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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:28 am 
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Looking good Tim! Will this setup completely take the place of the oem cluster?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:21 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Dang, where is that going to be mounted?
looks to be going around the steering column.
looking good.
Yes, directly on the top half of the column plastic shroud. I placed the plastic tube sections in and around the area I wanted everything, and well, I think it will fit. It will not be in the way of the stalks, and only the boost gauge being mounted slightly high, and purposefully I might add, will this reduce visibility of my cluster. In theory you could blank out your cluster, but I think it would be foolish to have to focus this close on all these small style gauges for something like speed and or a tach. If I could have, I would have loved to have picked up the HUD unit that Defi produced up until a while back, it would have made for some cool dash mods.

I did not want to drill into my dash pad, and certain spots just didn't seem nice or were way to visible from outside the vehicle. I enjoy the stealth factory of this, and will probably make a simple cloth flip cover or something like it to cover the gauges when not in use, or you know when prying eyes may be around. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:22 pm 
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Just paid for my stuff coming from France. Can't wait for it to arrive. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:41 pm 
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Received 8x 4g63 polished + back cut intake valves, and 8x EVO 8/9 6N sodium filled exhaust valves.
Received 1x knock sensor.
EDM/EUDM dark green front bumper with headlight sprayer setup and supports shipping soon.
Dashpad (untorn)
Shifter boot (red/black leather)
Mirage grille (dark green and matches bumper) = twin to Colt grilles but with Mirage symbol at center position


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 6:15 am 
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from the looks of it, right on top the steering column?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:45 pm 
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Location: Mississauga Ont Canada
Very nice looking CSM! Surprised you found it in Mississauga of all places...

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 12:12 am 
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Well, I've bought 2 Colts from Missassauga now. 8)
Passed Emissions the other day, so once I get my clutch slave and master, I hopefully won't be dropping the transmission again.
It's unnerving just how far that pedal travels before the clutch is fully disengaged. Yay for heavy pressure plates on small pressure systems.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Gauge pod installed with gauges. EGT not installed to exhaust so it just give the wig wag of an unconnected sensor, but this gave me a view of what to expect when driving with them installed. Better pictures to follow later. Overall I am pleased with how it all turned out. 4 hours to install the wiring inside the vehicle but I was puttering around for 2 of those hours with the stuff wired into the trunk; amps, etc.

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 2:12 am 
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Sweet. Are you going to have the lights wired to a separate dimmer so you can turn down the blue when you just want the stock gauges?

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 11:11 am 
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Well, I tapped into the wire for the dimmer switch close by, but I think this means that they get power all the time and not the dimmer function.
I only tested for power on/off when the park lights and then headlights are selected, and that worked so I hooked into the wire.
My dimmer switch is pooched due an error with wiring a long time back, so I cannot test dimming with it just yet, only full bright will bring that on.
I'm curious to see what happens when I change the dimmer switch and if I'm able to vary the voltage to the bulbs in any way.
I will have to map that out on paper to see what makes best sense in this regard, but for now the gauges cannot be dimmed or turned off
during their current state; just on with the ignition feed and off when the key is twisted back past accessory, and or then removed.

Just noticed you mentioned a separate dimmer switch, and that would be a good idea. :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Your gauge setup looks great and you can definitely tell that you put in some time. You mentioned the Defi HUD unit... are those Defi gauges?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:12 am 
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Quote:
It's unnerving just how far that pedal travels before the clutch is fully disengaged. Yay for heavy pressure plates on small pressure systems.
Just a suggestion that DSMers use when encountering this problem. Try putting a lock washer behind the pivot ball. This supposedly brings it out just enough so you don't need an extended rod for the slave cylinder. I just put one on my 90 trans, and will let you know how it feels.

PS- Great job with the gauges!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

@ Jeremy Rothrock - the pivot ball was shimmed already and I kept it in this trans when I moved the car last summer. All things were working properly and engagement was perfect or close enough to be considered good at the time. Now the extra pressure has sent it too far forward or rather, just off the floor pan with no carpetting. Sigh, will know more soon and will post that up.

Fuel pressure regulator just arrived today. We will soon see how this works.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:15 pm 
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Quote:
Your gauge setup looks great and you can definitely tell that you put in some time. You mentioned the Defi HUD unit... are those Defi gauges?
These are Defi Racer gauges, requiring wires for 12V switched, 12V constant, ground, and illumination for each gauge; but do not forget about each set of electrical wires that follow in from each sensor sending unit. Had to grind out a suitable hole though 2 layers of firewall metal and plug it with a body plug holed in the center for pass-thru of the looms. That was music to my ears while the rotary bit was hitting stall speed and notes I hate to hear when metal is gauling.
Defi has better gauges that use a single wire for power and all the communication to each unit, but they also require a main control box. Hud was use the control box as well, and require some sort of speed sensor tapping.

Issue:
Gauges like boost are sometimes hovering in a weird range other than the 10-15 inches my engine showed with the old Autogage Carbon fibre 30-0-30 unit. I was sitting in boost before it settled down later, and this was at idle. Other gauges like the Volt meter were in the wrong range for what my logger used to show at the ECU - too sensitive?
I have all the switched power wires bundled, constant power wires bundled, and ground and illumination bundled all into respective single connectors to run to each feed appropriately, and was wondering if this would have any effect on the performance issues I'm having. At least the coolant temp is spot on, and I have yet to test EGT until I get a bung for the exhaust.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 1:09 pm 
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The best way to diagnose the error you are seeing would be to characterize each sensor throughout the expected range of use and compare the voltage/current ouptut (dependent on each sensor) with a known trusted gauge. Easier said than done right? The quick and dirty would be to connect both your previous gauges and the new gauges concurrently and note the differential between them, this of course assumes that you trust the old gauges to give you an accurate baseline.

As long as the differentials you see are linear adding the correct resistance inline will give you the appropriate values. If the delta is non-linear then the fix will be more involved.

I know it may be too late in the game for you but something like the DASH2 from Race-Technology probably isn't far off pricewise from the cluster you've put together and it incorporates the speedo, tach, and odometer (which of course would require you to notify your DMV). It's what I will be using in my build. Here is the info: http://www.race-technology.com/description_8_1000.html

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