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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:48 am 
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Restricted Newbie

Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:18 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Atlanta,GA
Ok to start this is my second CSM in 20 years. I was a big DSMer. Had a few over the years with basic mods. Now i have a Mirage with all the parts i could dream of but its been ruff for her in transition. Im willing to put my all to big her back with your help...sorry for dragging. So i have a few pics with missing vac lines and such, figure i start there first.
Hopefully this link works
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... UZKT01mTm8

Currently the car doesnt turn on. It cranked fine when i went to buy it but its short on something. I noticed all the vac lines hacked so figure start there first.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:08 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
If it doesn't crank, you have a starting issue. Check for power at the starter, and power at the solenoid while cranking. Get it started before worrying about vacuum lines.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 11:03 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9413
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Like mecha said. Plug those two top lines together and forget about that until your get a proper starter signal (at the solenoid). Check the single small plug at the starter solenoid with a test light to ground.
Also check battery terminals and the wires for resistance, and connection at the large copper type stud terminal on the starter. There should be a large ground wire at one of the two starter bolts, that should run back to the frame rail near the original battery box location. That bolt to the frame needs to be clean and so do the bolt threads and wire connection at the terminal crimp!

Let us know how it goes. IF you are missing large grounds and or the firewall to intake manifold ground wire, the path back to ground gets weird and can cause intermittent or consistent no start when the key is put into crank. The wire at the firewall comes forward to one of the bolts that holds the throttle cable bracket or a single hole on the back of the intake as I notice you have a cyclone marked intake.

Also, make sure the intake has a direct path to the FPR Fuel pressure regulator nipple. You can leave the Cyclone canister unplugged for now if needed or plug it off with a hose/bolt.

Search my build thread in builds and you will find JDM diagrams for Cyclones, I am sure of it.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 11:09 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9413
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
I see RTV on the copper crush gasket that seals the power steering top mount hose! Time to order some new crush washers as the PO likely did not while removing it.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 1:00 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 667
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Also, plug that small hose off the FPR into the T that is missing a connection off the manifold and cyclone actuator.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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