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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:52 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:07 pm 
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CSM Junkie
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Noticed you are running 90 style throttle-body. The top two vacuum lines should be run into each other. One of the lines looks like it is missing on the top, could cause a huge vacuum leak. the two vacuum lines on the front side of the throttle-body need to run into each other too.

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1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:14 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:23 pm 
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Hi again guys..just had a chance to upload a couple of pics and a short vid.tell us if you notice anything off.You can hear the turbo surge between the gears too,im still not running a bov it should be on the way from the u.s i purchased an origanal oem item to get as close standard as possible till i get rid of these bugs.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:58 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:49 pm 
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Looks like generic rubber caps on the top two vacuum ports on the TB. Check for cracking rubber and put a zip tie on each one to keep it tight. When you hit boost, the air inside the TB pushes back on them!
Also, looks like someone has cancelled the two side ports on the TB. What happened to those port fittings?? How are they sealed off?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:07 am 
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Im not sure which ones you mean.on the top theres only one and thats got a rubber cap on it.has someone got a clear pic i see two outlets on other puctures but mine has only one and is capped off with arubber plug.
This is driving me nuts


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:31 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Here is a pic of a complete throttlebody.
Image

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:20 pm 
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He's got a crate Cyclone motor and that's s JDM TB. One vacuum hookup! I have that same TB downstairs. It makes sense now. I'm hoping the vacuum canisters are all intact and the solenoids are working properly too.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:00 pm 
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AAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhHHHHHHHHH?!?! :-?
can you elaborate tim??!?!? whats a crate cyclone motor???it a jdm motor as far as i know that what it said on the paperwork anyway!!!!!!!
does the throttlebody have to be exactly the same if i replace it??!?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:04 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Don't freak out, he's just saying you have a lot of places that you can have a vacuum leak.

When was the last time you replaced the TB gaskets?

Try this, go to the auto store and get some vacuum caps, then cap off every vacuum port on the intake and see what happens. If it idles fine, then you take off the caps one at a time (and reconnect the hose that goes there), starting and running each time until the problem reappears, then find the leak from there.

If you cap everything off and it still idles high, then you're looking at a possible:

Leaking intake gasket
Leaking tb gasket
Leaking egr gasket
Cracked intake (unlikely but possible)


Any idea on your fuel pressure?

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 5:09 pm 
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So, after installation of the BOV and piping, idle and driving are almost completely unbearable. Stalling more than driving. I suggest that there are some issues.

To answer the questions to his PM.
Quote:
There must be an improper vacuum line hook-up happening.

Here is a shot of a Talon engine bay, the BOV is tilted just behind the factory air can. You can see the BOV main vent hose aimed directly to the long skinny hose that is routed into the intake snorkel as it goes into the turbo - aluminum side of the turbo.

Image

I will see if there are any good shots of how mine is setup.

Here is mine, the BOV is tucked onto the pipe going right up into the TB elbow. The vacuum line is going to

Image

When no manual boost controller is installed, this is how your vacuum lines should be hooked up. Follow the lines to exactly the correct locations. Any difference in their locations can be VERY problematic.

Image

IF for some reason you do not have the little nipple on the intercooler hard line, here is another diagram of how alternatively you can have the vacuum lines hooked up for the wastegate and BOV.

Image

Words of advice from a rather capable user over at galantvr4.org (these are the cars that originally had the Cyclone intake manifolds in the first place).
Quote:
"The upper part of the B.O.V. MUST AT ALL TIMES be connected to a vacuum/boost source behind the throttle body that has full engine vacuum when the engine is at idle.
Essentially a port off the intake manifold, behind where the injectors are located, is likely best and is the factory location for this.

I'm wondering if some of the rest of your vacuum hoses have any issues. BUT, let's see how you have your BOV installed and where the vacuum line was routed to.
There could be a bad BOV, but it shouldn't act this way, necessarily. Time for a little sleuthing.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:10 pm 
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When looking at that TB pic,on the left side there is a green cover with 2 screws.Under that cover is the cold idle valve.There is a plastic ring that the copper bullet sets against that backs out over time causing a hi idle all the time. Just take the cover off and screw the plastic ring back in. Then put a drop of paint on the threads to stop it from backing out again. If you screw it in too much it won't idle high when cold.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:23 pm 
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hi people,got it running again,it wasnt the bov that was the problem theres a sensor just above the turbo pipe that leads to the air cleaner(dont know what its called theres so many of them!)that came loose when we were installing the piping,i noticed the day after i was taking a look.
bov works fine now the only problem is im still getting the stall when at normal running temp:((,so the bov wasnt the case.
managed to purchase a used tb complete with all sensors including isc,havent tried it yet,dont know if i should change the whole thing or just sensors one by one to see if i find out which is the damn culprit.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:32 pm 
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Quote:
When looking at that TB pic,on the left side there is a green cover with 2 screws.Under that cover is the cold idle valve.There is a plastic ring that the copper bullet sets against that backs out over time causing a hi idle all the time. Just take the cover off and screw the plastic ring back in. Then put a drop of paint on the threads to stop it from backing out again. If you screw it in too much it won't idle high when cold.

can you explain this exactly,i cant seem to see it i the pic.
thanks for your reply


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