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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:03 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Good ideals! The fuel pressure stays at 38. I'll open and check the fpr out, I just assumed since pressure was steady it was good. I'll also clean the fuel filter out and check the return line. I'm still waiting on the spare ecu's from a buddy to test. Yea thanks, I didn't think possible hydrolock would cause the dead like battery symtom.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:01 pm 
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CSM Junkie

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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Yea, it was the gas amount in cylinders causing it to appear as a dead battery. Removed plugs and removed gas and reinstalled it cranked beautifully.

Ok now thats resolved.. I'm still flooding bad in all four the cylinders. Enough to come out the exaust mani.
Oh, the hose from fpr to intake mani has NO fuel entering via hose.

I already tried the second set of injectors. No luck.. Very low chance that another set of injectors would all leak.

A buddy had two spare ecu, I tried and no luck. Still floods

I'm going to pickup a coolant temp sensor today.


Just wierd after the starter being replaced, the CTS would go bad? I've never had one go bad before.
Would the CTS just go bad suddenly? I've read upon trying to start it floods bad. Is that true?

After the first time with this issue, i changed new plugs and oil. I had a good 2.5 QT of gas in oil. Would a bad CTS dump that much fuel?

Really stumped.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:38 pm 
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The happy administrator
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When the CTS goes bad, it tells the ecu that it's really cold (-40* or something like that) so it dumps gas in. This will cause really long cranking times due to flooding. They usually go bad over a short time, you just don't notice it until the car won't start as quick.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:53 pm 
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CSM Junkie

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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Ah, hopefully that's it. I'm going to pickup one now to try.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:48 pm 
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If you have a datalogger, you can hook it up and check the coolant temps. If they show an absurdly low number, then you know the CTS is bad.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:53 pm 
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CSM Junkie

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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
New CTS and fresh charged battery was just put in. It cranks great just doesn't start, it seemed died.again for few seconds. I go.check plugs and cylinders are filled... I'm guessing this is preventing starting over.

I'm out of ideals..

new CTS
good spark, new plugs, new wires
Tried different ecu
different injectors

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:05 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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I've never seen a condition so bad from a CTS being uplugged or so resistant that the ECU thinks -40C, that it fills the cylinders to hydrolock but it would soley depend upon how long our user is cranking the motor over.

Plugs should be irreparably fouled at this point.

I want to say ECU driver is short circuited and has created a situation where the injector are held wide open while a CAS signal is received by the ECU.
But I see that you said the ECU was switched for another.

As Tonus said, invest in a $30 datalogger setup ala Palm Pilot models, B&W or Color LCD.
I have a Palm IIIxe, it has a B&W screen and replaceable battery pouch at the rear.
Palm IIIc that I used to use was color, but I let the batteries sit too long, internal type and they died.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:56 pm 
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Does the car have a stock FPR, or is it an aftermarket adjustable one? Try pulling the vacuum line off the FPR and crank it or prime the fuel system. See if gas comes out of the FPR itself, then you know the diaphragm inside is broken. Does it hold residual pressure after you're finished cranking it, or does it drop right away?

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:18 pm 
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CSM Junkie

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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Jegs fpr, it Holds @ 38. Very very slight hair drop while watching when key is on position. Vacuum line pulled has no gas coming out of it. I'm gonna try find another palm pilot to log maybe help.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:08 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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It seems the only thing you haven't tried changing is the FPR. Swap it with a stock 4g63t FPR, which are fairly easy to find and pretty cheap. Just my 2 cents.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:54 pm 
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Have you removed the CAS recently by any chance?

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:27 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
I haven't removed the CAS. I've only had it unplugged. I can try a stock rail/filter, but I need to find adaptors. I'm running fuel lines to and from the tank with AN fittings.

You mentioned fouled plugs. When I first noticed the gas /oil problem, I removed/replaced the plugs.

The new plugs have'nt been ran with yet, they've only gotten wet with gas. They would'nt be fouled from getting wet, right?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 3:42 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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That is how they foul.
Too much fuel, add spark.
They might be toast, they might not.

A serious overfueling issue, has to be sorted and quickly or you will do serious damage to the cylinder walls, oil, bearings, spark plugs, etc.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:57 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
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Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Thanks..Yea, i didn't drive like this. This just happened out the blue. after the starter changed and two days rain. I changed plugs and oil right away. These are new plugs, never ran on.. Just cranked , and wet from flooding. Definally need to.change oil again, but need fix flooding first or i'll ruin oil again. Just stumped lol never had a problme like this before. Bad timing to happen

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:18 pm 
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What would cause injectors to stick open like that? Maybe a short somewhere like the PTU or resistor pack.

Would a clogged FPR or return line cause your injectors to leak? Do the injectors leak before you even crank the engine? Such as after you dry everything out, and then put it back together, and then just turn the key on, or do they only leak when you crank?

Have you ever tried to pull the CAS off the head, connect it up again, turn the key to the on position and then rotate the CAS by hand? You should hear the fuel pump and the injectors click open/close.

Another thing you could try is to connect 12V to the pump test plug to see if the injectors leak with just the pressure.

Good luck!

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