4g61t.org

Those turned out awesome Tim! That would have been my color choice too if I owned anything but a white csm. I had to do the color matched wheels to keep the 80's-90's theme going.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Thank Chris!
Over a year of dealing with those rims meant I was spending money to make them go away. Haha.
After hearing that CT had OEM style lug nuts at $9 CDN each, and they would come to $160ish CDN, I laughed told the guy that was more than I paid for the rims before the overpriced paints on his stores shelves were even factored in. I kinda left that last part out, but mentioned the paints worked well.
Wink wink.
$55.72 US errr $75ish CDN, and that will be with shipping and duty included, no extra fees. Cheapest option was to point and click. Lug nuts ahoy!!!!!

Wow! Those look awesome. Definitely look good for stock wheels!

Looking good!!

Anyone who has pointers for 1G Link V3 let me know.

Here is what is currently installed:

90 DSM Eprom ECU
780cc PTE injectors
609 2G MAF
Buschur bolt-on FPR will confirm setting to 36-38 PSI disconnected, 27 psi connected
Cyclone Dual Runner manifold
02 narrowband in stock 02 housing location
MTX-L wideband in bung just below flange on downpipe

16G EVO3 stock wastegate ? 12 psi ?
Lower Shores MBC <- can be opted out if too finicky to fart around with for tuning

Cyclone using EGR solenoid grounded via pin 53.
FPR using FPR solenoid grounded via pin 57.
Purge solenoid grounded via pin 62.

I am retaining stock emissions, minus EGR.
AC is installed and needs to function when the second fan comes in., or highway use only.

Not worried about 2 step, anti-lag, NLTS or any of that right now. Just driving and full boost with minimum 91 octane, more likely 94.
Clutch switch is currently disconnected for less chance of oiling issues and wear.


What things are going to need setting up once idle is established?

I may be getting help with this soon, but I would like to have a roadmap of this process.

I'm on the ECMLink forums, but so are you guys. Insert tongue wag here.

I'm going to write this all down and use it to do some of this myself, and later with help for the fine tuning.


Ninja Edit ### Also looking at tire paint options ... hmmmmm

Got link V3 up and running with the help of Broke4speed.

I forgot to notice the fans weren't coming on. Rad cap opened up ....

Just rebuilt the cooling fan circuit (possible lazy fan when commanded on), and pressurized the system again.

Found air leaks all around the base of the rad where the fingers sandwich the end tank to the main alum body. FACAKACKACKACAKCAKCAKC.

Radiators are not meant to do this.

Thinking about using my brand new, quality rad, which will require a sleeve to make the upper hose work or I will toss in the old, newly repaired stock turbo rad.

Either way the car has been off the road since the salt was cleared and washed away.

Went for an offroad bike ride with my new full suspension bike ... and fell over and rolled down a hill with the bike on me. Good times!

Car 1 Bike 1 Tim 0

That is all.

Very nice.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Pulled off the ole faithful fatties.



Terribly lighting but these look sick. The dark wheels with silver paint = melting inside. Black lug nuts found on Ebay for flat washer style rims.







The pe-motorwerks company store on Ebay has just what you need.

Ebay link to what I bought

Oddly enough I purchased a set of 24 and they sent 5 packs of 5 lugs nuts. I now have 25 which leaves 9 spares!

They also ship to Canada with duty/shipping included in the Ebay international shipping program. Huge plus! Just click buy and have them delivered to your door. No surprises.

I did notice that the nuts would slightly wobble as they went onto what I can only say are extremely straight studs. So, they may have been drilled sligthly funky or they get slightly muntered when they press the knurls into the sides to retain the washer, but the paint looks great.

I now have to motivate to paint the ceenter caps ....... lower on the list than the radiator. You bet.

Painted my cowl cover and wiper arms/assemblies with the same paint. They look so nice now.

Small victories .... just watch out how much original paint is still left after using a rust converter and then sanding years later. I had some slight peel at the thinned out edges of remaining paint that had been blended.

Nothing major, but you would notice if up really close. Luckily it sits really low.

Blew the bodywork money on the bicycle, so I'll try and keep the fenders alive for another season before I can source a final idea for what will happen. Too hard to do flares? Too iffy on finding solid rear fenders and having them shipped? I gotta gut the rear to anything at this point.

Settled on removing all the vintage stereo equipment that was in the trunk and wiring that was under the deck board laying where the original particle board would have been. This required removal of the battery box and threaded rod that went down through the frame rails. Figuring out the best option to put it back in and make the spare tire accessible. It's been MIA for years now .... because I couldn't pull that board due to stereo equipment and battery box clamping action. Such a relief to remove all that jive and start fresh. Muffler will be my only tunes for a while ......

