensors confirmed for operation and ISC motor spec's out.

Not all ISC's use the same tip profile on the extension that moves. You can't upgrade to a newer ISC on this TB until someone proves what model will fit.
The one I purchased to replace what was in there, was in no way going to work and that proved out as the car's ecu tried to compensate and then the ISC would default and no longer move.
The engine would go into the infamous up and down RPM loop - phenomenon name forgotten, but was solved with the old ISC reinstalled.
Confirmed the wax pellet opens at correct temps and also confirmed depth of plunge so that FIAV passage is open and operating at correct RPM range as intended.
That is unfortunately, another part you cannot replace. You don't want to know the price of a new TB casting!


Attachments:
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:27 pm 
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Some call me a god

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Location: Toronto Canada
Can't see pics btw.

I don't trust old used parts anymore, especially for these cars. But sometimes we have no choice. If I can get the part new it's a no brainer.
You almost need an endless budget for these cars if you want reliability.
My Colt is still all 90 parts. It would be cheaper if I were looking for 91-94 parts.

Have you listed your car for sale anywhere yet?

_________________
DRCOLT
1989 3g Colt GT turbo w/4g63t
1988 2g Colt sedan turbo w/4g63t +++++


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:31 pm 
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I haven’t as of yet. If I can cure the electrical condition my mind would be open to driving it endlessly and eventually replace the alternator with a Saturn unit as described on the rtmracing site. Seems it achieves higher output of roughly 10amps for a 100amp total output. At idle not sure what amperage is specifically available, but if by wiring design it is better, then I will surely think hard about going that route.

Sadly 91-94 stuff like TB makes for greater fitment issues and having to do block off plates to prevent internal coolant leaks in those TB’s and fitment to fuel rails in stock form. So many eccentricities with our model for electrical crossover and fuel system fitments.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:32 pm 
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The pictures issue is very bizarre. I’ll see what Nate thinks.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2020 7:27 am 
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The Valve Air Bypass was not in stock in the local warehouse, stating “out of production” as the secondary reason. So, thats a 1G Recirculating (BOV) for those interested.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2020 11:41 pm 
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There is a image gallery on this website that can be used to post photos natively in the forum without any hiccups.

_________________
1989 Mirage Turbo (Daily).
'89 DODGE COLT GT TURBO.
---------------x------- X15 --------x---------------
1989 PLYMOTH COLT GT 12v - SOLD
1994 DIAMANTE - SOLD


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 7:27 am 
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I think that is where it is headed. Strange that the file upload system is not working out.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:36 pm 
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Install the new transistor and installed the Hyundai Mobis coil packs with new 90 Tacho interface module, into the bracket/mount for the Cyclone intake manifold. Swapped the wires from one coil to the other and vice versa.

Car fired up with the fully charged AGM battery in place.

Let it idle for 15-20 minutes while it let the computer figure out the idle from full cold to operating temperature. Ran if with the ac on for a bit, as it was warm enough to allow it to engage.

The idle is so stable now! Engine does not stall as it revs down during downshifts or outright stopping at lights and stop signs, so it appears the ISC is dialed in.

I drove around with no laptop or ECMtuning in front of me. It was so less stressful when you know the numbers were good last season and you decide to only look at the wideband and fuel gauge for reference,

and go by the seat of your pants for a bit.

Multiple drives with the car. Few restarts after having it running and so far so good in cold temps.

I must say that having coil packs mounted at the corner of the intake manifold like the Cyclone does, makes it so easy to access the plug wires and coil pack assembly as a whole.

The same must be said for the transistor plate location on the Cyclone also - top drivers side corner.

I did a little mod to the transistor plate. Noticed I had a painted modded plate to fit a 90 style transistor where a facelift style version is normally mounted to the Cyclone.

My plate was also not perfectly flat, not allowing a full contact on the metal base plate of the transistor to the mounting plate. I think it is probably important to have that heat sink working.

I applied computer chip heat sink paste to the transistor base, buffed the paint away from the base plate and installed them together. If it works, it couldn't hurt. My new transistor plate unfortunately is designed to fit right above the AC pulley ... opted out of putting it back down there, but who knows it could serves a purpose of getting rid of heat better near the moving belts and frame rail.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 8:09 am 
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Removed all my photos from photobucket.

Will be doing a mass dump to the photo album here.

Depending upon upload speed and time, there should be quite a bit getting pushed over to the gallery.

I was checking online to see what availability of Gvr4 rotor were available and curiosity got to me.
Seems the REAR pads on the Galant VR4, are indeed the same as the C53A turbo cars.

My Powerstop part numbers (to be installed at some point) match between the two cars.

"POWER STOP Z26329 Z26 Street Warrior; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic; Includes Hardware Info
Rear"

That FMSI number for part interchange is D329.

Also, quite a few around town trips at city and highway speeds and so far so good. Refueled a couple of times and restart was a non-issue.

I will never simulate wideband again, and will run a narrow band sensor with visual/logged information from the wideband LSU 4.2 MTX-L to the ECU.

I will post a link to the Raybestos website which has a search function for cross referencing brake part standard numbers.

https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos ... hange.html


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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2020 9:45 am 
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I have been taking to mind, discussions about changes to brake systems when going with larger capacity/piston surface area/volume at the front of the C53A platform.

Giving the Wilwoods top marks for execution of function, is so far a given. But, pressure at the front rotors could probably be higher as Jason mentioned when he did a little shake down on his car, ultimately moving his front master cylinder size to 7/8".

Technically speaking we were both trying to balance a few things and gather input on what others were using and how it affected their system output and feel.

Granted you can play with brake pad compound but for the street, that is a non issue with pads that can already do everything but laps at the track and maintain their integrity at higher temps.

So, consensus from me concerning using the following master cylinders with Wilwood Dynalite front calipers are similar calipers based upon piston surface area and corresponding fluid volume that needs to be moved and acted upon, is as follows:

Stock C53A master cylinder 7/8" - longest travel - highest pressure - no modifications needed, side and top line outputs

Stock Galant VR4 master cylinder 1" - less travel than 7/8" - lines are both connected inline and top of unit

Stock T/E/L master cylinder 1" - less travel than 7/8" - lines are both connect inline and on top of unit

Stock 1991 3000GT/Stealth turbo 3.0L V6 4 wheel ABS (MB699681, MB668757, MB845690) master cylinder 1-1/16" - shortest travel - decent modulation with braided brake hoses front and rear - exact part orientation as stock C53a master for lines and sensor wiring

Having seen the video of a car equipped with the 7/8" master installed and capable of locking the wheels at high speed, I would seriously want to drive that car for comparison sake - side by side comparison.

It is good to have higher pressure ability in the system with less effort at the pedal, but too much pressure generated too quickly can make for grabby brakes and premature lockup as an analogy can mean less than ideal modulation and surprise early lockup in less than ideal conditions - IE wet, snow, ice.


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