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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:44 am
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Hey everyone

I am planning to replace my drive axle seals next weekend and would like some input on what manual transmission fluid to use. I have an 89 mirage turbo.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:47 am 
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I also need to know how much I need


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:58 am 
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As well as what size crush washers I need


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:00 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
GL-4 differential fluid, not any combination of GL4/GL5, only a GL-4 rated fluid.

Factory manuals are located at www.Lilevo.com/mirage/, looking up the 89 Colt/Mirage turbo manual will give specs for the 4g15 and 4g61t transmission fluid specs and quantities.

Most members running DSM and CSM transmission run Redline MT90 for engines putting out higher torque outputs, but otherwise a non synthetic fluid is fine, but again GL-4 rated (redline makes MT90 in a GL-4 specific blend). Synthetic fluid is always better, and only costs a few dollars more. Cheap fluids or the wrong mixtures can contain paraffin wax or somesuch additive that guns up the little fluid passageways and can therefore wreak havoc on a transmission. Mitsu dealers locally sell Diaqueen fluid but they bring it in by the 5 gallon pail or slightly smaller quantities, so unless you have a graduated cylinder/jug to measure with, I was out of luck in my case. Maybe US dealers fair better in that regard.

If you hop onto www.Partsouq.com, and build your car, you can likely go into the transmission section and find the drain and full plugs blowup diagram and select those parts. Some parts like screws and washers can be listed with dimensions. If not, call your local Napa or Oreillys, or Kragen or whichever and ask what sizes of copper/aluminum crush washers do they have in stock. They cannot have the little rubber Inserts I see on cheap drain plug gaskets and they cannot be plastic!

Make sure they M12 through M22 in stock and you can always return what you don't use. I can't recall exactly the sizes in question for the two different bolts you are workin with.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:45 am
Posts: 505
Location: tampa
I have been building transmissions for over 30 years. 4g63 for last 15. have used many fluids. have long term results for some. I have used GL-5 oil as well as others. I used GL5 Liqui-moly available at napa. It used to cost 11 a quart. now its like 17.50. I used it for 5 years in my evo 1 trans. 450tq at the wheels. when 4th let go I was flabbergasted to see the gears looked like chrome. NOTHING works better for protecting gears than a GL5 fluid. the drawback is it wont shift well when fluid is cold. The realism that no one seems to get is there is no majic oil that is slippery but allows syncros to work well. So you can use a GL4 oil and the syncros will work much better. But it in no way offers the gear protection of a GL5 oil. GL5 oil has slippery additives that allow HYPOID gears to live. hypoid gear are gears that are angled in such a way that the gears faces slide over each other rather than roll over one another. I am currently using Motul 300 gear (not LS) it is cheaper. shifts really good cold. no long term results yet, but hopeful.

two worst oils tried. royal purple, and GM syncromesh. stay away. far away. also do not use any of the redline shockproof oils. while those oils have prolly the best protection for gears. the solids quickly centerfuge out and clog oil passage ways. its good stuff for tcases and rear ends only.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:44 am
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Thank you guys for your input.
Now all I need to do is find some sort of work instructions for changing the drive shaft seals. I haven't messed with a transmission in about 8-10 years so I don't recall what it will entail.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:56 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Ummm ....

Image

or

Image

or

Screws into the seal and a slide hammer .... Image

Purchase a seal installer kit, with multiple diameter discs to help push the new seal into place. Sometimes using the old seal (should it come out flat and round) can help save distortion on the new one. Barring that, remove transmission, disassembly and press in the new seal ... installation is reverse of removal. I thought not.

Image


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