Added a second patch to my stock turbo rad.

Top tank was leaking very near the upper portion of the right/upper most fan shroud mount.
This is very near where the crack propogated to, but I thought would have sealed, except for the shrink as the epoxy stuff was heated and dried. Go figure that is where air was escaping when I pressure tested it with the hoses attached to the motor.
Purchased some plastic JB weld stick stuff (on sale at the local CT), and kneaded the two part roll, into a light blue glob and started to apply it to the cleaned and grooved/bastard file prepped plastic.. It's curing as I write this, and looks rather ... interesting. If this doesn't work, I have another iron in the fire, but let me see what happens here first.

Here is a lead on another quality Koyo rad option for GVR4's (confirmed fitment as we now know).
RedlineMotive.Com Searched 1991 GVR4. Metal tank, 2 row, Voila! Unfortunately they do not list a C53A rad option.

A New Zealand radiator option (the one shown is Lancer/Mirage specific based upon top hose fitting location and overflow spout angle on the rad cap neck.
click for Trevor Morris Radiators website listing. Have to make sure you are getting a two row core, so beware of that fact.

Evo 1-3 looks suspiciously similar, maybe the core is shorter, but could be shimmed; says it is a 2 row version versus the single.
Evo 1-3 Rad from NZ

Giving thought to finding out about some hints that I picked up concerning strut tube diameters being increased for the AUS and or NZ car market, versus the USDM market. If the diameter of the chromed strut tubes is indeed increased, then they did indeed get better suspension; while disregarding the electronic versions. Hmmmm .... gleaned this info from the Lancer Project IIRC. Putting to paper what was stuck in the back of my mind.

Tim, why not an Scirocco rad ?
This the best way in my head

Does a Scirocco rad require removing the AC condenser assembly?

I have fully operational AC, but no AC fan.

Been mudling over what aftermarket fans to use as a pusher on the condenser. Ideally a pair of pushers, just not sure how much current they will draw and if that will suck all the alternator output down into low volt land. That leads me to want to try the GM alternator upgrade but I'm not so sure about how high an RPM they can handle long term. I don't push it, but I've never seen a high revving low buck Saturn model before.... just saying.

I have to fit the fans in between the intercooler and even that I want to move inboard somewhat. My custom bent wonder-brackets would have to yet again get reworked or tossed. So, there my car sits with a patched radiator (factory turbo back in), stock turbo fan that grenaded a few weeks ago after being meticulously rebuilt (plastic came apart from the center metal portion likely due to contact from the upper intercooler hard pipe being too close), and an alternator output (likely low because the fan was acting up or overheating) that dwindled down low right about the same time.

SO freaking frustrated that with thousands of dollars worth of parts and BS, my car is worse off that when I first started to have it leaking coolant, and still on the 14b.

I've been riding the mountain bike because it calms me down. Everytime something has to be changed, and I mean everytime, I loose damn near a half day or worse having to be careful because parts are buried or I suspect multiple issues. I now have the the trans mounts (with inserts) and front roll mount (with inserts) removed to confirm no bent mount brackets or engine/drivetrain misalignment causing the pull to the left that I was experiencing with the 14" tires and rims. I have new wheels with 3 kms of driving on them and so far they didn't seem to be pulling but I can't afford to have another set start pulling. This had been the top nagging issue since I got the car back together in 2009/2010. Maybe boost and torque steer caused them to go funny. The tires were 10 years old.

Final vent. Driver side rear wheel well is ~1" lower than the passenger side rear. Just rebuilt those struts ... re-used the BG lowering springs.

14, 12, and 10" fans arrived.

These are Ebay items from SkipWhite ... WhitePerformance.

Hoping this works out.

Pics of fans fresh out of the boxes.



Working on suitable fan relays and wiring. The ebay ad just got revised and they post an 18amp fan current for the 14" model .... the #3 fuseible link eluded to in the 7-8 cooling system diagram shows power being fed to BOTH radiator and condenser fans and a few more relays/AC ECU. #3 is a 30A fuse in the 1.5L cars, 40A fuse in the 1.6L (NA and TC) cars. This is too much current to run through that fuse now, so I want to tap into the "turn" on feeds and supply current and use a circuit breaker to keep the fans appropriately powered, and to keep the relays happy, maybe something a little better than standard duty stuff. We shall see how this pans out.