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alright so my water pump is fried. I tried taking off the timing belt cover to replace it but the crank pulley wont fit past the wheel well to get completely off so i decided to rip the engine out and replace all the seals, intake manifold and the water pump and take that damn A/C compressor off... i plan on smoothing out the intake runners on the new manifold and cleaning up the exhaust and turbo outlets... my questions are..............

THE CAR: 91 mirage sedan, 4G63 swap, FWD, E3 16G turbo, 1G intake manny etc.....

1. is it easier to remove the tranny or leave it attached when removing the engine?
2. i have all appropriate seals ordered and penvoil syncromesh fluid... am i going to need anything else?
3. I am working out of the auto shop on MCAS Miramar and have every tool imaginable... is there any specialty tools needed?
4. should i just smooth out the intake runners on the new stock 1G intake manifold or port them out slightly? (one of my 4 bolt holes (bolt that holds the throttle body to the manifold is stripped) on my existing intake manny has no threads)
5. should i remove the turbo and exhaust manny before removing the engine?
6. this is my first ever time removing an engine and me and a girl who has no clue about cars are gonna be doing it... any tricks of the trade????
7. am i getting myself in over my head???

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95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc

few things.... its easier to remove the trans...but it can be done with it attached.(i do it all the time) but as this is your first time.. i would seperate them... just watch when u pull it away.. dont just drop it down..watch how it needs to rotate clockwise for the back of the trans to clear the rear subframe piece.... in return when u put it back on.. u need it at that same angle.. lift it up.. rotate it counter clockwise before u push it to the block.(hope that all made sence)..

2. I wouldnt worry about the runners unless its a fully built motor..I personally think its a waste of time..but thats just me.

3. u can leave the motor complete..ie: turbo with manny..and intake manny still connected when u remove it.

4. my fav lol.. if you take off the driver side motor mount..(make sure there is a piece of wood under the oilpan)..and use a jack to support the engine...then unbolt the trans mount from the frame rail.. (the 4 bolts u get to from by the pass side tire).. then lower the jack so it pivotes on the front and rear mount..it should drop the motor enough to get that pulley off.. if not then u can jack up under the trans to achieve this angle... once that pulley is off u can jack the motor back up to where it is sitting even.. or a lil higher on that side to get to the water pump easier...its kind of a teeter totter game here (which is why I like this method lol).. lower it to get the bottom stuff..raise it to get the upper stuff..

hope this helps.

Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

When I pulled the harmonic dampner I, (like stated above), used a block of wood under the oilpan with a jack to support the engine; then I undid the timing belt side mount, then undid the 4 bolts that hold the front to back cross member, the only mount i left on was the tranny one. Then I could lower the engine from the driver's side enough to be able to remove that main pully, (and the alternator bolt that I mistakenly put in the from the front).

Installing and removing the engine into the engine compartment is easier if you seperate the tranny from the engine. However, its a pain to install a tranny after the fact too, so pick your poison. Maybe seperate them for removal but then install as one unit?????

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05 wrx wagon
99 Benz ML 320
91 eagle summit swapped - 6/4 bolt combo
94 Audi s4 - sold
88 Eagle Vista Turbo LX sedan, RIP

I may try this but i kinda want to do a full overhaul and rip it all apart and clean it... i also wanna clean up the engine bay too... ill be taking pics and updating my build post

_________________
95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc

I managed to do the crank pulley with the engine in the car but it is a major PITA. I vote for yanking te whole thing and replacing the seals while you're at it.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

If you pull the big center bolt you barely have to move the engine to remove the balancer. I put a brand new one in my car last month in about an hour.

However if you have every tool imaginable, and you want to refresh everything while you're in there:
Just roll a workbench under the car when you're ready to pull the engine, unbolt the crossmember from the floor and core support, and remove the side mounts (near the strut towers). Then raise the car away from the engine. It's the easiest way, and you'll have the engine and trans on the bench and ready to work on. (Tips: Pull the radiator before you try to lift the car off the assembly. It also goes a lot more smoothly if you have some boards to shim up under the transmission and oil pan so it doesn't rock forward. If your bench is too wide to fit between the control arm mounts on the body, use sufficient boards or a pallet under the engine)

I have to disagree. I find it easier to pull the motor and trans together. Undo the Exhaust, unbolt motor mounts, pull axles, unbolt trans mount, wrap a chain between the exhaust manifold runners and intake manifold runners and pull it out. (obviously undo wiring harness)

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1993 single turbo supra
2000 Lexus sc300
2016 ram 1500

no no no.. mom says to leave the harness on there

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

thanks a bunch guys !!! i think ill just feel my way with taking out the engine and tranny as one piece or seperated...

question though??
1. should i take the hood off and use a cherry picker to remove the engine or drop the engine and lift the body up?? i was thinking the cherry picker but does anyone have a solid suggestion from personal experience????????

_________________
95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc

hood off..cherry picker to pull...if u have the tilter piece then angle it down where the trans is lower.. move the engine forward..and trans back towards fire wall..this is hard to explain..but it will make pulling it and putting it in as 1 unit alot easier....when u put it back in... just do the opposite... lower the trans in first pointing at the ps door. engine facing the ds headlight...as u lower it.. u re position it into place.... I think next time I do my clutch.. or pull the whole motor I will make a short video so people can see what im doing..and how easy it is... GL with it and most of all just watch how u do it..adjust to accomidate for fitment.. and most of all.. have fun.



Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

I personally like to pull the engine and transmission together through the hood if I'm needing the engine out. You have to angle the engine side up a bit to get it to work. If I'm just pulling the transmission, I drop it out the bottom by itself. Not saying either way is right, just knowing how many times I've done both, it seems to work best for me that way.

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49 International KB-2
72 Dodge Colt
73 Dodge Colt (Project)
84 GMC K3500
85 Dodge D50 Diesel Swap
90 Mighty Max V6
89 Mirage Turbo
94 Mighty Max
99 Montero

I'm a fan of taking off the hood and pulling the engine/trans together.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

If you want personal experience, I have had a toasty warm engine, fresh from the CSM out on my workbench, at least a half dozen times in the 12+ years I've owned my car (there were other occasions when I took my time and it was cool). I wouldn't even consider pulling it out the top. Heck I don't even think it would fit with my current transmission.

Edit: I always work on my car myself though, so maybe it's easier to remove it out the top when you have a "girl who has no clue about cars" helping.

Ummm, wouldn't you need a lift to do it this way? I agree with it probably being a lot easier, but most people don't have a lift in their back yard.

I have pulled and installed my motor 4 times and counting. Every time was with the hood off, using an engine hoist and load leveler. Once everything is disconnected (check and double check this), you should be able to pull the motor in about 15 minutes. I usually bolt one chain to the tranny mount and the other chain to both ends of the timing mount. This way, the motor can be angled far enough to clear the transmission, like slowdsm had said.

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go fast- break stuff- repair- repeat

yeah i think ill remove the hood and separate the tranny and engine then put it all back in as one piece together... ill post some pics of my progress on my build page. I cant start it till next weekend because of the place being closed on labor day and i work all week... thanks for the input guys it's really apreciated

_________________
95 Mirage S Sedan- Evo III Project {In Process}
91 Talon TSi AWD- SOLD
91 Mirage 4dr 4G63T -Daily
2016 Ford Edge Titanium -2L.0T AWD Wife
facebook.com/modicausmc