4g61t.org

im kinda frustrated with my colt, i have had many similar engine setups in the past, this just isnt working. the car pulls very strong at 10 psi, 10.5 to 1 afr (maf translator a few clicks lean) its about 230ish hp. it has 2.5 exhaust and fmic, walbro190 rewired. this combo should max out the stock injectors very quickly, and make around 300 crank and ive ran this same mild setup many times in the past and loved it.

problem im having is any additional boost is just causing a decrease in power. i retarded the base timing and that also does nothing.
i know what most would say, you need link, yeah i kinda just wanted to run a mild setup for this year. you shouldnt need link to run 15psi.
maybe i have a faulty knock sensor?

My guess is the knock sensor
Check your knock sensor make sure its not a gooey mess

are you using anything to log with? that will tell u if u have knock.. and also 10.5 is a lil rich.. and 230hp is better than my 173hp lol..


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

naw, i got nothing to log with. i used to have a pocketlogger setup thats long gone. but a guys gotta assume its knock holding it back. the only code from the ecu is speed sensor. that doesnt cause it to go into limp mode?

I would try datalogging it and see what's what. You could be getting phantom knock and that could be causing it to pull timing and be sluggish. I'd also try to use something a little better than the MAF translator to tune, like adding a S'AFC or something, just for now.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

yeah. i suppose its pretty hard to figure it out with no tuning tools. i noticed it has a rattling sound coming from the engine area at 4500 rpm or so, this is probably causing the knock, assuming its not something serious! it sounds like a loose bracket or maybe a clearance issue with something, it has done it ever since the awd trans swap. i had another swap that the piping always rattled and it never caused knock.

i appreciate any input. i know get link haha. not this year. dont need it.
the car is actually faster at 15 then 10, but just feels 40 hp short of what it should be, even with such crude tuning

obviously my first course of action is to track down the rattle. i am sure it is not engine related. could be a pita to try to figure out too

If you have a spare Cam Angle Sensor through that on. I have a problem like you are talking about for around a year on my 90 talon tsi but I couldn't figure it out. We even replaced the motor assuming it was something with the motor as the car was stock. I happen to get ticked off like normal and bought all new sensors, which the first to go on the car was the CAS and then the car ran like a raped ape (for stock). I never figured out what was wrong with the cas but trash it went. Side note this was a pigtail CAS

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92 Colt GT 4G63t
92 Summit TSI AWD 4G63t Auto
92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Auto DRag CaR
5 X 90 Talon TSI
90 GSX
99 GSX..........31 Dodge 4dr Rat Rod, 67 Catalina, 92 3kgt vr4, 83 Civic,4 00 F-350, 01 Chevy 2500HD
3 KIDS, FUTURE FIANCE, AND CAR ADDICTION

this car also uses a 90 style cas/harness. i unfortunately dont have any extra 90 style ones.
regardless of whether its causing the knock i gotta figure out this rattling sound. i have been ignoring it because its barely audible, i recorded it, but you cant hear it. if you free rev the car its very noticeable. sounds just like a heat shield, of course this car doesnt have those. doesnt matter if the clutch pedal is in or out. this engine does have balance shafts.
i would like to remove the lower engine mounts and free rev it, but im sure that wouldnt impress my neighbors.
i expect my lower crossmember is rubbing somewhere

okay thanks for any input, i concede defeat. i put it on stands(and wheels, cant be too safe) and i removed front accessories, jammed screwdrivers in every close clearance spot i could find between engine/trans and body, no difference. i am convinced it is engine internal. dont know what could cause this sound. i know its a fairly newly rebuilt engine, could have been (most likely) done badly. doesnt burn hardly any oil. i put over 10k kms on it before awd swap, i am sure the rattle came after. maybe the clutch is falling apart? or the flywheel? its a brand new spec clutch and fidanza flywheel. i loctited the bolts

my plan now is to just keep on driving it and ignore the rattle
its barely audible so you really only hear it when your listening for it
maybe if i get lucky it will get worse so i can pinpoint it easier

funny thing is, i went a few years without one of these cars, and it was horrible. i remembered all the good times, forgot about the headaches. now i remember why i broke down and sold my hoard.

Well, I would check all your torques on your undercarriage bolts. Everything from the cross member to k member. My buddy undercarriage bolts started backing out as the previous owner had untorqued them and we never checked them as why would we. That made some strange noises. But I say this as I had a slight tapping noise a while back in the colt. The sound grew over time to sound like a rod knock. My other knowledgeable friends swore up and done I had rod knock. It was just a bolt on the cross member that was a bit loose. Also change that cas as I would put a $1 USD on it that is what is your problem.
Rockauto has them for $121 USD
CARDONE SELECT Part # 84S4403

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92 Colt GT 4G63t
92 Summit TSI AWD 4G63t Auto
92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Auto DRag CaR
5 X 90 Talon TSI
90 GSX
99 GSX..........31 Dodge 4dr Rat Rod, 67 Catalina, 92 3kgt vr4, 83 Civic,4 00 F-350, 01 Chevy 2500HD
3 KIDS, FUTURE FIANCE, AND CAR ADDICTION

Rear balance shaft is not timed correctly.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

really? this makes perfect sense because how the hell has it not gotten worse? ive put on lots of kms since the awd swap, if its engine internal, it should be catastrophic by now

i thought of balance shafts timed incorrectly too, no im not trying to be mr know it all smarty pants, i did consider it, because i changed the timing belt(s) while the engine was out. or, did i? shit i dont remember.
goddamn it now i gotta take it apart again

To be positive you can line up all the marks and remove the 14mm bolt out the back of the block and try to insert a screwdriver. At least that is the way the manual describes it. There is a hole in the shaft and the screwdriver should go in all the way. If its out of phase the screwdriver will only go in partially because it'll hit the part of the shaft w/o the hole.

I'd almost bet my life on it though. The "loose heatshield" sound that you are describing is exactly what it sounds like. I actually picked up a 92 AWD talon back in the day cheap because of this noise. Re-timed the balance shaft and the noise was gone.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

okay. i took it apart and to my surprise, my intake cam was off by a tooth, and the oil pump balance shaft (rear?) was out by a mile, like 1/3 turn.
got it all back together and now it has that lost oomph i knew was missing, but the rattle got worse, or at least i think it did. pretty sure its worse. and it seems to have bumped up slightly in the rpm. its very buzzy sounding.
now that i think of it, it might have been aligned properly, and i just needed to rotate the engine a few times to line it up.
im making all the arrows match the arrows, ive done this many times, im not sure how i can be off, but i need to check the bolt in the block thing now.
thank you so much for your help