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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 11:31 pm 
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trying to replace the oil filter housing gasket on my 89 mirage but there is not enough clearance between the wheel well and the crank pulley to remove the pulley...i read that some people suggest removing the crank bolt at the same time to get the pulley out and thats what i did during my swap but will that require me to redo the timing belt?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 1:01 am 
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It should not require a timing belt adjustment/removal/install due to the crank pulley being removed. It bolts direct to the crank timing gear, and as such when removed, leaves the gear untouched and inside the plastic timing covers, with the belt and associated hardware never being touched. Yes, it is a pain to get that bolt lined up with the hold in the frame (they do not line up on any 4g6x equipped car, with the left side frame rail hole, unless you adjust the engine/mounts accordingly. Loosed the main snout crank bolt before setting up to remove the four small bolts that hold the pulley to the crank gear.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 1:29 am 
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ive gotten the 4 bolts out that hold the pulley but the pulley does not have enough room to be removed. the large crank bolt in the center is too close to the wheel well to allow the pulley to be pulled out. The only way i was able to get the pulley out before was to remove the large crank bolt as well as the 4 pulley bolts and remove both pieces


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 5:26 pm 
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Yeah, it could be an easier job, but not on the engines from this era, in certain car chassis's.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:18 pm 
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Yeah, it could be an easier job, but not on the engines from this era, in certain car chassis's.
ya I just forgot if removing the crank sprocket bolt would cause me to redo my timing. I realized the notched shaft should still hold everything in place so ill be ok to remove the bolt correct?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:28 am 
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Yes, the woodruff key keeps the actual crank timing pulley in place. Just make sure the parts all separate and aren't stuck together when you start pulley it all apart. They have a severe tendency to chemically bond/friction fit due to torqueing/normalizing after use and this leads to having to fuss with all the parts at removal. As if people don't have enough to do when they are at that step, only find that out.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:56 am 
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Yes I always use a bit of white lithium on metal to metal contact to prevent this. Thank you


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