4g61t.org

I looked over a few threads but didn't find the exact answer to my question. I need to swap both of the stock Colt shifter arms at the transmission and that is understandable. The one arm simply bolts to the transmission is a straight forward swap. I believe that arm handles the side to side movement.

The other arm, that I believe handles the forward and back movement is the one I have a question about. Are you guys cutting the spot welds and rewelding to the F5M33 or is that an actual dowel pin I see holding the arm to the shaft? I have a set of stock Colt shifter arms that were already removed, and the one that is not bolt-on was simply cut off the previous transmission. I put the shifter arm in a vice tonight and beat on the dowel pin a bit but no luck. I'll try heating it tomorrow and taking a closer look, but some info/pointers from those whom have completed this swap would be much appreciated. I was attempting to punch out the dowel pin toward the firewall if it were installed in the vehicle. Perhaps I have my orientation incorrect and the dowel can only go in one way.

You can measure in about and inch (use the cables to line it up) and drill a hole and place a bolt there pointing towards the cround. That will be where you mount the cable and hold it in place with another nut or a washer and cotter-pin if you drill a hole in the bolt. Works great.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

I was contemplating that based on positioning the two different arms on top of each other. I think the shifter cable would need to bolt to the underside of the F5M33 shifter arm because it sits lower on the Colt shifter arm compared to the F5M33 shifter arm.

That said, I see pictures of several trans with the Colt arm swapped over to the F5M33. Was this cut and welded in place or is there actually a cotter pin in the small hole I see on the side of the shaft? Let me see if I can dig up a few pics. I saw FlyingEagle's build post that shows the Colt arm swapped over to his F5M33. I would prefer to do a clean swap over versus drilled a hole.

Prepare an air hammer with a skinny center punch style bit. Wear protective gear (eyes and ears), and hope to gosh you don't crack the casing while you pound the bugger of a self grooving center pin out of place.

I think I listed the direction the pin comes out, because the hole is tapered and it will not come out the other way. Pretty sure if comes out in the direction of the firewall, but check out my trans build thread as I believe I listed it there. Make doubly sure you have the correct arm ... I realize you have a KM210 from the C53a, but others reading this will need to confirm the arm shape and design before they go to town on removal. I almost completely installed the pin and later discovered the arm I though was correct, was not. Not even sure how that happened, but it did.

Just bend the lower shifter arm to match the mirage shifter arm, and fine tune with the shifter adjustments and/or shifter base, done.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

This is one of those questions, ask a dozen people and you will get a dozen different answers. I have a write-up in the archives about swapping the levers but the pics are probably dead. I have also used a bolt and locknut with no issues and that way is a thousand times easier. Just depends on what you want to do.

IMO removing the pin is just too much of a pain and like Tim said, you could destroy something. Bending the arm sounds like another route although I've never tried it. You could apply heat with a torch to make it bend easier but I'd cover the seal with a cold, wet rag to keep from over heating it and damaging. Last thing you'd want is a leak there.

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=32779

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I did the pin. It's not too bad if you have the tranny out of the car. Actually I dont know if you can do it with it in the car. Oh and you would have to do that twice, once to remote a colt arm and one to remove the DSM arm. I then tapped the arm and pin hole in the shaft and use a bolt to hold it all together.

I have also bent it with some vice grips.

Welding sounds like fun. A new hole with a bolt and nut is probably the easiest.

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05 wrx wagon
99 Benz ML 320
91 eagle summit swapped - 6/4 bolt combo
94 Audi s4 - sold
88 Eagle Vista Turbo LX sedan, RIP

I like the sound of the bolt and nut! Make it a nylock! wink wink.

First time Ive hear that one-and i love it!!


i ususally reweld them where I want them-but Im a nut!!

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Current
95 Mirage AWD - "HoboEvo" 1008 awhp 9.5@165
08 535ix 420awhp
06 C6 Z06- 600whp NA

Pics aren't showing

Any archive posts from a few years back, that don't have pictures, likely has a tag with the old gallery linked to it. The Gallery went down and we couldn't resurrect it.

Try PM'ing 89Mirageman and see if he still has those photos kicking around.

They might be somewhere on my photobucket account. I pretty much refuse to even bother with photobucket anymore, that site always makes my computer do crazy things. Maybe I have too many pics on there or something, not sure.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I used DSM non 90 cables and trans bracket with stock turbo csm shifter. Cables are alittle long but shifts properly now.. Its not an f5m33 issue, its a 90 vs 91-94 style issue.