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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:17 pm 
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Location: Hagerstown, md
Alright, as the title says...I have lots of oil in the coolant...like all of it.

I got the engine into the 4g (4g63t) wired it up etc. I've only ever gotten the car to start off of starting fluid, which i believe it has an intake/boost leak.

So I start the car with no coolant at all in it (off of starting fluid) it ran for like 30 seconds, then cut off as expected...did it again and it ran for about the same time 30 or 40 seconds and cut off. I decided i was going to remove the radiator again to bleed the clutch, and when i removed the lower radiator hose atleast 2 quarts of oil came out...probably closer to 3. there is no oil left in the engine as it sits from what i can tell--and when it ran it didnt sound like it had no oil/knocking etc.

In the past i rebuilt this motor, put it into the talon, filled the coolant with water and then realized the hard starting problem etc. I then decided when the 4g motor went that i'd just swap the motor over for fun and then figure the hard start problem out at that time...i removed the radiator etc, and left the motor sitting in the talon for quite some time...then one winter managed to put it into the 4g...

my question is what are the chances the motor would have enough water left in it with no hoses connected that the leftover water inside would freeze and crack a water port next to an oil port for the oil to travel through...? no freeze plugs popped out or anything.

Today i got the head off completely...no obvious signs of a head gasket leak, and though i havnt really cleaned the block or the head i didnt notice any cracks.

If it was just a bad headgasket, would it have to be pretty noticeable to move this much oil into the coolant? or because there was no coolant in it, it would make it easier to force oil into it? I put the motor in complete as i pulled it from the talon. so its doubtful that any coolant lines were hooked up as an oil line around the turbo.

Is there any place that the block could crack and allow oil to steady leak into coolant areas to make it to the radiator? when i pulled the head and disconnected a heater hose running to the fire wall, oil also came out of that.

Basicly, after i clean the head and block up, if i see no cracks or damage at all, where would u guys start looking first?

Any and all info, ideas, thoughts are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Ben

Edit: also when i removed the motor from the talon i drained the oil, and it looked fine...even seemed to be the full 4 quarts... and thats after running it with water as coolant in the past...so there were no problems at that time.


Last edited by ben4g63t1 on Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 667
Location: Indianapolis, IN
two possibilities:

1. Turbo center housing cracked allowing oil into coolant lines
2. Water jacket oil cooler cracked (more likely)

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:36 pm 
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Is this a 91-94 engine with the water-cooled oil filter housing? If so I'm betting your problem is in that area.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 4:51 pm 
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Location: Hagerstown, md
I think you are right, been talking to thomcasey in pm's and it sounds about right...and even by disconnecting the radiator hoses, it would still leave water in that line going to it...dam, tore the head off for nothing....but atleast i'll have the gaskets to re-do the whole intake. I suspect a leak for the hard starting issue.

in a little bit i'm going to go inspect more, but on another note, oil leaked slowly from around the filter too, it never used to and i figured there was a small hole in the oil filter because its dented a little from sliding the motor across the field in a sled...lol had to improvise at the time, and this was about a year or so after i had already removed the radiator hoses etc.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:40 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
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Location: Wisconsin
Ditch the water/oil cooler, plug the lines. I had the same issue and got tons of oil into my coolant. Luckily oil pressure>coolant pressure so none of it got into the engine.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:46 pm 
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Location: Hagerstown, md
So after pounding a screw driver through the oil filter i was finally able to get it off...the oil cooler did freeze/swell and then bust. It split and ran behind the filter, so the filter sealed for the most part, but leaked oil from it a little at a time...dripping...but the oil was able to be pumped up the tube and into the lower radiator hose.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 9:04 pm
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Location: Hagerstown, md
Quote:
Ditch the water/oil cooler, plug the lines. I had the same issue and got tons of oil into my coolant. Luckily oil pressure>coolant pressure so none of it got into the engine.

So if i plug the lines it wont harm it to just ditch the cooler all together? If thats possible i may consider it...I was actually thinking about posting a WTB to see what kinda price i could pick one up off of a member for lol...thought maybe someone would have one laying around collecting dust.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 667
Location: Indianapolis, IN
I haven't run cooler for years

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
To do it "right" you'll also need a 90 turbo water pipe. Then you can take the small water line off that bolts to the front of the engine block and you'll have to cap off or plug the nipple on the t-stat housing as well. You can also run a short piece of rubber hose from the nipple on the bottom of the water pipe to the smaller water pipe mentioned above and kinda loop them for a quick fix. Glad you found the problem, now get that thing running!

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:38 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
I looped mine as mirageman stated until I picked up a non-turbo water pipe that had no nips.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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