4g61t.org

Alright so, I've just procured an EvoIII turbo complete with water and oil lines, and EVOIII 02 housing.

Here is the list of equipment I currently have installed:

4g63t
264 regrinds
14b
1G exhaust manifold
1G O2 housing ported by SBR
2.5" exhaust
90 1G Eprom ECU keydiver chipped
- 7800 RPM
- Modified 1G AWD code
- Extended fuel map 15+ PSI
- 10.5:1 WOT AFR
- PK code
- Octane gear shift reset
- list goes on
2G MAS
Jon Reimer (M&S Recycling) Starion Intercooler modified switchback short route
Stock FPR
Stock 4g61t fuel pump re-wired
Stock fuel rail, filter and lines
Stock replacement C53a radiator - small dual size neck on top
Lower Shores Manual Boost Controller


Here is the equipment I now have lying around:

16G EVOIII
PTE 780cc injectors
Cyclone dual runner intake manifold
Walbro 255 HP GSS341
Aeromotive 1000 AFPR
SAFC II
Innovate MTX-L wideband (module in gauge setup)

Additional equipment I have to install:
HKS 264 intake cam
HKS 272 exhaust cam
Evo8/9 beehive valve springs
Evo8/9 titanium spring retainers and keeps

If the head comes off:
Evo8 sodium filled exhaust valves
DSM backcut and polished intake valves
ARP 1G head studs

Things I am looking to purchase:
RTM Racing for lots of hardware for the turbo/manifold/gaskets, some has already arrived Feb. 2013
EVOIII/2G exhaust manifold - ported at turbo mating area Feb. 2013
Hydraulic hood prop modification x2 (ongoing)

Eprom chip - Broke4speed will be helping me out on this front, so this will help with the chip build.
The better we know what MAPS we should start with, the easier this will be to tune, and also how much the maps should be tweaked.
EVO 3 bin file - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dsm ... O/EVO%203/


Looking for cheapest way to install at a minimum, the turbo and related gear to run the EVOIII at factory boost levels, if not just above.
Want to install the cams, and spring equipment at a minimum, valves if the money is there and they spec out okay, and to work them into the head also.

I've never had anything other than stock 1G DSM 14b related parts installed thus far, so I am trying to grasp all that is needed to make this work.

Should I upgrade to an EVO type MAS? Stay 2G MAS? Which one is best for chipping to? EVO3 MAS is a 609, 2G MAS is a 609, I have a 609

Being as this will be chipped, what map should fit best to start from?

Head gasket? Stay composite? ARP studs to be used. I'm not tearing into the stock bottom end for decking to mate to a MLS.

Stock boost for EVOIII? 0.7 bar = 10.15 PSI, 270 HPish factory output

Boost creep? Port which portions? Area around wastegate flapper if staying internal gate (yes), and 02 housing outlet only?

Any point getting an 18 PSI DSM waste gate ($50 US) from FP?

BOV need upgrading? I'm using a stock uncrushed 1G BOV, need to know what size/flow is needed for proper recirculating/relief; 38mm? Stock BOV is XXmm?

Down pipe angle at o2 changes, just need new flange angle? or new flange for the downpipe altogether?

Meagan Racing make a downpipe for fitment to DSM's with EVOIII turbo and o2 housings? Found that I will need a 2G housing ported? to mate to the DSM downpipe flange I have now, or weld on a flange for the larger bolt spacing of the EVOIII 02 housing studs.

I know I have a bunch of searching to do, but I have not had my head in swapping parts related to the turbo system for a VERY long time.
If someone wants to quote this thread and add in between the lines, it would help immensely. If there is particular reason why, for each addition between the lines, feel free to elaborate.

I'd stick with the 2G MAF, it'll flow a ton of air. The EVOIII 16G is a good match for it, IMO.

Your stock maps will be good to start, and will probably only require some tweaks when you get the WBO2 installed. MAF-based systems are great to tune, they're very adaptive. I can pull some of the values out of that EVO 3 file, but the maps are much bigger in it than in the 1G DSM stuff, so it wouldn't be an exact conversion.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

As for the block, dont bother replacing the head studs or gasket if they are both in good shape and you have no issues related to it. Stock 6 bolt composite geadgasket and bolts have seen 450-500 and beyond on many cars at high boost levels. Im pretty sure the E3 16g wont be pushing it that hard.

As for the bov, you could modify the stock one via the dodge garage mod. The 1g bypass valves have been able to hold 30psi with the mod.. depends on if you get surge however with the 1g bov and the evo 3 turbo. Chances are you'll probably be ok.

