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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:12 pm 
This may be an old thread, but I'm sure many of us have this "clicking instead of starting" issue.
Well this has been bugging me for years, but is most annoying when the Colt is in line at the drag strip but I shut down to not incurr extra heat; and then I can't restart to move up-sheesh! This has seemed to be more prevalent since I swapped in '07 and went to a smaller battery, first odyssey then braille. I thot maybe not enuf current is getting thru, but we checked everything.
However this year I'm determined to fix all the annoying issues with my car and this was at the top. I took out the starter and went to a local rebuilder and got a NEW solonoid and had the starter checked. Not sure if anything was done to the starter as I paid cash(no receipt), but even if its only the new solonoid that fixed this issue, I'm pumped! Also the bolt closest to firewall was mia, so maybe the starter was not aligning properly and the current available would not overcome the slight misalignment.

Anyway, NO more clicking and the 4g63 turns over much faster, its like booster cables are attached(well almost,lol). So I would say to all experiencing this, try a new solonoid!

Now on to the itermitant idle/stalling and tach not working :(


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:42 am 
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I still have the click issue myself (extremely annoying), I haven't really figured it out yet, if I jumper the starter tho it starts right up, I think the factory remote wire is just too small or they tied it into the alarm system that it has. To much of a rats nest for me to dig into it at the moment though. I have also noticed if it sits there and turns really slow or clicks a lot the battery ground wire gets very hot, I believe it has even smoked a couple times.. Not sure if that's normal or not.

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:52 am 
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How are your ground wires guys? After 20 years, wires corrode inside and end up with tons of resistance (get hot). You need at least 3 ground wires for optimal performance. One off the trans near the starter, one off the intake by the coil pack, and one off the block itself.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:31 am 
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Nice, I didn't even think about the other grounds. I'm pretty sure I do not have a ground by the coil pack (unless you're talking about the one on the tb cable adjuster), and my tranny ground could probably use replacing. I'll try those and see how it does. Where is the one on the block located?

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:45 pm 
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Quote:
Nice, I didn't even think about the other grounds. I'm pretty sure I do not have a ground by the coil pack (unless you're talking about the one on the tb cable adjuster), and my tranny ground could probably use replacing. I'll try those and see how it does. Where is the one on the block located?
Im having kind of the same problem on my car. Since i hardly use the car, i have a battery tender on the battery to keep it nice and charged. When i first crank the car with the tender still plug to the battery, it starts up with no problem ( sometimes )... I drive around town for a bit and every time i have to start up the car, is very weak. Is like the altenator is not chrging battery, but my volt gauge and turbo timer reads that the altenator is charging.. So i dont know whats going on! The battery is located in the back and i have about 5 or 6 ground wires.. Even have a ground wire from battery negative to engine block.. New Battery, started and altenator!

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2.0,Wiseco 9:1 piston,0.20 Manley I beam,stock crank, GSC S3,Precision 6268,FIC 1450,FMIC,Ecmlink v3,Fwd Stage 2 Sheptrans


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:45 pm 
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Quote:
Nice, I didn't even think about the other grounds. I'm pretty sure I do not have a ground by the coil pack (unless you're talking about the one on the tb cable adjuster), and my tranny ground could probably use replacing. I'll try those and see how it does. Where is the one on the block located?
Add one wherever you can, three would be a minimum but the more the better.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:52 pm 
Quote:
Quote:
Nice, I didn't even think about the other grounds. I'm pretty sure I do not have a ground by the coil pack (unless you're talking about the one on the tb cable adjuster), and my tranny ground could probably use replacing. I'll try those and see how it does. Where is the one on the block located?
Im having kind of the same problem on my car. Since i hardly use the car, i have a battery tender on the battery to keep it nice and charged. When i first crank the car with the tender still plug to the battery, it starts up with no problem ( sometimes )... I drive around town for a bit and every time i have to start up the car, is very weak. Is like the altenator is not chrging battery, but my volt gauge and turbo timer reads that the altenator is charging.. So i dont know whats going on! The battery is located in the back and i have about 5 or 6 ground wires.. Even have a ground wire from battery negative to engine block.. New Battery, started and altenator!
Get a new solonoid, I bet that is your issue! Then get back to us :D


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:30 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Nice, I didn't even think about the other grounds. I'm pretty sure I do not have a ground by the coil pack (unless you're talking about the one on the tb cable adjuster), and my tranny ground could probably use replacing. I'll try those and see how it does. Where is the one on the block located?
Im having kind of the same problem on my car. Since i hardly use the car, i have a battery tender on the battery to keep it nice and charged. When i first crank the car with the tender still plug to the battery, it starts up with no problem ( sometimes )... I drive around town for a bit and every time i have to start up the car, is very weak. Is like the altenator is not chrging battery, but my volt gauge and turbo timer reads that the altenator is charging.. So i dont know whats going on! The battery is located in the back and i have about 5 or 6 ground wires.. Even have a ground wire from battery negative to engine block.. New Battery, started and altenator!
Get a new solonoid, I bet that is your issue! Then get back to us :D
Ok cool, ill tried that and see if it works.. I was also told to connect the ground wire that i ran from the battery straight to the started, i dont know if that would work or where is the ground wire on the started....

_________________
2.0,Wiseco 9:1 piston,0.20 Manley I beam,stock crank, GSC S3,Precision 6268,FIC 1450,FMIC,Ecmlink v3,Fwd Stage 2 Sheptrans


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:15 pm 
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The problem is the ignition switch mounted behind the ignition lock assembly.

Mine is doing the same thing. Jumping a wire to the starter and the car starts right up.

If you pound on the ignition switch with your hand it should work.

Many times when you turn the key you either just hear a click or no click at all. There's also a small philips head screw that holds the switch to the ignition assembly. Mine was loose.

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 10:08 am 
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Location: Seattle, WA
I ended up doing a push button start. Turn key then push to start. The momentary starter button from Jegs is simply wired to a 12v source tied into the starter solenoid. Done and done, racecar.

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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