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Regarding step 9 of the 1G DSM VFAQ Timing Belt change - http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Is this step necessary?

I've changed my timing belt before and never needed to do this. This step is also not suggested in the original manual.

Thanks.

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90 4G63BT LANCER GSR Cyborg, 14b, KM206, Xtreme XHD Clutch
92 4G61 LANCER GSR

Speed Thrills, Hesitation Kills!!!

I welded up two bolts to extend an old alternator? through bolt so that enough thread would be there to compress the auto tensioner. I also had to thread another 1"+ with a die cutting into hardened bolt material (not fun with a small die holder! What you are doing by installing the tool till it stops (the auto tensioner is fully compressed and the tensioner arm is grounded to the auto tensioner body), is making sure that the correct amount of movement is present in the system and that earlier in the steps you are also putting pretension on the belt. 1 - the belt is designed to have pre-tension of a slight amount <2.03 ft/lbs and the auto tensioner takes care of itself; if the auto tensioner were to fail, they have designed the belt drive tension system well enough that under non-racing type situations you just might not even know it was not working properly but most likely won't pop your valves (ie timing jumps teeth).

I had to make a tool to guesstimate what pretension I had on the timing belt before letting the auto tensioner do it's thing; can you imagine a tool for putting the spin on the autotensioner pulley without the mitsu sanctioned piece (well two door handle pull rods, some fibrous book binding tape, and alot of pretensioned pictures helped there). Essentially withought knowing what tension (other than by feel - not loose - belt had no obvious sag/slack and was not seriously over tight by any means - not easily quantifiable though ) this step with the long threaded rod is best described as your way of knowing that the correct tension is put on the whole belt system and that the auto tensioner can function as designed.

Why does it matter? Shouldn't it be fine so long as the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body fall within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.)???

I also find it strange that the original manual has no reference to this procedure or the special tool MD998738.

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90 4G63BT LANCER GSR Cyborg, 14b, KM206, Xtreme XHD Clutch
92 4G61 LANCER GSR

Speed Thrills, Hesitation Kills!!!

I see what you are saying, but it's just a good matter of course that one can take. It took me a while to wrap my head around it, everything the first time is kinda hard for me without diagrams, pictures, people reading from the manual - makes me wish I was a kid again. SIGH

Yeah being a kid was fun!!!!! I miss the feeling of excitment i used to get when I was a kid. A sack full of presents at xmas used to do it. These days only hot women and my 4g63t under boost come close...

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90 4G63BT LANCER GSR Cyborg, 14b, KM206, Xtreme XHD Clutch
92 4G61 LANCER GSR

Speed Thrills, Hesitation Kills!!!

Thats funny as hell, but its damn true. there is a special tool you can buy for the auto tens. i believe it is 64$. where from i dont know, a local dsm guy has one and lends it out to whomever needs it

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IF Nismo means Nissan Motorsports wouldn't Homo mean Honda Motorsports??

Alright, if we have anything more to add it must be on topic. Thank you guys.

Your exactly right, if you measure that distance there is absolutely no reason to use special tool MD998738 since it just measures the same thing except in rotations and not millimetres!

BTW - my Hyundai Shop manuals all detail the use of the screw-in tool and specify it should be 2.53 turns. I'd like to know how you are gonna measure 0.03 of a turn with just a bolt head for reference!

The Colt factory manual I have does mention MD 998738. The rotation measurement is 2.5 to 3 turns (written 2.5 - 3 turns). Your manual either has a misprint or you have read it wrongly.
MD 998738 is nothing more than a 8x1.25 mm bolt, 75 mm long. You can easily make one from such a bolt by filing the hex down (if necessary) to take a 10 mm socket or open-end wrench, and rounding off the tip at the other end by grinding or filing.
Since the pitch of the tool is 1.25 mm, the 2.5 to 3 turns corresponds to the specified clearance of 3.8 to 4.5 mm
Another special tool, MD 998752, needed for torquing the tensioner pulley, can also be made cheaply. If anyone is interested, contact me by email.
Incidentally, if you need to replace the auto-tensioner, a pricey item, try your Hyundai dealer instead of your Mitsubishi or Chrysler dealer. It's the same thing at about half the price. Ask for one to fit a 1992 DOHC Hyundai Elantra

Correct me if I'm wrong here but, wasn't there more of an issue with the Hyundai belt systems, throwing their belts more frequently than the CSM/DSM variety. It may all just be in the maintenance, and it could just be another one of those rumours following cheaper made cars that just needs to be dispelled.

I just use a pry bar, push down on the arm and get abuddy to stick in a small allen wrench. done and done.

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92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

That is BS IMO. The only 'problem' I have with the Mitsubishi derived Hyundai drivetrains is that Hyundai use cheap Korean made "KBC" bearings and Mitsubishi used Japanese made Toyo bearings in general. Once you get a set of Jap/German bearings in the Hyundai trans they are as good as a Mitsy item.

"2.5-3 turns" makes alot more sense. I think maybe someone made a typo when they were plagiarising the Mitsubishi manuals.

When tensioned I’m assuming the small holes inside the tensioner pulley align horizontally? Is this correct?

Check pic - http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt5.jpg

It's a little confusing as the manual says align vertically left, but this seems impossible as the belt is under no tension on the left and then over tensioned on the right. I think this is talking before the belt is installed.

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90 4G63BT LANCER GSR Cyborg, 14b, KM206, Xtreme XHD Clutch
92 4G61 LANCER GSR

Speed Thrills, Hesitation Kills!!!

Yes and yes, the little holes were aligned vertically when I got it in there and following the tensioning, they were aligned ____ almost horizontally. Confirmation for ya.