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So i've done some reading and I'll go ahead and explain my situation first as its a little different.

My 16g turbo mixes oil to coolant and the other way around...The freeze plug was popped out and so i had it put back in etc.

Since the turbo worked and worked fine with this issue (only really ran it one good time then i noticed the oil had about 1/2 quart of coolant in it) would it be fine to just route the cooling lines in like a circle to catch the oil and then plug the coolant lines on the engine?

I've done some reading on some dsm sites saying they've ran 16g water cooled turbos without hooking up the coolant lines and had no issues as long as they let it idle for a min or two before turning the engine off/ or installed a turbo timer.

I've replaced the oil cooler on the car which was toasted, and before that replaced the head gasket which seemed to be fine already. So now the only thing i havn't replaced is the turbo which i dont really want to down grade to a 14b etc. since this one has like no shaft play etc. at all and it works just fine.

I spose i could leave the coolant lines un plugged on it and see if i lose any oil out of them to be sure when i run the car as well, just to be 100% sure thats where the mix is happening. Just wanted some second opinions on this idea/thought before i started to do this.

Worst case i figure i destroy the turbo, which if water froze in it to pop the freeze plug the metal inside probably has a crack in it already making it non rebuildable anyway right?

Has anyone ever rebuilt a turbo to confirm that the only way they could mix oil and coolant is from a crack?

Whats worst case scenario? just destroy the turbo? I've never rebuilt one or taken one apart, so i dont know what to expect.

I may still just remove the turbo anyway, but if i were to try getting it rebuilt can I use something as simple as a trashed 14b and just put all the 16g stuff inside etc. or anything like that? sorry if it sounds dumb...lol which i personally kinda think it does, but like i said I know like nothing about rebuilding turbos etc.

Any and all info is welcome, or other ideas as well.

Thanks,

Ben

Pretty sure the turbo sections are completely separate for oil and water, and the only way for them to mix internally is with a crack or fissure that develops between the two compartments.

You don't want to lose pressure in the oiling system in the turbo, because you need flow and pressure to keep that barrier film working to allow the turbine shaft to survive for any length of time.

If the center section is damaged, it's done.

^^^^^ I agree, there must be some crack in there inside the center cartridge. Also, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you should be fine running without coolant lines. My 13g is running without coolant lines, and I have heard some people doing this as well, without issue. The extra idle time is insurance.

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

That's a great question to ask Justin over on tuners.

I personally wont be running water lines on the 16g Colt.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

cool its as i suspected, i actually pm'd somone off of facebook who rebuilds turbos and he flat out said the issue i'm describing would b me having to get a new bearing housing. offered to rebuild and replace what was trash for 320 plus shipping...spose i might go that route lol sux.

He is basically confirming our suspicion then, and only intends to replace the center cartridge. For that price, couldn't you get a new turbo?

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

lol see thats what i was thinking...thats like the price of a new turbo, I spose the real question I need to know now is if I could use a junk turbo to replace parts with or if one that had shaft play would be junk too for what i need.

If you can find a donor center section, and then do a rebuild, sounds like a way to say a few bones.

*edit* I am in the same boat, so to speak. I have a 14b in good shape, and all I need is the exhaust housing without cracks, in order to use the turbo.

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

hmm do you by chance have the numbers off of that turbo handy? I've just checked mine and wrote them down, then for fun googled to see what i could find and they are 49178-01 with 03 indented followed by an 0 and from what i just read, its not a 16g at all even though it says tdo5h, its just a 14 b (told u i was a noob and was told by a friend years ago it was a 16g) leave it to me to take him for his word alone LOL. does that seem right to u guys too?

On the compressor, if the blades are all the same length it is likely a 14b in your case. If the blades are alternating short tall then it is likely a 16g.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

right on, when i get to taking it apart i'll look just to see for sure. thanks for the info and replies guys, as always the info helps tons.

What about the oil filter housing? Is it water cooled or air cooled? The water cooled housing fail quite often causing fluids to mix.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

Yes, that is another source of awesome. The center threaded portion can back out and or get over tightened and cause the appropriate problem for each condition.

I was not aware of the oil filter housings having ever been water-cooled....this is a first hearing of it! That is very interesting.

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

It is a sandwich plate that was added at the factory.

I want to say that 90's got oil cooler assemblies that sat in front of the condenser/rad, and 91+ saw the sandwich plates installed between the filter and the OFH. Either way, it is the two options they came.