4g61t.org

Alright, so i've been spending the better half of the last day looking around for a specific way of torque specs and order for the 4g63t.

I've been looking for the instructions that i've used before in the past, but its been years and cant seem to find them...it was something like torque all head bolts in a certain order to a certain torque spec, then loosen, then tighten to a certain torque spec and follow it with some 90 degree turns... This way worked when i used it, so i was going to try and do it again, but cant seem to find the instructions that i used from back then.

I checked the archives from lilevo, from a repair manual and found:

CYLINDER HEAD BOLT INSTALLATION
(1) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown.
Each bolt should be tightened in two to three steps,
torquing progressively. Tighten to the specified torque in
the final sequence.

sequence was:
7 5 2 4 10 cams here
9 3 1 6 8

torque spec was 110 nm 80ft lbs

So this was for the 92 motor, and i'm using a 91 6 bolt turbo motor. Will this work for what i need? or is there another preferred method...i've looked for quite some time and just cant seem to locate the instructions i followed a few years ago.

All thoughts, methods of doing this, and preferred ways of doing this are welcome as well..let me know what u think.

Thanks,

Ben

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... ue#p290560

hope this helps. This is all I found.

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"

1989 4g61t 65-72 ft/ls in three steps.
65-72 ft/lbs in the link provided above.
65-72 ft/lbs in three steps, in the Galant VR4 1991-92 service manual.
That was the torque across the board, for these motors with stock head bolts.
1993 saw the introduction of torque to yield style bolts, ie 7 bolt motors. Ignore the specs and installation steps for the 1993+.

If you want to torque the head down using the steps below, THEN remove the bolts, clean and relube them, then re-torque the head/gasket again, you can. Technically this is one extra step to hope the head gasket is completely crushed and likely overkill, because taking it down in steps should be just fine. They will be very tight at the end, and recheck the torque with the motor hot (valve cover off), will likely not yield a pinch of movement on your torque bar.

Always use long slow, smooth movements when torquing the studs.

You want to reach each torque reading in a single, smooth, non-interrupted, 90 degree inline movement of the torque wrench. That's about the best way I can describe that.

If jerky motions are used, or going over the bolts 10x but moving past the initial click/click-beep(digital models), you have surpassed the desired clamping force.

Bolt threads in block have to be cleaned, tapped clean ... blow out any and all debris in the bottom also.
Coolant likes to puddle in there, along with all the debris from the head gasket cleaning process.
All bolts should finger thread into the block, with no restriction at any point, short of reaching a depth at which they will not sit, due to installed depth with the head in place.
Oil on underside of bolt head, and washer, not on threads.
If installing ARP studs and are using their friction modifier lube, use their torque spec, and apply lube to threads too.
If you know the friction compensation numbers for different oils on the threads, incorporate that, but only if you have definitive information from ARP (and if applying their studs), this may not apply to stock head bolts due to differing external surfaces in the two products!

Here is the Galant engine manual, load it and go to page 129. 1993 engines used TTY bolts, not what you have in your vehicle.

Click Me

Make sure you have an accurate torque wrench and a 1/2' drive 10mm allen head socket ... or maybe it was a 3/8" drive because the 1/2" wouldn't pass down low enough due to contact with portions of the head castings being so tight in the middle portions.
Either way, it has to fit all the holes. I had issues, and can't now remember which one I used. Someone here will remember this tidbit of information for you, if you don't have the bit already.

But if you got it off already, forget my little story.

very nice info, thanks alot. And yep, heads already off, only to find that the oil cooler was the culprit and not the head gasket.

Bad mixing in the coolant/oil cooler setup? Saw a recent post about that.

I added a bit more to the post above. It doesn't tell you that I edit my posts, because it won't for admin posts. FYI.

Cool, and nope I didn't realize it wouldn't say that you edited, so i'm glad you said something lol.

Also, this is going to be the 2nd or 3rd time these head bolts have been used...factory, first time i did it, and now...chances are the head was swapped at least once before i owned the car too. Think I should go ahead and check for some new head bolts?

I'll clean the ones i have up and look them over of course, just figured i'd ask.

And yep, like a fool i left water in it over the winter, not realizing water would fill the oil cooler and sit there full even when the lower radiator hose was off.
(was clueless at the time that the car even had an oil cooler because i'd only seen the 90's air cooled oil coolers at the time i got the car.)

Theory is that those bolts are reusable, just make sure they have not stretched; IE they thread in proper with finger pressure.

Couldn't hurt to get new bolts if they have been used that many times.

It only takes one to snap or stretch, to ruin your day.

Small insurance to pay up front, and then they can be re-used at least once more if anymore problems or changes need doing with relation to the head.

true, i'll check them over and decide...hopefully i'll get away without having to get new...but my luck isnt all that great like that lol.

ARP studs are not a whole lot more than new stock head bolts. I advise getting them then you will never have to worry about replacing them again

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

question: anyone had head bolts that wont slide out of the head? do i have to pull them tight and loosen them ? is there more threads through the head the bolts have to be twisted/loosened to remove them?

There should not be any threads in the head. The bolts should slide right out

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

thats what i thought...i can put the head upside down and none will come out...they all get to the same point and then get "stuck" any ideas?

I suppose it could be a 7-bolt head without the holes expanded properly

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

Washers on my ARP's always got stuck on the way out. Have to install the washer, then the bolt. Spring seats cause this issue IIRC.

It's finicky getting the bolts in and out. Like Thom said, they should come out, unless someone farbed a mod, but your intake inlets would be a dead giveaway as to what head you have, if they still have the rough casting marks. Ports will look like a 4g61 smaller size.