4g61t.org

I would try another ecu.


Nobody has hydrolocked from it, it just floods the motor. Went through that once and once was enough, 5+ minutes of cranking with it floored before she'd start. Replaced the $6 sensor and instant fix.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

CTS wiring gets seriously brittle, and an open wire will be a signal to the ECU that temp is "apparently" really cold.

Ohm out the sensor with a DVOM (multimeter), if it's in spec for the ambient temp range, even boiling the sensor dangling in a pot of water, and rechecking for the sensor in range will confirm its function compared to the book spec FSM's at lilevo.com, and you can start checking wiring.

There is a wire fan out for 4g61t's on the lilevo site, and it will give you a pin location to check from up to the sensor, one maybe two wires to check.

Sensor or wire broken during removal/install.

I had to re-pin mine during the epic tear-down and electrical rebuild process.

Even put in two layers of heat shrink so as to not be back there again if the connector is ever jostled around.

He already tried a different ECU

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

Resistor pack going bad? There can't be too many things that would cause this.
32* - 5900 ohms
68* - 3500 ohms
104* - 2700 ohms
176* 300 ohm

When the sensor fails, it cuts to "default" which is -42* which causes an approximate 40% richer condition.

This is why I got rid of my iac/etc and cut out the cold idle code in ostrich.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Thanks everyone for the replies. Sorry it's been raining alot.(I have a garage for 2 1/2, but my trucks in there because apparently my village is anal if you dont have valid plates which I switched my veteran plates to the colt. The rest the garage is messy.)


Anyways, update..

Unplugged the CAS and resistor. Cranked and no fuel enters Good to know my 2nd injectors and fpr are good. No guel enters fpr vac line while.cranking

Plugged CAS and resistor and cranked, it flooded..So its eletrical.

I'm gonna try a different ecu and check all wiring. Hopefully tommorrow the rain finally goes away.

I have spark from wires and plugs. when cylinders are dry i crank and doesnt attempt to start.

I'm guessing so much fuel. So for 2nd time ill change oil and crank with resistor unplugged to circulate oil to build compression and try starting..

I hope to figure this flooding issue soon

_________________
Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!

OK, sorry for the long delay for the update... Ok so after couple days of figuring out why it wouldn't start. We changed the spark plug order and tried starting with starting fluid and resistor pack unplugged. It started so we plugged in the resistor pack and it started. The colt idled and wideband read good 13.6ish. Anyways we went for a test drive and adjust settings. All of a sudden hit the gas the colt wouldn't move. we noticed fuel pressure was bouncy and would drop as soon as gas was hit going down to zero. We turned off the colt to think as we were parked. About five minute later I started car and pressure and everything was good. This happened to me maybe twice before this whole problem happened. I'm assuming its the pump.

Anyways we drove it back home to park. I tried starting it, but took awhile to start so I just left it. A few days later I tried starting it and it filled with gas so I sucked out the gas and waited a couple days it only cranked. Today I tried starting with starting fluid again. IT started so I plugged in the resistor pack. It started, and I was going to take for a test drive to end street for gas, but It wouldn't idle on its own and it was rich 10.2ish.. No matter if I put it -30 on the safc. I turned around at end the street and parked it in driveway. I tried starting again, but it only cranked.. It was late so I figure I would try again tomorrow.

The weird thing is this happen to me before. And after my friend came we noticed the spark plug wires and reconfigured them and it ran, idled and was good on the wideband, its like daja vu.



I'm so stump I've never had such problems before, lol. I'm really considering selling, but apart of me holds on to the colt. I have spark all cylinders. I have air, I have fuel. You would think it would start right away. It just takes a long time cranking.

I cleaned the fuel filter and FIC rail. Nothing clogged. I'm assuming the walbro is on its way out ? after sitting a good year and a half in storage. But that wouldn't explain the hard starting and rich.

_________________
Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!

what engine is this?

also if u move the settings on afc to -30 at the low rpm setting.and it doesnt change.. it sounds like its not connected correctly.. might have a loose wire somewhere..

as for the fuel pressure issues. its hard to do anything but guess at this... first I would say check all the rubber lines for bends and cracks.. unhook the return line from the pressure regulator and try to blow thru it to make sure its not plugged.. if all lines are good and return is not plugged up then u need to check the FP relay (big gold box near ecu..or by radio not sure where yours is mounted). it might be turning FP on and off if its bad... if its good then I would replace the pump.



Steve

_________________
Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

Ok, first sorry for the long delay in response to this posting. Thanks for all the quick replies, I love this site! On to the problem, well when I had initially checked the ecu I seen no leaks/black spots. I went ahead and tried another ecu, but the problem persisted so I assumed the original ecu was good. This whole time I kinda smelled a coolant type of smell. mind you I have never had a bad ecu before. Anyways upon rechecking the ecu after I was about to give up on the colt. I noticed one of the capacitors had leaked and a small spot around the area was moist/black. I went ahead and put a rebuilt ecu I obtained from a friend and she instantly fired up. Now I have some things to check and work on still, but she's been driving good for a few weeks now. I know 1G capacitors are weak compared to 2g ones. With never having a bad ecu and this ecu came from my original 90,000 mile talon it looked cleaned!

Again thanks for all the replies, It turned out to be the ecu. It had a leaky capacitor.

_________________
Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!