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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:34 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
I supposed if the full swing is seen and it still sees 0/100%, it shouldn't matter. Just one of those values that stuck in my head over the years and was staring me in the face.

Updated the first post in this built thread, to reflect more part numbers, updates, tweaks, things I had forgotten to add, etc etc.
Hood is now R52 red and may get the nod for a plastidip rising sun motif. A thougt for another day, but the hood came with the shell I stripped and must remain installed due to the radiator no being able to sit lower (north south bar fitment) and rad cap sitting in where I excised the support structure on the underside of the hood. For now the hood is polished and looking good minus some old fluid stain damage that runs DEEP. My rags were red, very "red" when I finished my hand held cut and polish routine back in august.

Yesterday, I washed the car in the driveway. Rims holding up well, wheel torque stayed at 80 ft/lbs on all but the LF wheel. Slight movement on the flat washer style lugs as I passed over them. This is why paint build up in certain areas, should be prevented/avoided or dealt with shortly after painting occurs with high solid count/build paint. I anticipated this partly because of paint and the lug nuts that I had to tap. Yes, every single lug nut was rusty/no really tapped deep enough to fit my longer studs (even taking into account the spacers/rim lug seat depth), and nearly rounded off a bunch of stud threads at the front hubs. I saved everything, but the aftermarket black flat washer lugs should have gotten more attention from me as I critiqued them just after purchase. No harm done, but for the cost, I can't complain and they are staying "black" until the sun fades them or sockets inevitably cause some flaking of the coating. For now, they should do well, and I love the look of black lugs. Pics to follow now that the car is clean and "together" in final road going mode. I have nearly 800 km's on the car, with all the new parts installed. Re-tightened the serpentine/V-Belts as I was getting some chirping when the car was falling back down below idle speed/hiccupping like these idle speed circuits like to induce with cold motors.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 2:55 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Wow, been a while since I updated the build. Drove the car until the snow hit the ground. Takes the while for the trans to get up to temp and the trans case and bearings to loosen/oil come to temp type of thing. Once things are warmed up, shifting is pretty good, but I would seriously wish for a ligther pressure plate on my clutch setup. I say this for high RPM shifting, it would be beneficial, or for track days where you are not just 1/4 miling the car.

Anywho, wheel selection time again.

Stock turbo rims and steel rims are sized as follows:

4x114.3mm
14 inch
5.5 JJ
Offset +46mm

Wheel size of the Galant/Summit "Wagon Wheel" (8 spoke style) rims I use now:

4x114.3mm
15 inch
6.0 JJ
Offset + <- checking on this when I have time to read the inside of the spokes/rim hub face depression areas.

Have a set of these:

Fast Wheels F50 - 77083
17 inch
7.0
Offset +40
CB 73mm
Dual bolt pattern 4x114.3mm and 4x100mm

Have a post in on the CSM Performance FB group concerning pictures of CSM's with 17" rims and tire sizes they are running plus how they ride.
I'm on KSport coilovers, so they can take a slighly heavier rim/tire combo, but like when I researched the 15" wheels listed above and tire weighting, I may go with a 16" combination.
I'd ideally flip the 17" rims to fund the 16" setup, should that come about.
I'm not opposed to driving to Ogdensburg NY, to ship these in the US via UPS.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:34 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Update. As the car sits.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:10 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2001 7:00 pm
Posts: 1188
Location: Toronto Canada
where are the pics? i am not allowed?

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1989 3g Colt GT turbo w/4g63t
1988 2g Colt sedan turbo w/4g63t +++++


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:03 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Hmm, we had this issue brought up by Horci. It was for the Vin Registry.
I got you same error when viewing as a guest but I can see it when logged in.
The issue was broken link or missing file for the picture attachments. Let me know via PM if that changes anything. Picture is still live as of now. This weekend I can probably take some pic of Scrat with the 17's on board. They are so tall, they look good but the car was elevated even more than stock ride height which I think I duplicated with the coilovers and 15's in near stock rolling diameter 205/50's.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
Posts: 520
Location: Astoria OR
Yeah eagle, pics aren't working. What hosting site are you using?

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Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
Keane


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 11:23 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
We are having issues with the internal file/picture hosting. The picture was hosted here as a file attachment.
I'll see about adding a pair of photos to an offsite spot to show last years set of wheels and tires and this years taller tire setup.


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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 7:45 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Great read for people considering differential choices on their FWD cars:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/f ... arned.html

All the same principles apply here, regardless of what car is using an identical part. Even better to see how electronic brake control is used and how it correlates to using an ATB diff or not!

I started a new thread for discussion on it, here:

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41034


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 11:35 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Since 2005, this car has now traveled a little under 25,000 km's while under various stages of JSB'ing, rebuild/restoration and road-worthy statuses.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:25 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Update August 2017:

Clutch master wore out. Installed OEM rebuild kit but scoring in the bores leads me to believe I should be buying a new master outright.

Big box of parts from AE has arrived courtesy of the shipping department at PartSouq.com.
More parts scheduled to ship out when Amayama.com receives a few more parts they are waiting on.

I have a complete set of urethane front control arm bushings and rear panhard rod bushings to look at installation for this winter. The control arm bushings will go in a set of cleaned and grease free control arms that shipped in from California.

Received a vintage DSG shift knob that was a "thing" with the Galant VR4 guys. Now my C53A can be part of the E39A wannabe club. The knob is white Delrin and quote smooth. Should be cooler to the touch in the sun, but the AC still works well so that takes the extreme heat when I kick it in after running the engine for a while.

Using the wideband as a primary sensor and having simulated narrowband has a weird effect on the startup procedure I have to go through with LinkV3. Maybe it will hangs once I go back to dedicated narrowband signal and wideband secondary for logging and visual output.
Here is my scenario:

If I start the car, I have link set to a standard 15 seconds of "disregard the 02 sensor output", and it runs strictly off the maps. This gives me enough time to rev up the engine and get the car out of the garage before the wideband actually gives an output on the screen. If I drive away before the output comes up, my idle will be "learned" their on way, meaning it will be wonky. If I wait for the wideband to read (remember it has simulated narrowband output with Link), I have okay idle characteristics (which still could use tweaking). It is a bizarre phenomenon that I would like to solve. Ever stall in traffic an think about having to wait 30 seconds while idling to he a perfect idle at the next set of lights ... This is the point that gets me wanting to fix the whole setup.

I have been putting in lots of fuel, holding off on adding timing and playing with any setting this season. I just want to drive the car, the rest comes later. The bicycles were calling and life feels better when there isn't a car taking up space in your subconscious.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:47 pm
Posts: 7
Nice list you got there. May I know what cat you're using? Does it work well with the Magnaflow muffler?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:20 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Catalytic is a CarSound Generic 2.5, and I hesitate to say high flow model. It is meant as a regular catalytic converter replacement, so not a racing model. We will see how it puffs for Etest in the spring.


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