Wastegate, no need to unless you really plan on pushing it upwards of 30 psi. In most cases ill see people having issues blowing the flapper open still and they wire the wg flapper shut to keep the higher boost levels...

What would be the benefit to changing ECU's and what would work with the 90 wiring setup?
Is this still the case of the odd duckling, whereby you really need to start with 91+ wiring and sensors?

From what I gather, there's no point to swapping to the EVO3 ecu, since it involves some pin-swapping and harness adapting. There's tuning info available, so that part isn't an issue if you decide to go for it though.

I'd say just stick with your current ecu, unless you're really interested in duplicating the EVO3 setup. The extended maps in your chip are better than the EVO3 mapping range anyway .

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

No real point. You can swap i believe 2 pins on the 91-94 ecus to make it work with 90 style electronics, im sure the same goes for the evo ecu but there might be more wires to swap? In any case it can be done without cutting the harness, just simple pull the locking tabs out of the yellow ecu connector and then slide the pin out and swap it where-ever it needs to go.

Id personally stay with the stock ecu you have an just socket/chip the ecu. At that point you have tons of options for engine management. You can run dsm link if you choose to do so, or jackal speed density or custom chips...

Hi Tim
What is your power goals ?

Well, I have to be realistic and keep my drivetrain alive. KM210 transmission with those lovely weak single fuzzy syncros.

I read the EvoIII at ~10psi, in stock trim was 263-270 Bhp, I assume this is the measurement at the crank. I would be really happy with those numbers or maybe pushing to the 300HP mark. I have to admit that I know nothing of these power levels; ie some people spray their intercooler, add NOS, run seriously high boost and max out their turbos flow. I just want a reliable setup which hauls pretty good. I don't need low 12 seconds times slips or another slipping clutch. Heck, I jut realized I may be pushing the limits of the newer full face ACT 2100 sprung clutch setup I have installed if I do push the turbo. Suffice it to say that the power of a stock EVoIII would make me smile ear to ear. I have a bunch to learn, as I have been playing it very safe with the power levels on my engine, and now want to see what the tuning side is all about.

This is my biggest reason for asking the site members for help, as they are my best resource!

If there is anything I should do or add to my list of parts, feel free to jump in.

Clutch and turbo at that boost level will be perfectly safe and fine. Hardly stressing anything on that motor or setup really.

You could do this on stock 450cc injectors probably and not have to worry about breaking anything.

I ran an evoIII on 680's at about 22lbs. Probably pushing them to their limits but the burnouts at 60mph were oh so sweet. FYI, the stock real evoIII, straight from mitsubishi, wastegate opened at 16lbs for me. Judging by airflow numbers, I was making around 240 at stock wastegate and around 300 at 20lbs. Your setup will be fine.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Looking into rebuilding the timing side of the motor.

Can anyone tell me if the "OEM Timing Tensioner Arm" is the same between the 1.6 and 2.0 motors? and 1.8?

I have a replacement that saw one season use and should not have the usual divot where the tensioner rod tip pushes against. That new piece was on my 1.6 motor before it was pulled apart.

MD130031 for the 1.6
MD170402/MN119896 for the 2.0
According to CAPS anyway. Not sure what the differences are, but the part #s aren't the same.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

It's the same for the 1.6 and 2.0, don't know about the 1.8.

get the walbro 255 HP *high pressure ... if you are a stickler for a quiet fuel pump get the regular 255.

both will flow 400 WHP easy.\

dont even bother with a 190.

Added Walbro 255 HP to the parts list, as I googled the part number. GSS341

Okay, here's a funny question. I looked up spark plugs for an EVO3.
They come with BPR7EKN (7738) plugs, dual ground setup.

Now I was wondering if going to NGK Iridium BPR7EIX is best, or sticking to BPR7ES copper (as I have now), or trying the stock EVO3 plugs the BPR7EKN with dual ground electrode arms. BPR7EIX or $7-9 each, BPR7EKN seem to only be available mainland Europe, but I'm sure there are some landed in North America.

Some guys here and on other sites say Iridiums cured a few of their problems and they run better with it, but assuming no issues, I have always had great luck with the copper BPR7ES (one range hotter than stock).

Iridium ?
Stock EVO3 ?
Copper ? (tried and true)

Side notes:
Looking into a hydraulic prop rod mod x2 for the engine bay.
Also, anyone think an EVO8 ECU worth switching to ???