4g61t.org

Im sorry if this has been asked before. I have read and read on here and cant seem to find the answer.

I have a 91 colt, with a 1.5. I have almost all of the parts needed to do a 4g63t Swap. I have ordered a left and right equal length CV axles from an 89 mirage turbo. I also have the half shaft from a 1G AWD DSM.

A friend of a friend who has done the swap already is telling me that the AWD DSM half shaft i have (that bolts to the block) is too long and will require me to run DSM knuckles. I really dont want to do that yet. I would like to keep the stock knuckles and hubs for now.

Is this true? Or do I need to run a Colt GT/Mirage tubo half Shaft?

I thought I remember reading that you can trim the axle, or half shaft? If I trim the DSM Half shaft, will it need to be re-splined?

Thanks,

Matt

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... half+shaft
hope this helps I remember it being posted

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91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"

Don't run DSM parts as they don't work or severely compromise and remove any tolerances/play the system needs to work probably.

Get the CSM turbo two piece intermediate and outboard axle shaft. It's been posted that the intermediate is the same from the -1988 and down US C10 turbos 4g32's.

You can't run DSM knuckles, nor should you due to geometry issues.

I need to look seriously to find a spare set of both side for my Colt.
I have understand the EMPI axle's are the best ...

Does someone have a list of part#s for axles that are FOR SURE right from Rockauto or Carquest? Passenger, intermediate and drivers?

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

Hey i'm first on that
I'm not sure if this parts are still in stock in 2014 ...

I ran a dsm halfshaft for a long time. It's the same length. It will work. What it doesn't have is the little cup that supposedly helps hold the seal into the trans although I never had a problem with it.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Pretty sure the cup is only a dust shield that hovers over the seal on the trans.

If the shaft is the same, minus any intermediate bearing alignment issues, that works as Mecha said.

We've seen lots of comparisons to intermediate shaft bearing alignment issues on DSM to CSM and GvR4 parts.

The only real issue with intermediate shafts is the spacing from the block. Some had a factory spacer. Easiest way is to put it in and see if you can spin it by hand, if it binds, space it out with hardened washers. Do that until the shaft spins freely by hand and you shouldn't have any problems. Be sure to use hardened washers and hardened bolts.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Not sure about the intermediate but here you go.

drivers side: EMPI Part # 804064
passenger side: EMPI Part # 803019

The AC delete spacer is available from JNzTuning.net or any Mitsu dealer if you have the part number.

Check at partsbase.org and build the car, AC delete, it will show up where the bracket would otherwise be.

The bolts that hold the intermediate shaft bearing to the block have the proper diameter "shoulder" to aligned the bracket to the block and keep the shafted aligned in the differential with no binding under all situations. I bought the bolts from my local source, RtMRacing, but they are a cheap insurance for knowing nothing is taken to chance. They do have the proper washer setup also.
One other point on the bolts, is that they have a taper right at the end, with no threads, essentially a shoulder, and this is to compensate for the way the holes were tapped into the block. Regular bolts do not accomplish a proper fit because they will be too short for the designed location due to interference before they lock down or they don't have the proper shoulder for alignment.

I have heard of some people using the hardened washers and proper bolt strengths, with no issues to date, but it's a $15 equation that cars making twice the rated factory output should not be taken lightly.

My opinion, due to the fact that I've had enough issues with older Mitsu drivetrains that bearings going or parts binding are the last thing I want to have go under mountain driving conditions or spirited highway use, or other.

If you go DSM shaft pay close attention to its alignment, if your valve cover is level and the shaft is not, ITS WRONG, and will slowly ruin your tranny.The intermediate shaft on a DSM is different from Auto to Stickshift in the area of the bracket where it bolts to the block, the holes are not the same, I learned this the hard way when I was sold a "fits all 1g DSM " intermediate shaft then tried to align and level a custom swap into my hyundai based on that shaft, assuming it was level and inline with the crank. I went to the local speedshop to inquire on the differences and we both learned something new that day when the owner and I sat with a tape measure checking axle shaft output spacing from the crank on auto and std trans in his back room. The automatic differential sits different than the stick. Turns out the auto shaft I was sold bolted on just fine, BUT was crooked ever so slightly. I theorized maybe that was why he had so many issues with those pesky FWDs blowing Diffs, even with the equal length "mod". While those shafts bolted on just fine for everyone, if they got an auto shaft on a stick or vice versa, they cock the bearings in the diff housing in order to fit, and put bad loads on the diff. Beware and be sure of what you put on your car!