4g61t.org

Your bov is a pos. It may not be making your noise, but it is certainly leaking. I wouldn't pay too much attention to what you are flowing. Your maf is likely not dialed in, and in all actuality it does not mean squat what you are flowing. People put too much emphasis on airflow. All that really matters is if your fuel mixture is right and if the car gets faster. Dsmlink can be tuned multiple ways to reach the same result.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

Why is my turbonetics raptor bov a pos?

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Because the design is a pos, all turbonetics products are a pos and it won't hold any real boost. There is a reason why you don't see anyone use their stuff.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

I'll do another boost leak test and see if it leaks. I keep blowing the blt apart. As for the tune I have a buddy tuning it He used to work at Jacks and has a pretty nasty 1g talon with an hx35

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Well, good luck. I won't even elaborate on jack, any of his current employees or former, or any shop in general. Kevin is the only one who is talented enough to be trusted.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

Fount out what the screaming was and why it wouldnt build more than 20 #'s. Blew the gasket between the manifold and turbine housing. I think I'll order an fp 68hta while I got it apart

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Sure sounds like a waste of money to me. You can get, and already did, more turbo for the money than that. That is a total waste of money to spend that much for such a small turbo. I would never give my money to FP. Far to overpriced.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

What would you suggest steven? I want to keep my existing intercooler setup and exhaust. The 68hta is supposed to flow 47#/min

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Finish more supporting mods. Keep what you have. You already went backwards once. Learn the car and turbo and work out your bugs. In a few months if you are bored then step up. I would not worry about making just a baby upgrade. If you want to play, be serious about your decision. If you want to haul ass, haul ass. If you want baby turbos, stick with them. Save yourself the disappointment and don't get the hta68. After riding in one, it fealt just like any other 16g car.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

Reason why i want to replace the turbo is it started leaking oil again from the feed line adapter. The threads aremessed up. Guys have gone 10s on the 16g so im happy with this size turbo. Maybe a 20g?

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Those times will never happen in colorado without a big boy turbo. Again, your money is better spent elsewhere. A 20g is not enough of a jump either. You can get more powerful boltons for cheaper. The 20g would be reliable though. If you are wanting to go fast, quite fruit and banana around. 60lbs/min or more, or keep the 16g crap. If you are going to have the lag, might as well have the punch to support it.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

I read about a guy on here in denver i think it was dragsomthing he went 10.9 on a 16g 4g61t so dont tell me it cant be done on a small turbo. I dont want a 2000 rpm window like your landspeed holset car. I drive it on the street and i was impressed with the lil 16g @ 20 #s. @30 psi it should be nasty.

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Bobby went 10.9 with a PTE 5031. Not.a 16g. Hemicolt has the best 16g time to date in the state. He went 11.6@119. And that was in our super light csm. I don't care what you see or read, a 16g car is not fast. Especially at altitude. The few that have been fast are max effort cars by talented long time racers. Not even our group has been able to knock out times like that. And my friends and I have a ton of experience. The only reason it feels fast is it is your first turbo car and might be able to out run what your f-body was doing. But I assure you, a 2600lb car with 225-250 horsepower is no where close to what bobby and davis ran. I know I am heavily opinionated, but I have been racing since I was in high school and been racing mitsubishis for 13 years. I know what it takes. Find someone with a 60lb/min dsm in colorado springs an run them. You will see what fast is. And find someone with a T3 or smaller bolton and you will see how useable to power bands really are.

Like I said, if you want a 16g, keep the 16g. If you want to go fast, nut up and get serious.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

A 16g car CAN be fast but at a mile in the air, you're going to need something a bit bigger to run the same times or faster.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

I hear what you guys are saying. Ive already built the car up around the 16g so it will stay for a while.

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods