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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:55 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Location: ALLENTOWN, PA
Its an all aluminum radiator on ebay i'm thinking about purchasing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Gala ... 84&vxp=mtr
My current setup is a stock galant radiator with two pusher fans. Most of the time, i don't have any problems with cooling. However, on 90*+ days, my temps will push 220* which is a bit hot for my liking. So, after reading the countless radiator threads and lots of searching, i found the radiator in the link and wanted to know if anyone else here has used one or know someone who has. The seller has multiple aluminum radiators for other vehicles, so chances are someone has had or seen one. Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:13 pm 
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that is only a 2 row.. if u are worried about overheating with the stock rad then you need to look for a 3 core rad..




Steve

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 8:01 am 
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I don't know that radiator specifically, but I wouldn't run an all aluminum tank set up on anything daily driven. I've seen two Koyo radiators crack at the flus personally. I went to a parts store replacement from a Vr4 for my mirage. It's been good for over 1.5 years, where my Koyo lasted 6 months.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:25 am 
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Quote:
I don't know that radiator specifically, but I wouldn't run an all aluminum tank set up on anything daily driven. I've seen two Koyo radiators crack at the flus personally. I went to a parts store replacement from a Vr4 for my mirage. It's been good for over 1.5 years, where my Koyo lasted 6 months.
I've had a Fluidyne aluminum radiator in my Eclipse since I've owned it, in 2006. It was used when I got it. It's still going strong. With that said, I do have cooling issues on really hot days, but that could be a number of problems. I'd recommend a 3-row though.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:15 pm 
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I'd recommend a OEM type replacement like nate pointed out. Especially if you plan on daily driving the car. I have an old GGSX rad in my Sedan, with no cooling issues. It doesn't get hot where I live though but it does get cold which is just as hard on cooling systems, IMO.

I've also ran an Audi 100 rad which worked well. It was aluminum but had plastic end tanks. This worked well too, but developed a leak - I think this was cause by it not mounting like the OEM rads do.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:03 pm 
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Quote:
that is only a 2 row.. if u are worried about overheating with the stock rad then you need to look for a 3 core rad..




Steve
The radiator i have now is only a 1 row aluminum. The ad states it a 2 row with a thickness of 50mm, which is a lot thicker than the one I have now.
Quote:
I'd recommend a OEM type replacement like nate pointed out. Especially if you plan on daily driving the car. I have an old GGSX rad in my Sedan, with no cooling issues. It doesn't get hot where I live though but it does get cold which is just as hard on cooling systems, IMO.

I've also ran an Audi 100 rad which worked well. It was aluminum but had plastic end tanks. This worked well too, but developed a leak - I think this was cause by it not mounting like the OEM rads do.
The car is not daily driven, but i want to be able to sit in traffic on a hot day without worrying about my engine temps. I've tried a dsm radiator and was never able to burp the system correctly. I'm aware of the scirocco rad, but its a bit more expensive.

If no one else chimes in before the end of the week, I think i'm gonna pull the trigger. I don't mind being a guinea pig for the betterment of this forum. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:42 pm 
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A plain old "honda" radiator off ebay will work if you don't mind the mounting differences.

Anecdote time.

During winter I didn't run the fan on my Colt, I just pulled the relay (wired for always on). During the last weeks of winter, about March since I live in Wisconsin, my brother and I made a run out of town and on the way back we went to Mcd's for some nuggets. It had been getting warm out but being lazy I never put the relay back in, that day we must have hit a heat wave because it was in the 70's. We ended up sitting in line for 20 minutes, idling away, with no fan and no airflow going through the radiator. We were about halfway through when it finally broke the 200* mark (160 stat) and by the time we got our food and drove away temps were near 250*. We hit the highway to head home, launching at the light and WOT up to about 100 and the temps instantly dropped to under 200. Then about a week later I finally put the relay back in. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:57 pm 
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^^ :o Holy Sh*t! Maybe its just me, but i would've shut the car down if it got that hot. Any idea, at what temperature, a head will start to warp on the block?

Back on topic, I ordered the radiator in the ebay ad. Should be here in 3-4 days. Keep posted for my thoughts and reviews on it!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 2:59 pm 
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250 would be no problem if he was running Evans waterless coolant but on a standard mix, 250* would probably boil over at the very least.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 7:06 pm 
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Standard 50/50 mix, I think I had some water wetter in there too.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:14 am 
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Location: tucson,az
Dude your stick galant radiator would have worked fine, on my colt when I had it we ran one with one pusher and one puller, i had spal fans on it so they did move alot of air when on. And the key to there sucess was that we made ducting from frnt mount to ac condenser to radiator, so the air was forced into the rad and couldnt go around. Worked good in arizona summers. The ducting was madd with that 3M aluminum tape btw.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 6:30 pm 
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I put in an ebay Honda half size I think 3 row and have a 12" puller with homemade shroud. I put in 1 1/2 bottles of the water wetter stuff and a probably more like a 60/40 anti/water mix. This last summer in the twin cities I was driving around with outside temps at 102 and above and in stop and go. I was really worried and kept a good eye on temps and coolant temp never got above 216. Intake temps were getting hot in the stop and go, I think I saw upwards of 160. Once moving things cooled off a bit, intake went down to around 114 and coolant kinda stayed around 208 until I hit a bit of rain (185). That was doing 75 down the freeway, with no cold air intake. Gonna change that this year. That sold me, before with stock rad I couldn't even do 65 without temps starting to climb on a 85F day. Oh and with the cold frigid temps we have had here in Duluth (-26F) and that's not including wind chill! I have been out checking the hoses and fluid and no freezing! So with a little more water in the system I think it could do better. I can email you pics of setup if you like, let me know!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:02 pm 
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^^ Thanks for the offer, but i'm already balls deep into this.

So, a little update. I made the purchase and waited about a week for delivery. Not bad for an ebay company! It came well packaged and only few of the fins were slightly tweaked. They even sprayed the company logo on it.... :rolleyes:
I'm fairly impressed with the quality of it. I gave it a good inspection and couldn't find any major flaws. It is, as advertised, a two row radiator, with a core thickness of 2". It also came with the rad cap and a plug for the temp sensor bung.
I plan on doing a leak test in the near future, as well as fitment. I will post the results as soon as they are completed. If anyone has any questions on the radiator, feel free to ask, and i will try to accomodate.
Now, on to the pics:
Image
Image
Image
Image

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