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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:46 am 
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Would there be any problems when installing a 4G67 6 Bolt Originally Automatic engine to a Manual transmission vehicle??

Would the ECU know something is up or does it not talk to the transmission anyways?

I'll be using the 4G15 transmision and as far as I know all I need is the 4G67/63 Flywheel, Clutch, and modified started plate to get it mounted and working mechanically. I'll also be using the original 4G67 Harness and ECU.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 11:02 am 
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There will be a TCU (trans control unit) that likely just plug and play into the vehicle but you also need a park neutral switch setup and the entire shifter assembly at the floor and the ignition column is different between the shifter on the floor as it adds interlock features for not being able to remove the key unless the shifter is in park. The neutral safety switch prevents engine starter operation/engine starting, if you are not in neutral or park. Not sure many people have played with installing a 4g67 setup, but most seem to be working around using just about any Mitsu engine of this era/wiring, and mating to automatics or 4-5 speed standards transmissions. Can't say I can directly help in that regard.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:09 pm 
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I'm attaching a former automatic engine to a manual transmission.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:44 pm 
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Oops, got it backwards eh?

I'll post what would happen if someone would want to install a manual setup into an auto car, then comment on your swap directly.

Punch out pre/stamped area on firewall for clutch master
Install entire pedal assembly from a manual car
Your choice if you want to use clutch switch and wiring (also clutch cruise cut switch if running cruise control)
Hydraulic line to slave
Shifter cables, pair to match trans of choice
Flywheel, clutch, crank bolts,
At least one axle (long axle to left front) is different length if reusing and swapping auto to manual
Reverse switch wiring near battery need to be hooked in/up
Rebuild transaxle with better/new syncros (non fibrous)
Add a Quaife AWD LSD like I did (likely cost half as much as a new transmission

That is most of it, if you stay front wheel drive. F5M33 91-92 FWD DSM/Eclipse 25 spline differential to match the axles and seal combinations

KM210 that came with 4g61t and 4g64 SOHC Sonata's, were fine but rated at a lower torque capacity. I speak of preference to mating a 4g63t to a FWD transaxle, but lower power output would be just fine with those.

You can install a 225 DSM flywheel like I did inside a KM210 and F5M33 bellhousing, allowing the use of stronger and more plentiful clutch and flywheel combinations. The difference being a stock 215mm flywheel non stepped setup on the KM210.

Some non turbo 4G61's came with a KM206, but it probably had a center differential and gears much like the KM201 assigned to the 4g1X motors.

Any ECU that matches your engine size will run an auto or standard trans setup, but aim for a standard shift ECU should you go this route.

Okay, so if the car is already setup with a complete and original standard shift assembly and wiring, then nothing about the motor will be different. It is all in the wiring, ECU and axles to be different but the motor is clear. Keep your starter plate and reuse the starter, do not source a starter not a starter plate from an automatic, they are both different and wrong for your application.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:45 pm 
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Quote:
Oops, got it backwards eh?

I'll post what would happen if someone would want to install a manual setup into an auto car, then comment on your swap directly.

Punch out pre/stamped area on firewall for clutch master
Install entire pedal assembly from a manual car
Your choice if you want to use clutch switch and wiring (also clutch cruise cut switch if running cruise control)
Hydraulic line to slave
Shifter cables, pair to match trans of choice
Flywheel, clutch, crank bolts,
At least one axle (long axle to left front) is different length if reusing and swapping auto to manual
Reverse switch wiring near battery need to be hooked in/up
Rebuild transaxle with better/new syncros (non fibrous)
Add a Quaife AWD LSD like I did (likely cost half as much as a new transmission

That is most of it, if you stay front wheel drive. F5M33 91-92 FWD DSM/Eclipse 25 spline differential to match the axles and seal combinations

KM210 that came with 4g61t and 4g64 SOHC Sonata's, were fine but rated at a lower torque capacity. I speak of preference to mating a 4g63t to a FWD transaxle, but lower power output would be just fine with those.

You can install a 225 DSM flywheel like I did inside a KM210 and F5M33 bellhousing, allowing the use of stronger and more plentiful clutch and flywheel combinations. The difference being a stock 215mm flywheel non stepped setup on the KM210.

Some non turbo 4G61's came with a KM206, but it probably had a center differential and gears much like the KM201 assigned to the 4g1X motors.

Any ECU that matches your engine size will run an auto or standard trans setup, but aim for a standard shift ECU should you go this route.

Okay, so if the car is already setup with a complete and original standard shift assembly and wiring, then nothing about the motor will be different. It is all in the wiring, ECU and axles to be different but the motor is clear. Keep your starter plate and reuse the starter, do not source a starter not a starter plate from an automatic, they are both different and wrong for your application.
Still think we are getting confused..

The 4G67 is came from an Automatic Eterna and still has it's transmission mounted, and I want to install just the engine into the C62A with the original transmission that was mounted to my 4G15.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:37 am 
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That should work as some have used the 4g15 trans with the 4g6x 1G 6 bolt style motors with that combo.

I'll let the other guys back me up, because I never tried that route.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:35 am 
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Okay! So I purchased the entire front cut of the Galant Eterna 4G67 minus the body. I also have a 4G63 6-Bolt Flywheel.

Which clutch kit do I need? Do I need one for the 4G15 or 4G63/67?

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exe ... 26495.aspx 4G15
https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exe ... 25775.aspx 4G63/67


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 11:51 am 
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I'm surprised so many engines are covered with one size flywheel/clutch disc/pressure plate style!

You have to use the 200m setup with a 4g15 flywheel because I believe the flywheel for a 4g6x motor will hit the bellhousing. The input splines may be identical, but I cannot confirm that at the moment. The catalogue will confirm that if you build a different vehicle with the larger style trans/bellhousing. According to the charts on your 4g6x link, that clutch setup should work.

1G AWD 4g63 turbo clutch discs/pressure plate surfaces are a smaller diameter than FWD 4g63 turbo clutch discs/pressure plates, should you ever get to that point. 215 versus 225mm.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 7:13 am 
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Apparently the flywheel I got cleared the transmission bell housing? My mechanic mounted everything with no problems?

We had to modify the Galant Left Engine Support to move it forward to match the body, and drill a new hole on the rear roll support bracket.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:53 am 
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If you post a part number it could help other trying this type of swap. With regards to the clutch/flywheel you are now using in the stock 4g15 bellhousing. It was the oddball bellhousing transmission with no model type stamped on the top flat surface of the bell housing correct?


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